‘92 5.7 tbi stalls after tach goes crazy

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Schurkey

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Look at the distributor magnet. See if it's cracked.
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Give the shaft a wiggle, see if you can feel play between shaft and bushings. (Ideally, with distributor out of the vehicle, so you can look at the distributor gear as well.) If it's not cracked, and no bushing play, I'd put an ignition module and perhaps a pickup coil in the existing distributor.

There's lots of low-dollar "new" distributors, you can be reasonably assured that they've got junk components in them.

Similarly, I'd test the coil with an ohmmeter and a spark-tester calibrated for HEI. Preferably with the coil hot from use, and sprayed with a mist of water from a squirt-bottle.

I do my best to get ignition parts from the Treasure Yard. OEM quality, dirt-cheap pricing, usually but not always totally functional.
 

Ninety-two

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Look at the distributor magnet. See if it's cracked.
You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


Give the shaft a wiggle, see if you can feel play between shaft and bushings. (Ideally, with distributor out of the vehicle, so you can look at the distributor gear as well.) If it's not cracked, and no bushing play, I'd put an ignition module and perhaps a pickup coil in the existing distributor.

There's lots of low-dollar "new" distributors, you can be reasonably assured that they've got junk components in them.

Similarly, I'd test the coil with an ohmmeter and a spark-tester calibrated for HEI. Preferably with the coil hot from use, and sprayed with a mist of water from a squirt-bottle.

I do my best to get ignition parts from the Treasure Yard. OEM quality, dirt-cheap pricing, usually but not always totally functional.
Wow. Thanks. This seems like solid, knowledgeable advice that might even save some money. It also seems like a more daunting project than just swapping a bad set of parts for a good set. Never as simple as I want it to be. Sometimes you can trade money for time and experience, sometimes you just can’t. At the least I’ll have a look. ‘Appreciate it.
 

Ninety-two

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Actually looks pretty good. A little bit of fero-magnetic crap on the magnet right around the shaft but pretty clean. I’m going for icm and ignition coil. Fingers crossed.
 

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jess t

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I have almost the exact problem (92 C1500 5.7 700R4, tach bounces wildly at idle). I have done (unsuccessfully) all you have tried. When you change out the ICM and coil, if you would, do the coil first (easiest), then try it to see if it fixes the problem (new ICM, then new dist did NOT fix mine). I haven't tried a new coil yet (not 100%certain of this as I have been throwing parts at this problem for about 2 years!).
 

Ninety-two

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if you would, do the coil first (easiest), then try it to see if it fixes the problem.
Sorry but I read here that a coil can take out an ICM so I planned to do both and possibly the pick-up coil too; but that seems ok. So I have both out and since I need to order parts, I’ll put it all back together at once.
 

thx1138v2

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Check your cable connections to the battery. Disconnect and clean them. Also the wire that goes to the alternator.

If you see any corrosion at the battery terminals, cut the insulation parallel to the wire and peal it back a bit to see if the corrosion has crept into the cable. If so, replace them.

I had the same problem but it was my speedometer that went crazy.
 

4183jose

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I just had a problem with my 98 k1500 on a trip. kept stalling no power, the stereo kept shutting off. Founf autozone and had them check my yellow top battery and said it was good, it started fine low idle. I removed my alternator and took it in to test and it passed. I took a gamble and bought a new battery as optimas are known to short out interally. With the new battery everything went back to normal and was able to make my 360 mile trip and back. Sounds simple but cross out all your ts
 
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