1994 Sierra 1500 stalled in road and won't start

[Schurkey]

getting the individual parts mentioned above wasn't an option and the only option I had was to get an entire distributor.

You could get a distributor, but not a cap and rotor??? Doesn't seem reasonable.

I watched some YouTube videos and I ended up changing it out. I have a feeling I missed something or didn't understand what I was watching. I was careful to take note of where I took out the old distributor and I placed the new one in the same position.

Connect a timing light, have someone crank the engine while you verify proper base timing. Don't forget to disconnect the one-wire timing connector before you start, and re-connect after you've adjusted to "0" which is TDC. You'll have to disconnect the battery to clear the code this sets.

First of all the truck still didn't start. But I went to check for spark and now there is a spark leaving the distributor. Before there was only a spark going to the distributor and nothing leaving.

I'd be looking for failed plug wires and/or fouled spark plugs...AFTER making sure the base timing is correct.

You HAVE looked at the injectors...right? Are they spraying fuel when the engine cranks?

I would still need to adjust the belt to the right timing and I don't totally understand that part.

Neither do I. There is no "belt" that adjusts timing. There's a timing chain and sprocket set that maintain camshaft timing; there's the rotation of the distributor housing that adjusts ignition base timing.

 

[Hipster]

If you removed and installed a distributor it's possible it's off a tooth or two. They don't normally just drop right into the oil pump driveshaft on the right cam tooth. You'll still might get spark off the cap towers but for an adjacent cylinder. When you get lost it's best to pull #1 plug and verify top dead center compression stroke and that the rotor is pointing to the tower for the #1 plug wire.

4 cycle the piston comes to the top twice in one cycle. Once on compression stroke and one on exhaust. Make sure it's top dead center compression stroke and the timing mark on balancer should be on zero.

I normally spend a little time putting one in. Even getting a long screwdriver and turning the oil pump drive shaft a bit so it drops in where I want it. You can drop one in off and adjust timing or start moving wires to get it running but it can throw off distributor phasing.

 

[RawbDidIt]

Just did this on my vortec, post number 16 on this thread is my write up for how to install the distributor correctly. Make damn sure you're TDC on the compression stroke. I'm guessing you don't have a boroscope, so you can also ensure you're on the compression stroke by only installing the spark plug on cylinder 1 and as you get to the timing mark it should get harder and and harder to hand crank the engine, otherwise you're on the exhaust stroke and need to crank the engine one more full rotation. The only difference between my write up and your process is to disconnect the harness that Schurkey mentions. I don't know where it is, but there's tons of info about setting timing in this forum, and tons of videos for finding that harness in YouTube, just search for "TBI timing" and you'll find it here, "Chevy TBI timing" on YouTube should pull up what you need.

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/to...&share_fid=40934&share_type=t&link_source=app

Sent from my SM-N976V using Tapatalk

 

[imkwuzn]

First of all merry Christmas and thank you to everyone that came back to help after I got everyone mad.

Another long story short, I live on kauai and getting the individual parts mentioned above wasn't an option and the only option I had was to get an entire distributor. I watched some YouTube videos and I ended up changing it out. I have a feeling I missed something or didn't understand what I was watching. I was careful to take note of where I took out the old distributor and I placed the new one in the same position.

First of all the truck still didn't start. But I went to check for spark and now there is a spark leaving the distributor. Before there was only a spark going to the distributor and nothing leaving.

I think I must not understand something or something is still wrong with the truck... obviously. My thought is I'm wondering what I am missing. Maybe someone could help point me in the right direction from here, if I gave enough info and they have any thoughts.

I would still need to adjust the belt to the right timing and I don't totally understand that part. But from what I understand the truck should still be able to start. hmmm I dont have a clue now. I imagine I miss-understood some advice and its probably my fault but hopefully there is still some hope.

Hi Simon, Merry Christmas!
When you pulled the old distributor out, did you first pull the cap off and make a mark on the firewall or something on the engine to indicate where the rotor was pointing? If not, it’s very likely that you might be a tooth or two off. Normally, I like to use a wax pencil or a piece of tape and marker to mark the location of the rotor tip to the body of the distributor and something on the firewall. (It’s easier to bump the key and get the rotor pointed where you want it first.

If you have spark at the ends of the wires now, and fuel spray in the throttle body, the only reason it won’t start would be the timing as others have stated. You will need a timing light to verify the base timing. There is a brown wire somewhere near the distributor or back of the engine on the drivers side that needs to be disconnected when checking/setting the timing also mentioned above.

You might try rotating the distributor housing a bit in each direction to see if you can get it to start in case you’re off a tooth.

Good luck!

 

[thinger2]

First of all merry Christmas and thank you to everyone that came back to help after I got everyone mad.

Another long story short, I live on kauai and getting the individual parts mentioned above wasn't an option and the only option I had was to get an entire distributor. I watched some YouTube videos and I ended up changing it out. I have a feeling I missed something or didn't understand what I was watching. I was careful to take note of where I took out the old distributor and I placed the new one in the same position.

First of all the truck still didn't start. But I went to check for spark and now there is a spark leaving the distributor. Before there was only a spark going to the distributor and nothing leaving.

I think I must not understand something or something is still wrong with the truck... obviously. My thought is I'm wondering what I am missing. Maybe someone could help point me in the right direction from here, if I gave enough info and they have any thoughts.

I would still need to adjust the belt to the right timing and I don't totally understand that part. But from what I understand the truck should still be able to start. hmmm I dont have a clue now. I imagine I miss-understood some advice and its probably my fault but hopefully there is still some hope.

I think you need to reset the distributor.
we call it "stabbing the distributor"
The engine needs to be at top dead center (TDC) on the compression stroke of the 4 cycles.
Not the exhaust stroke, that will make it "180 out" which means the rotor is 180 degrees from where you need it to be.
If you look at the end of your distributor, you see a "tab" that goes into the oil pump, and a "helical" or sloped gear that meshes with the gear on the camshaft, looks like this

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At the other end, you see the pickup which looks like this

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Notice how the "arrow parts"align?
What happens is that, because of that sloped helical gear on the end of the distributor. as you pull it out of the block, the rotor turns but the cam doesnt.
But, it wont seat all the way in untill that "Tab" in the end of it locks into the oil pump.
But the oil pump turns very easily so a little wiggleing and cussing makes the distributor drop in but, you end up "off a tooth"
which, if you are at tdc will look like this

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Notice how the "arrows" dont line up anymore?
Once you "restab" it. you need to set base timing by disconnecting the distributor wire.
set it to 0 degrees at TDC with it hot.
It will start and run with the dist wire disconnected but it might take a bit of pushing the gas pedal to keep it going.
Keep your dist hold down loose enough that you can turn it as it gets warm and keep watching and adjusting the timing.
If its too far out and you ignore it while its warming up, you can fuel flood it so bad it will gas wash the bearings so just just keep an eye on it and adjust the timing back to TDC as it warms
Hope all that helps and if you have any questions, ask away

 

[Erik the Awful]

The old screw driver in a plug wire test for spark doesnt work very well for HEI

It absolutely works with HEI. I've done it many times on my Cadillac. Just be sure and treat the voltage with respect - HEI will light you up.

 

[thinger2]

It absolutely works with HEI. I've done it many times on my Cadillac. Just be sure and treat the voltage with respect - HEI will light you up.

I didnt say it doesnt work, I said it doesnt work very well.
Yes, you can test HEI using the old screwdriver test.
If you know what you are doing and what to look for.
But that assumes that you know where and how to get the spark to jump and many people, especially beginners try that on a rusty exhaust bolt and then decide they have a spark problem.
The 20 buck HEI spark tester allows you to test the wires, cap, coil wire etc and is well worth the money

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

There is a brown wire somewhere near the distributor or back of the engine on the drivers side that needs to be disconnected

IIRC it's a black/tan wire and on the 94/95 years it's behind the glove box below the PCM.

 

[Schurkey]

My favorite type of spark-testers: HEI and conventional ignition, the HEI style has a larger gap (recessed center electrode.)

Available on Amazon and other places.

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[superdave]

Kudos for trying, but dropping in a new distributor is a tough one to get right if you aren't experienced. Most likely it I'd either off a tooth or 180 degrees out. What process did you use to install it?