1993 Yukon crate motor hydraulic roller lifter cleaning and adjustment journey - (Solved)

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scott2093

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Just got back from a little drive..
Exhaust quit smoking!
Still a bit of smoke from engine bay .. 1st light I came to I thought I'd better turn around because it was coming out of the engine bay pretty good... Now it's not so bad but still need to check.
Hopefully valve covers worst case,,,,

Truck runs so much better.. Pretty jazzed....

Just seeing your post Road Trip...will read....

yes..humid....rain for 2.5 days straight.....today 1st day break from it and cooler...
coolant has always been solid and I keep an eye on overflow.. It's always good... I don't deserve how good the truck has been tbh... I work out of it so it gets used for sure...
 

scott2093

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Gave adjusting the passenger side rockers another try. Of course today was the day the house 2 doors down has landcape service... And it's the time to do all the shrubs...and mulch... Noise pollution was pretty distracting. This was 3 hours ago and they're still there...lol

I don't feel good about it but, truck is running great, no smoke. Just went for some errands and gas and , apart from this morning's oil on the headers burning off, everything seems good.

Definitely want to get a valve cover or two and modify to make this process more enjoyable. I think I need another shot.

Still hear ticking when you listen close enough. Even tried half turn instead of quarter and didn't hear a change in final ticking as far as listening close..Normal? Old lifters//?

The one thing that popped up was when I just backed up into my steep driveway. I blipped the throttle and heard one slight diesel sounding knock,,maybe passenger side... Didn't sound like pinging but idk..maybe it was.

I'm set at 0* timing..
Will see how my oot trip goes.. Leaving tomorrow night....
Thanks for everyone's help.
Must be something wrong with me because I have a sizeable itch to do this as soon as I can again...lol
 
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scott2093

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In the video at 1min 35s - is one of the header bolts on cyl 7 slack?
I saw that too. Thought it was just vibration... I'll check it out.
I also want to see where that hiss/grind noise is coming from. I assumed it was alternator whine/grind sound (fairly recent ebay nos) but not 100%.. almost sounds like huge leak....
tx..
 

scott2093

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In the video at 1min 35s - is one of the header bolts on cyl 7 slack?

Dang...You were right! Both of them were way loose...need to find torque spec.... anyone know what they should be? Having a hard time finding it....
manual says exhaust pipe to manifold is 15ft lb...
that's not what I'm looking for is it?

exhaust manifold to head ----2 center bolts 26ft lb, 2 outer 28 ft lbs?? but there's a total of 4 outer? 2 and 2
Thank you! wow...
 
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Pinger

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Dang...You were right! Both of them were way loose...need to find torque spec.... anyone know what they should be? Having a hard time finding it....
Thank you! wow...
If you are prepared to accept Haynes' numbers....

4.3, 5.0 and 5.7l 1988 to 1995 > Centre bolts 26, Outer bolts 20.
4.3, 5.0 and 5.7l 1996 to 2000 > Step 1 11, step 2 22.
No units stated - presumably lb.ft.
 

scott2093

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If you are prepared to accept Haynes' numbers....

4.3, 5.0 and 5.7l 1988 to 1995 > Centre bolts 26, Outer bolts 20.
4.3, 5.0 and 5.7l 1996 to 2000 > Step 1 11, step 2 22.
No units stated - presumably lb.ft.
That's right... I looked too quick and read the newton for the 28...
Man there were like 6 bolts loose. One at the very front driver's side was so loose I thought had snapped because it was just dangling....
Awesome thanks...
That hissing is the CAI ...Didn't realize it was so loud.....
 

PlayingWithTBI

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Check your grounds at the T-Stat too. If it's loose or bad, your computer will think it's -40° and pour all kinds of fuel to it. I had a loose connection and mine would smoke when cold only but, cleared up once it started warming up - think maybe the heat expansion made a better connection...
 

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scott2093

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Check your grounds at the T-Stat too. If it's loose or bad, your computer will think it's -40° and pour all kinds of fuel to it. I had a loose connection and mine would smoke when cold only but, cleared up once it started warming up - think maybe the heat expansion made a better connection...
Make sense. I'm certain they are tight since I just did the intake and remember........but....

Can't remember why but I have , I believe it's the 4 small awg grounds coming from the harness and the battery and body heavy awg all terminating to the manifold stud on the passenger side next to the cts. I think I did that years ago or maybe they were like this and I just redid them. Can't recall...

I know a couple of them are supposed to be grounded at the t stat from looking at the manual........ Been meaning to address that.
Getting ready so I can head out but will bring my manual with me and maybe do it when I'm at my destination for the next dew days......

Not sure I see the real issue with it being this way but know it's supposed to be set up a certain way for a reason. Maybe ground loops?idk,,,,,
Thanks!
 

Hipster

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This is just one more data point to add to the mix. No doubt that there are others
who can deliver the same/even better hydraulic valvetrain adjustment using the
cold preload method. Maybe if they can share their process then I can do it too.
No doubt less messy to boot. :0)

Cheers --
I cut my Teeth so to speak doing valve adjustments on shaft mount adjustable rockers where the adjustment screw is above a cupped pushrod. There is no running adjustment that can be done. All kinds of lifters out there and have come across stock replacements that hold the valve open @3/4. Pretty much do everything cold these days and never find a need to to do a running hot lash even when replacing parts. Most stock stuff @1/2 turn. Some hi-po stuff that calls for .003, fast bleed anti pump ups you can't feel where zero is and out comes a dial indicator and I check plunger depth at the end of each head and come up with an average to set all at based on adjuster thread tpi vs movement measurement. 100 different ways to get there but whatever way accuracy is paramount. What's the difference on hot/cold lash on a solid .010 give or take? Won't matter with most hydraulics unless hydro-solid .003 type.
 
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