1993 k1500 engine swap to 1995 k1500

[trabbot2]

So, long story short: I have a 1993 k1500, it's ugly. Dad had a 1995 k1500, it's beautiful. His head gasket blew and so did a head. Mine (1993) has a fresh rebuild with 10000ish. 2000 dollars later and I now own both of them.

I will have an extra engine and stuff for your projects that I probably can give away for free. Just pay shipping. Lol.

Anyways, that was the short part.... my question is pretty simple, being that these are both 5.7 engines, the 1993 is manual nv3500, the 1995 is auto. 4l60e. I am keeping computer the same for obvious reasons, but whoever put the engine into the 95 cut out all related sensors to the engine compartment. Like O2, possibly, knock sensor, the distributer has a msd so that's gone. Probably some others too.

Can I splice in my 1993 sensors for plug and play, or should I just keep msd, and forget all those pesky sensors pull the dash and pop that engine light bulb. I did not get the honor of taking the top end out of his truck, so not fully sure what is going to be different for plugging back in. Can I splice anything that needs to be.im an electrician, so wires are not a problem for me. Hope that was enough information. Oh yeah, no emissions due to 95 in Texas.

Any information that can make this easier for me I would appreciate. It's my first engine swap, but I am labeling everything and keeping very organized. Engine will be transplanted this weekend.

Thank you,

 

[someotherguy]

The engines are practically identical, and the sensors will be too, most of them if not all. About the only gotcha is of course you'll need to pull the pilot bearing/bushing out of your 1993's crank before you can put it in an automatic transmission truck. Pretty easy with the correct tool - for about $25 you can get one with "jaws" that go inside the bearing and hook into it so you can pull it out, or if it's got the bushing, about $10 gets you one you can jam into the bushing and pump it with a grease gun to pop it out.

Richard

 

[trabbot2]

Yeah I have that tool. But I don't want to forget that, so thanks for the reminder. Thank you very much for the fast reply. They looked identical from what I remembered. Just missing sensors, so alright I think I can. Haha. Have a great day.

 

[Nad_Yvalhosert]

You might not need to splice anything in the main engine compartment if have a complete donor harness with the '93.

Leave the wiring harness attached to the engine, just unbolt the harness block at the firewall by the master cyl, and at the computer by the Coolant reservoir. Remove any ground wires, and pull the engine/trans/wiring as an assembly.

The sub-harness for the auto tranny should just unplug from the main harness, once you get both engines out and set next to each other, you can note the differences and swap. Look carefully at the size & shape of the bulkhead connectors. That'll give you the "go/no go" for using the '93 harness in the '95.

 

[someotherguy]

Nad - you bring up a good point, I may have misunderstood what he meant when he was talking about the splicing. If the '95 has its harnesses -cut- then that's a bigger job, depending on where and what they cut. The '93 and '95 harnesses are very different, and I mean very. His computer-side harness won't work either as he's transplanting from a manual trans truck into an automatic. Nothing that can't be overcome with some digging through the wiring diagrams and maybe a boneyard trip.

Richard

 

[Erik the Awful]

you'll need to pull the pilot bearing/bushing out of your 1993's crank before you can put it in an automatic transmission truck.

Why? Just leave it in place.

 

[someotherguy]

Why? Just leave it in place.

Would it not interfere with the torque converter seating properly? Maybe I'm wrong here, please correct if so.

Richard

 

[Erik the Awful]

The pilot bearing goes into a hole in the backside of the crank and doesn't protrude out of the hole. The flexplate bolts to the outside edge of the crank.

 

[someotherguy]

The pilot bearing goes into a hole in the backside of the crank and doesn't protrude out of the hole. The flexplate bolts to the outside edge of the crank.

Yeah, I get that. But the torque converter "button" on the front, does that not seat into the end of the crank? Hey, if not, no need creating extra work by pulling the bearing/bushing, I was just pretty sure it was in the way.

Richard

 

[Erik the Awful]

How far into the end of the crank does it seat? To be honest, I haven't tried bolting a torque converter over a pilot bearing, but I just went out and checked the pilot bearing in the kit for my NV3500 and looked at the bearing pocket on my $150 350 crankshaft. It doesn't look like they'll interfere. The pilot bearing hole is inset further than the pocket the torque converter fits into.