1997 SCSB 1500 (Build in progress)

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zraffz

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Hey all, my truck and I have a long history of love and hate. Long story short, in 4 years the truck has spent more time sitting in my driveway than it has on the road. Totaled once, got a total rebuild (frame is from a '88 1500, panels are from tahoes, suburbans, and 1500's) - did a body lift while it was apart; year or so later it got smashed up in the woods and was taken off the road in the beginning of the summer of 2010. Over the past year all I did was replace both fenders, doors, and grill; decided to fix all the dents and I had the urge to rhino line the entire truck. I had such a blast with this truck. I've killed more deer than I can count, ended up in several people's backyards at very odd hours of the night and many other stupid things that I will not mention.
As it stands the only things still from the factory in 1997 are the dashboard, steering column, pedals, drive train (except for the rear axle), seat, antenna (lol), door panels and the rear window (which will soon be replaced anyway).

Day I got it:
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Body lift:
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I do not have any pictures of the first accident when it was totaled but I have one picture of the passenger side after the second accident in the woods...
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From there the truck sat a year, it needed ball joints, all the front end bushings, tie rods, front axle u-joint, and a rear... not to mention I hated the body damage.

About 5 months ago I got the random urge to fix the body damage. The fenders, doors and grill are off a 1997 Suburban. I decided to rhino line the body rather then set up a place to spray the truck (my experience at painting a truck was minimal and always looked like garbage).
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As the truck sits today... needs another bed liner coating :ninja:
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As of today I ordered upper and lower ball joints for both sides, tie rods, upper & lower control arm bushings, and a 6" RCX lift. Over the 4-5 days while I wait for parts I'll be taking the suspension out.

It is throwing a code for cam/crank sensor timing (P1345 I believe). It never threw this before it sat for 1.5 years, I did however take the cam sensor out and start it before I saw the code... maybe I messed up putting the rotor on or it did actually jump timing; either way an easy fix.

Next purchases will be tires/rims (37"/6 lug front 8 lug rear black steelies) and later on regearing to 4.56's. I'd love to do an 8.1 but I have too much money tied up in other projects at the moment.
 

zraffz

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When do you expect it to be all back together and running?

Uh the front and rear will be apart by Sunday afternoon as long as it doesn't rain a lot. The lift will be in Monday or Tuesday along with all the other parts. It should be lifted by Friday --- at the latest. Sometime in the following week I'll have to look for tires that I want to purchase.
 

Southern Pride

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Very nice I also have the ultimate love/hate relationship with mine and I'm very biased to black gm400's :evillol:

I'm running Toyo MT 37's and if you really want the best all around tire then I must recommend them. The Nitto Trail Graps are also very hot right now.
 

zraffz

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Well yeah, within the next week it's going to be lifted a total of 9". I'm just waiting for the lift to come in.
As far as drivetrain I am undecided. It really depends on how much I spend on rebuilding my Trans Am and how much I am willing to invest into a truck that is painted with rhino liner lol...

After this week the truck will not see any more goodies until the car is done. After that I might spend more on the truck. Really would like to do an 8.1 Vortec or maybe even an LQ4/LQ9 but I doubt I will ever do either.


as far as tires go, I've been throwing around the idea of military tires because of the deal I can get on 4 new 37x12.5. They are none belted but the truck is only getting driven locally.
 

zraffz

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After work I got a little bit done, nothing much I can do until I go buy a 35mm socket to remove the axle nuts. Torsion bars won't come off the keys so I plan on removing the crossmember they sit in and then pounding the bars out with a BFH.

In other news, I stripped a lug nut on the passenger side so I disconnected the caliper and am going to remove the rim/hub in one shot.

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I decided to not waste $70 on a torsion key compression tool. I didn't trust my big c-clamp to do the job while my face was anywhere near the torsion key, bolt & retainer. I wouldn't suggest doing it this way unless you are confident. (24mm socket and floor jack)
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sewlow

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You GOTTA get that truck off those cinder blocks. If you start pounding on the truck with a BFH, those things are gonna give out. They will just collapse, & turn to dust. Really DANGEROUS.
 

zraffz

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You GOTTA get that truck off those cinder blocks. If you start pounding on the truck with a BFH, those things are gonna give out. They will just collapse, & turn to dust. Really DANGEROUS.

I'm aware, I have a jack on the front cross member as well.
 

Swims350

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the blocks are only ONE of his worries or problems using a socket and such to unload the t-bars, not wanting to WASTE money? so I guess safety and your body are just a waste too? I'm all for saving money and new ways but come on the parts stores rent the things I bet to use.

The blocks wouldn't be so terrible if they weren't leaning with the back end higher and such, and that jack under the front aint gonna help a huge lot if it trys to come off the blocks, it can rock to either side.

I'm glad it's worked for you so far just be careful hate to see anyoe get hurt working on a truck, or doing something they enjoy doing like myself and others.
 
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