1998 k2500 454 getting hot

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1998_K1500_Sub

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You dont set timing, you set the cam/crank offset. The pcm handlea.the timing.
Thanks for mentioning.

I put my scanner on and realized the distributor was a tooth off( -22.5°). Had the mechanic pull the distributor and correct it to get the timing set to zero.

In light of @454cid's post, what would change if the distributor was a tooth off? The rotor might not align well with the intended post on the distributor, but the ignition timing is otherwise unchanged, yes? Isn't ignition timing based on the crank position sensor, and the ECU uses the cam position sensor (in the distributor) for other purposes like injector timing / sequencing, and others?
 

Supercharged111

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Thanks for mentioning.



In light of @454cid's post, what would change if the distributor was a tooth off? The rotor might not align well with the intended post on the distributor, but the ignition timing is otherwise unchanged, yes? Isn't ignition timing based on the crank position sensor, and the ECU uses the cam position sensor (in the distributor) for other purposes like injector timing / sequencing, and others?

This is correct. It's hard on the cap and rotor if it's off, but it'll still fire when it's supposed to.
 

yevgenievich

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doubt it will be much of use, but here is main spark advance table for 98 454
You must be registered for see images attach
 

Supercharged111

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They have alot more PE spark than a 350 from memory. 5-7° IIRC.

I sure hope so! Granted they don't want as much timing as a 350, but that's still coming up a little light. May explain why they're not seeing the advance they want.
 

newguyinnc

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Well, mechanic cut one of the cats off to gut it and the previous owner has already done so. New ECU on the way. If that doesn't do, I'm going with the engine builders recommended mechanic.
 

454cid

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Well, mechanic cut one of the cats off to gut it and the previous owner has already done so. New ECU on the way. If that doesn't do, I'm going with the engine builders recommended mechanic.

I'd go with the new mechanic now.... no need to throw more parts at it. Get it diagnosed and then fixed.
 
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