1994 chevy burban's K1500 Torque converter crack

[Erik the Awful]

Yup, I forgot you're in North Africa. Weld it, send it, pray for it. Field repair is field repair.

 

[seza]

Thank you all guys for your input,
we put it back together again the last step was attaching the cooler pipes only for one of them to break at the flaring
it is the lower one which is steel all the way, it is a pain to get it in correctly, after repeated removal and install, it just snapped - literally,
I am guessing GM put the steel pipe there because of the amount of pressure it need to support?
can one change to a comparable flex hose? what pressure does it need to be at?

thanks

 

[yevgenievich]

Thank you all guys for your input,
we put it back together again the last step was attaching the cooler pipes only for one of them to break at the flaring
it is the lower one which is steel all the way, it is a pain to get it in correctly, after repeated removal and install, it just snapped - literally,
I am guessing GM put the steel pipe there because of the amount of pressure it need to support?
can one change to a comparable flex hose? what pressure does it need to be at?

thanks

Can have a stub of a line from transmission flared slightly and a trans fluid compatible hose with hose clamps. Flare of some sort at the lines helps hold the hose in place. If no hard line left to come from transmission, would have to get a fitting adapter to barb for hose

 

[Schurkey]

1. If you "flush" a torque converter, you MUST drill a drain hole as the converter will trap a quart of fluid or more that can't be gotten out otherwise. (well, I suppose acetone would evaporate...I don't know what sort of residue it'd leave, or how long it would take. Drill the hole, tap for pipe thread, install brass plug or pipe-thread set-screw. WHERE you drill the hole is important, and probably varies with the kind of torque converter.

2. You can't balance a torque converter without special equipment, because the stator won't spin with the rest of the converter.

3. "Hose" used for the cooler circuit must withstand trans fluid (chemical resistance) as well as HEAT. Takes "special" rubber hose, or the expensive "steel braided" stuff. Overall, I'd rather put a double-flare on each end of the broken tube, and use tube nuts to retain an inverted-flare union. In a pinch, a compression-sleeve union will do.

 

[seza]

Thank you - Schurkey and the others,
We welded the converter best we can and we made new fitting for the original steel pipe, all looked good
until we put fluid back in ... the f@cking thing started leaking from the harness plug right where the arrow is
as if she is having a lough ... piss here!
I have no idea as to how the plug fit into the hole in the unit, can we just spread some RTV over the plug? would that work?

The lower yellow-pink base looks to me as if it is not sitting properly, it has sidewise movement,
Now am not able to plug the thing back in

any thoughts please?

 

[seza]

Ok guys - I think we got the ol girl back on the road again,
the welded torque c is functioning normally,
the fluid leak from the harness connector is fixed by simply lifting the connector up so it is
held with it's own clips, all ok there ...
all-in-all we seem to have fixed it - we hope
thank you all guys for help.