1998 k2500 454 getting hot

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454cid

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There's either a problem here or there is not, and if there is, a high flow pump won't solve it. He's said it's registering 200F at the thermostat, which is about normal, so the thermostat seems to be doing it's job.

Also, I've never had an issue with the system needing to be "burped". I fill it and run it, and then check it again later.
 

Frank Enstein

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1998crewcab

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There's either a problem here or there is not, and if there is, a high flow pump won't solve it. He's said it's registering 200F at the thermostat, which is about normal, so the thermostat seems to be doing it's job.

Also, I've never had an issue with the system needing to be "burped". I fill it and run it, and then check it again later.
The high flow water pump and thermo worked wonders for my truck
I went through same with original water pump and thermostat
Changed it out to higher flow system
Truck is much happier

After installing OEM parts and same results/ problems where it would creep at stop lights

Actually, once the thermostat opens it gobbles up more coolant with filler
It’s the best 20 dollars spent
Especially if you have cars with aluminum heads
You don’t want to run those with low coolant
You can YouTube videos
No need to check coolant cause it done right the first time .
 

454cid

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The high flow water pump and thermo worked wonders for my truck
I went through same with original water pump and thermostat
Changed it out to higher flow system
Truck is much happier

If the stock engine requires a high flow pump to stay cool, there's something wrong. The thermostat maintains an engine temperature by limiting flow. He's already got the proper temp at the thermostat, so no more cooling is going to take place by adding the potential for more flow..... the thermostat will limit it.

After installing OEM parts and same results/ problems where it would creep at stop lights

Mine will go up a bit, by the dash gauge, at lights, but I've also been running without my fan shroud.

Actually, once the thermostat opens it gobbles up more coolant with filler
It’s the best 20 dollars spent
Especially if you have cars with aluminum heads
You don’t want to run those with low coolant
You can YouTube videos
No need to check coolant cause it done right the first time .

With the 454, I see no reason to spend $20 on a piece of plastic when I can just top it off later. I will ALWAYS check, no matter how much I think I did it "right the first time". Not checking work is how things get forgotten or screwed up.
 

Supercharged111

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2 things: 1 as mentioned before, a 4 core aluminum radiator will be inferior to the factory 2 core (not 3) radiator. Aluminum doesn't transfer heat as well as copper/brass, but it is stronger. Where it gains its advantage in cooling is the ability to make much larger individual cores which increases the surface area. The other thing, and I suspect it isn't a thing if you're 200 at the intake, is how plugged is your AC condenser? Mine was absolutely FULL of dirt and crap, so I pressure washed it in both directions and an appalling amount came out. If you got a cheap beater, it's likely seen some mud and ignorance so check that out. Back in May I swapped out my trans cooler for a bigger unit and look what was still behind it.

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I run about 20k GCW and the truck has never overheated. It ran about 210-220 (bumped laptop off of gauge) climbing back to CO from OK with a sweet cross wind that really made the truck work in the 100 degree heat. The stock cooling system is very capable, but I still think I'm going to add some hood louvers.
 

1998_K1500_Sub

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The thermostat maintains an engine temperature by limiting flow. He's already got the proper temp at the thermostat, so no more cooling is going to take place by adding the potential for more flow..... the thermostat will limit it.

Filling in some blanks here...

There are two coolant circuits to consider, and one pump.

The first circuit is within the engine (and heater, if equipped). When the thermostat's closed, the pump circulates coolant within the engine circuit, where "higher flow" promotes more temperature uniformity wherever the coolant flows (block, heads, intake,... heater). I assume the OE pump design / operating RPM is adequate to meet GM's design objectives for temperature uniformity. However, a "higher flow" pump will reduce whatever non-uniformities exist in this circuit.

The second circuit is through the radiator and flow in this circuit is gated by the thermostat. The thermostat is immersed in and registers the temperature of the engine coolant circuit and, when the engine circuit's temperature exceeds the thermostat's rating, the thermostat opens and allows coolant to flow, as it exits the engine's circuit, through the radiator's circuit where it exchanges heat with the air, lowering the coolant's temperature before it returns to the pump.

The issue in the OP's case seems to be that the ENGINE doesn't have uniform temperature throughout. Increasing the flow in the engine circuit will make the temperatures more uniform, more-or-less regardless of the thermostat's operation.

In all cases, the pump's total output is directed into the engine circuit. What varies is the source of the pump's input, which depends on the thermostat. Thermostat closed: All input to the pump comes from the engine circuit. Thermostat open: The pump's input is a mix of flow from the radiator circuit and the engine circuit.
 
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