100K 1999 Known good 4L80E, what would you do to freshen this transmission to stage 2?

[RanchWelder]

I'm all ears. It's going into my K5 1987 Blazer.

The 7.4L engine dropped the oil pump tube and unfortunately, it was driven 15 miles without oil pressure.
The body panels, doors and undercarraige are clean, garage kept for 100K.

I have asked the mods to unlock my ability to offer clean parts in the for sale forum.

How about some pump and rebuild advice? My first 4L80E build. I need to add the reluctor wheel and the semsor for 1999 4x4 VSS capable trans.

If you are a builder and have a kit for me, I am very interested. It's a long winter here. Time to build a solid transmission.

-Welder

 

[NickTransmissions]

I'm all ears. It's going into my K5 1987 Blazer.

The 7.4L engine dropped the oil pump tube and unfortunately, it was driven 15 miles without oil pressure.
The body panels, doors and undercarraige are clean, garage kept for 100K.

I have asked the mods to unlock my ability to offer clean parts in the for sale forum.

How about some pump and rebuild advice? My first 4L80E build. I need to add the reluctor wheel and the semsor for 1999 4x4 VSS capable trans.

If you are a builder and have a kit for me, I am very interested. It's a long winter here. Time to build a solid transmission.

-Welder

How much do you want to spend on parts and transmission tools (you havent mentioned one way or another about what tools you own or dont so asking)?

My 4L80E rebuild playlist will give you a good understanding of the scope of the work, required tooling, lube mods, parts selection (note - most of the high performance stuff isnt necessary if your engine is mostly/entirely stock), as well as procedures and specs.

 

[RanchWelder]

I have the stainless drain table, ready to assemble, pulled from a large grocery store vegetable refridgerated rectangle shaped stand.
It was 6'x3'. With the pans connected at 45 degree angles, in the corners, at a 4" fall towards the center. If I use 4x4's as asurround, it will be strong enough to tear down without causing a mess. The stainless table parts assembled, leaves a 3" gap I'll have to screen, with a 3/4" brake metal edge to stop smal parts from going down the drain... I can drill small weep holes in the crease of the braked metal to drain, intermittantly.
I plan on welding a v-shaped catch, on a rake, to drain into a bucket. I have 4x4's to brace the central section from bending or collapsing.

What do you have for good used tools or engine stand mounts for me to get started?

If you will assist with my first Sonnex order, I'm going to try to add the GM028 valve body, or buy one from you which has been upgraded/rebuilt and then go from there with your recommended added parts to freshen up the 1999 4L80E. It has just over 100K. SC-4L80E kit makes good sense. I have never installed one yet. If I can buy reworked parts or source good used from you, you have my attention. I own an engine stand, so the Superior seems like a good option, but if you have any good used shop tools or mounts to get started on the cheap, I'm ready and listening.

We're 130 miles from any town with machine support here. No new/used car dealerships, at all.
Our local shops replace engines and transmissions, they rebuild nothing here.
The best machine shop is 140 miles away.
If I can refurb in chunks of Q/C controlled parts and re-assemble here, there's a market for quality local rebuilds.
I accept my limitations and your expertise. My credit is excellent and I have room to move, with your guidance.

Just bought:

Chevrolet GM 4L60-E & 4L80-E automatic transmission SERVICE manual binder​

Already own the ASTG 700R4/4L60E manuals.

Do I need this to hit the holes on the mount for the 4L80E? SST-2901​

You must be registered for see images attach

This looks strong, unless you have an alternative?
I can weld and own a welder. For what it costs to jig up, this seems very affordable, unless I can find Kent Moore for same money...
Do not have a steel table yet, to do a bench mount, that will not flip over under load.

You must be registered for see images attach

Sell me your old engine stand mount and a 2901 offset mount tool?
I'll need bearing drivers and a compression tool for the 4L80 also. If you can recommend a set, I'll buy them or buy your old set.
Although I appreciate the need for the vacuum test gear, for the same money I can buy a rebuilt Sonnex valve body and servo's, rebuilt from you, or the GM028. I'd rather get my transmission up and running (without testing, or I'll send you the core to test). I'll buy the test tools after this is installed and the money becomes available. I can build the Sonnex manifold vacuum set cheaper than $295... I have an OTC leak down manifold test set which I could mod and use the quick connect vacuum lines in your video. I'll need time to buy the parts to mod it for this purpose. I have a chunk of lexan for the vacuum test component. I just need fittings, push connectors and some tubing. Sourced a 1/2hp 2 stage pump with oil for $98 on fleabait.

Bought a quality 28" screw driver and it has not yet been notch cut for a retaining clip removal yet. Made in USA.
I'll have to buy a cheapo parts washer, until I can fab a sonic cleaner.

If I set up to fix one, I may as well fix a hundred... My local salvage hauler has contacts in all directions for good cores, as I get going.
I will not be able to afford a dyno, but I have good quality calipers up to 6" and a very HQ bar style torque wrench.
125psi sears Compressor, blow gun, Makita rattle driver, socket impact adaptors and hex bits... I can tear down and measure accurately, for now.
What feeler gauge set do you recommend, I'll buy it asap?

Really apreciate yout time and consideration.

 

[RanchWelder]

Just bought the Stage 3 kit from Jake's Performance for $1337.00 delivered. It includes the dual feed modified plate or reprogramming kit. It was $50 instead of $175 when you buy the rebuild kit. The stage 3 has the 4340 shaft.
He offered $224 off as a blackfriday deal... It has the rollerized billet forward hub.
I will try to get by with the non-4340 intermediate shaft, unless this is required...
Do I need to upgrade the intermediate at this point? If mine is good, I'd like to use it... I'm not running more than 500HP... yet...

I'll probably buy the plug for the third gear port, just to be certain the plate and gasket do not leak on the re-programming kit. I have read the plate gasket is known to blow by... so to be safe, I'll probably plug as well.

I'm tooling up. I could use an engine stand mount, if you have one laying around or know of a good quality mount with a few builds left in it, to save me some cash. If you have a guy with an affordable design, let me know, please?
I asked the eBait seller of the mount I posted for a deal... maybe unpainted or as a weldable kit... he has not responded yet with an offer. A known good used one would work to get started.

Asked Jake for his best suggested VB with the Sonnex and whatever shift kit modes he uses, so I don't have to buy the reamer kit, just yet. If I can buy re-manufactured large assembly hard parts and stick to end play and reassembly of known good parts, that is what I want to concentrate on, for now. I am researching the three points of adjustment and the critical shaft wear analysis points. Especially at the end shaft seals. I'm hoping Werner can mill me an end bushing driver, with the correct adjustment to use a .500" bushing and the TH350 Fafnir bearing, instead of buying the $45.00 no-walk lip bushing kit...
If he can put together the correct bearing part number and the driver to utilize the wide bushing, it would save a bunch on rebuilds... I expect the shim process to be a multi day re-assembly and measure and tear down and re-measure type of thing.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/204556507612?hash=item2fa08499dc:g:LU4AAOSwYUdlZCZ5
I bought the upgraded HD press rated bushing driver set from StefanWerner.

You must be registered for see images attach

Bought the cheapo AZ drum press, qualitypump band alignment strap, HQ USA Made feeler gauges.

I'm missing a good quality in/pounds wrench. Like to find a bar style, which needs less cert.

Do you recommend the adjustable pressure valve Jake sells, which allows the use of an Allen wrench to adjust 4L80 pressure?
Or is it not necessary for street/off road use?
https://shop.jakesperformance.com/shop/ols/products/4l80e-adjustable-pressure-regulator
It eliminates the AFL or EPC circuits from affecting mainline pressure. Do I want this for my build or not?
I'm not educated on the hydraulics functions to know why this matters yet.

I will follow your advice, if you offer your assistance and explain what I can do to to get the first one right, the first time.
I'll try not to wear you out. Bear with me, I'm rode rough and put away wet... not stoopid.

I got this.

 

[NickTransmissions]

Just bought the Stage 3 kit from Jake's Performance for $1337.00 delivered. It includes the dual feed modified plate or reprogramming kit. It was $50 instead of $175 when you buy the rebuild kit. The stage 3 has the 4340 shaft.
He offered $224 off as a blackfriday deal... It has the rollerized billet forward hub.
I will try to get by with the non-4340 intermediate shaft, unless this is required...
Do I need to upgrade the intermediate at this point? If mine is good, I'd like to use it... I'm not running more than 500HP... yet...

I'll probably buy the plug for the third gear port, just to be certain the plate and gasket do not leak on the re-programming kit. I have read the plate gasket is known to blow by... so to be safe, I'll probably plug as well.

I'm tooling up. I could use an engine stand mount, if you have one laying around or know of a good quality mount with a few builds left in it, to save me some cash. If you have a guy with an affordable design, let me know, please?
I asked the eBait seller of the mount I posted for a deal... maybe unpainted or as a weldable kit... he has not responded yet with an offer. A known good used one would work to get started.

Asked Jake for his best suggested VB with the Sonnex and whatever shift kit modes he uses, so I don't have to buy the reamer kit, just yet. If I can buy re-manufactured large assembly hard parts and stick to end play and reassembly of known good parts, that is what I want to concentrate on, for now. I am researching the three points of adjustment and the critical shaft wear analysis points. Especially at the end shaft seals. I'm hoping Werner can mill me an end bushing driver, with the correct adjustment to use a .500" bushing and the TH350 Fafnir bearing, instead of buying the $45.00 no-walk lip bushing kit...
If he can put together the correct bearing part number and the driver to utilize the wide bushing, it would save a bunch on rebuilds... I expect the shim process to be a multi day re-assembly and measure and tear down and re-measure type of thing.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/204556507612?hash=item2fa08499dc:g:LU4AAOSwYUdlZCZ5
I bought the upgraded HD press rated bushing driver set from StefanWerner.

You must be registered for see images attach

Bought the cheapo AZ drum press, pump band alignment strap, feeler gauges.

I'm missing a good quality in/pounds wrench. Like to find a bar style, which needs less cert.

Do you recommend the adjustable pressure valve Jake sells, which allows the use of an Allen wrench to adjust 4L80 pressure?
Or is it not necessary for street/off road use?
https://shop.jakesperformance.com/shop/ols/products/4l80e-adjustable-pressure-regulator
It eliminates the AFL or EPC circuits from affecting mainline pressure. Do I want this for my build or not?
I'm not educated on the hydraulics functions to know why this matters yet.

I will follow your advice, if you offer your assistance and explain what I can do to to get the first one right, the first time.
I'll try not to wear you out. Bear with me, I'm rode rough and put away wet... not stoopid.

I got this.

You're off to a good start...Jake's kits are good to go; the stock intermediate shaft should be fine for power levels 700HP and below/6000 RPM and below. Anything beyond that, I'd use it. It's up to you if you want to use the adjustable pressure regulator kit but generally high mileage 4L80Es suffer from worn TCC regulator and AFL valves/bores so prob a good idea to install it (I ream those bores and install Sonnax oversize or Sonnax drop-ins for the TCC). Buy an early 4L80E pump body bushing to rollerize the rear of the case (along with a TH350 pump bearing and shim pack).

Here's a short list of what you need to focus on to get started (not exhaustive):
1. Hard part inspection (forward drum - check for sealing ring grooves in the bore | planetary carriers - check pinions for side play as any amount is no good; vertical play has a spec limit - make sure none are over it | Front planet band surface - make sure it's not warped or machine it if it is | case lugs and band anchors | pump working surfaces, esp around the crescent | case belly - sand it flat to prevent cross leaks | all journal surfaces that see bushing contact | splines on all hard parts | gear teeth everywhere) - there's more but Im not trying to boil the ocean...The ATSG manual is your friend - buy it if you haven't already done so.
- If you need to replace any parts in the rear gear train, you must confirm the replacement hard parts are for a 99+ 4L80E - pay attention on tear down to see if you have a .041 spacer underneath the sun-gear to ring gear thrust bearing. If so, your planetary carriers are different than the 91-96 AND 97-08 4L80Es and must be replaced with equivalent parts
- Part tip: Consider using a wide forward drum bushing for better contact with the OD planet's journal

2. Lubrication mods, especially if you're running a late model case - see my video on 4L80E lube mods
Do not drill the line-to-lube hole if using the Sonnax line-to-lube pressure regulator valve

3. End play....Rear end play should be between .006-.017 and front end play should be between .010-.020; front end play must be measured with the rear section loaded! Front end play must exceed rear end play by .005+ - otherwise you will have a bind of the entire rotating assembly so make sure you have a variety of shims and selective spacers on hand for the rear (TH350 bearing shims) and front (4L80E selective thrust washers)

4. Planetary travel (reaction and output carriers) - make sure there is minimal travel...There's no hard spec figure for this, it's all done by feel (See my TH400 playlist and/or 4L80E Playlist for setting and adjusting spacing between the front and rear planetary carriers) - if there is already very minimal spacing, just leave it alone

5. Forward and Direct Drum spacing - use spacers that come with your billet forward hub to adjust travel between these two drums - again, no hard spec here either but you want keep it to a minimum (see the above mentioned vid in my playlist)

6. Bushings - expect to have to clearance a few bushings to fit, especially the sun gear shaft bushings so have 400, 600, 800, 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper on hand

7. Replace ALL one-way clutches (Low roller, intermediate sprag, OD roller) - retro a 97+ 4L80E direct drum w/bonded piston and Borg Warner 34-element HD sprag if you're rebuilding a 91-96 unit

8. Follow Jake's instructions explicitly when it comes to dual feeding! Do NOT deviate from them (so don't plug anything, leave anything off, etc unless the instructions call for it)
DO NOT USE TRANGO's HD2 Shift Kit under any circumstances!!!! - Can't stress that enough (their dual feed sandwich-style plate leaks, pressure relief valve mod burns up transmissions)

9. Air checking - make sure you air check all applied elements to validate each is functioning as it should before moving on to the next step.


Parts and Tooling - Please be advised that I DO NOT sell parts or tools under any circumstances; you've mentioned it a few times in prev posts or in conversation so wanted to ensure we're on the same page when it comes to that.

Parting Thoughts: Take some time to understand how this transmission works!!! Grasping the theory of operation and learning the relationship between the electronic/hydraulic mechanical command and control components and the case components responsible for executing them is critical if you have a problem. This will ensure you're not stuck having no idea where to start troubleshooting and fixing in the event the trans doesn't work right the first time.

Be patient, go slow, double check you work and ask questions as you need to.

 

[RanchWelder]

Cool!
Really appreciate the tips.
When you have time to include any detailed step by step mods, details or installer tips, please keep them coming!
Have a photographic memory. Have been trained to read documentation during moving light repairs for motion guidance and rigging automation controls.
Refer to training docs during inspection and mods, as a primary re-instruction process. Distractions aside... "We all have them..."
Bought the CD hydraulic diagrams as a paper printed ring bound assembly and repair manual of eBauit.
Also own the 1999 K2500 GM Service and dealership repair manuals. Realize they are dated with mods and installer part numbers.
It's the small details, like what NOT to use, that becomes difficult for the first time rebuild-er, without experience.

Jake's kit might be more than what I need if my 1999 shaft is already heat treated and hardened?
CK said it was more than I need to spend for the RPM range I intend to operate... I'm cool with saving money, if the 4340 shaft is already in my unit...

Let me know if I can save a few bucks and their 99' shaft is probably good enough for my LOW RPM truck 4x4 application.
Trans has 95K. Most likely reason fro rebuild is leaking connector seals, shorting out and trans abuse by somebody plowing snow, while not properly stopping before shifting into reverse... As I pull it apart, I'll update and post pics of what I find.

Jake is cool. He did not answer my call today. Tomorrow is last day of sale for the reprogram kit and a rebuild kit. If I can save a few bucks and not buy the 4340 shaft and get the reprogram kit for $50, this would be even better... (Thanks for answering the phone CK!)
I'm not trying to say anyone did anything wrong, except me, for not knowing if I needed the upgraded shaft, or not, because I'm not trained to know better, yet.

You said: "Be patient, go slow, double check you work and ask questions as you need to."
... Got it.

 

[RanchWelder]

Yes, I will take the time to learn the hydraulics routing, the changes made intricately and promise not regurgitate what others have said blindly...
That said, it's a process and I expect to learn the curve. It's the small things, like what NOT to use, which are still available and might have been superseded, what concerns me. So few builder's selling parts will actually out-date or delist bad parts from the sales pages and recommendations.
I love capitalism, I just wish hitting the propeller at such a fast speed was not part of the learning process.

I hope Jake allows me to downgrade my order, based upon what I actually require for the 1999, instead of penalizing me for being ignorant of what I already own. My biggest concern is buying a "kit" which substitutes parts, with 90 day warranty, when I'm not able to test, install and request for warranty, in the 90 day timeline, as a new builder.

Not wealthy enough to play the game, by the timeline rules sucks.

 

[RanchWelder]

I cannot seriously trust a borrowed reamer, when I'm not certain it was not dropped on the floor or used beyond spec and I have no way to realistically test if it is out of spec or bent.

 

[RanchWelder]

Just bought the J 38870-5 Kent Moore tool box with the bearing pullers and the clutch alignment tools.
$670.00

I'm saving up for the vacuum plate and a new converter.
The 14 Bolt 10.5" floater just hit the ground, clean with the E-Brake cables and the foot controler pedal in tact.
Goodby 10-bolt c-clips and 9" rears...

My guy with the hauling rig took the carcas of the K2500.

Stripped everything, very clean. Dash harness, control modules, leather electric front seats, tan center console, overhead controls, lighting...
I can pull the doors or gut the inner panels and windows, if you know anyone who needs them. Pass the word they are for sale on GMSquarebody, under the same username, in the For Sale Thread. I'll cut the hinges, leaving the pins and ship the entire door units with glass for $550 each.
I need the money for the toos and the rest of my build parts. I'll box and protect everything well.
I have a UPS Ground account, but FedEx is OK too, as long as the buyer pays all shipping and pickup fees.

If you know somebody who can use a Hydro Boost, complete, or a set of clean front fenders, with the skirts and small plastic fnder well bits, let me know.

I'm searching for a 4L80E pump rebuild to install a GM set of gears and the pump protector plate and whichever upgrade kit works best.
I have not measured if the pistons are in blow by or the o-ring kit is required. Soon as I pull it and measure, I'll let you know what my core looks like, with pics.

I'm a bit behind on squiring a Tig Machine to weld my planet pins properly. Can I use my stick with a small rod to get by for now?

I'm trading the cluster and the ALB System for the Superior Trans Mount for my engine stand, to a guy on GMSBF. I asked for the HD version with the extra leg, so I can work on 6L80 and 6L85 later on. Gut feeling is this was money well spent.

If you have advice on reamers, or what not to buy, let me know.

I'm also looking for advice on Trans-go vs Sunnex valve upgrades and what to watch out for or avoid.

I'm using the 1999 GMT400 Repair manuals, (the entire set) and the Service Manual Overhaul Full Diagnostics binder set from eBay as my rebuild guide. Have already saved all the Sunnex and Trans-Go .pdf's I can find.
The Kent Moore tool set comes with a pump valve reamer kit and the ASTG book, as well.
It was about $100 more than I was hoping to buy it for, however if the reamer has not been ruined, it was a very good deal?

LMKWYT.

P.S. Your videos are very cool. I'm listening. Have the GM Manuals on my desk every night, reading and learning the stack and nomenclature.


Happy Holidays!