'94 GMC Sierra K2500 Headlights Not Working Right

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

cc333

I'm Awesome
Joined
Apr 22, 2021
Messages
139
Reaction score
103
Location
Limbo
Same truck ('94 K2500, (7.4L) 454 V8.

Was trying to drive it last night, and about 2 minutes in, I began to smell a faint odor of something getting hot.

A couple minutes later, the headlights started to go out, and that faint odor of something hot started smelling like burning electronics, so I had to turn around and drive back — in the dark with no lights — to where I came from (it was lucky I was with someone so I could follow their car back, or else I wouldn't have been able to see). I found that wiggling the switch would make them flicker a bit, but they wouldn't stay on.

I haven't had a chance to look at it yet, so to get things started, I'll ask concisely and succinctly:

What happened and why, and how do I fix it? :)

c
 

GrimsterGMC

Supporting Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2021
Messages
1,251
Reaction score
4,115
Location
New Zealand
Sounds like you have an electrical short that is overloading the switch and causing the plastic to melt. Definitely pull the switch as it will need replacing, and find the short before you have a fire.
 

cc333

I'm Awesome
Joined
Apr 22, 2021
Messages
139
Reaction score
103
Location
Limbo
Sounds like you have an electrical short that is overloading the switch and causing the plastic to melt. Definitely pull the switch as it will need replacing, and find the short before you have a fire.
Very sound advice!

I will order a new switch and either have a look at the wiring myself, or take it to the mechanic (it's due for a tune up anyway, and unfortunately, I'm not equipped, nor do I have much time to do that myself).

c
 

DerekTheGreat

Forum Regular
Joined
May 23, 2016
Messages
1,598
Reaction score
1,652
Location
Michigan
From what I recollect about a similar thread I read on here, it sounds like the thermal breaker for the headlights is doing it's job. Look into the switch in the dash, but also the highbeam/lowbeam switch in the steering column. Those things get crusty over time, circuit generates heat and eventually magic smoke can be released once the circuit reaches peak ecstasy.
 

evilunclegrimace

Does not always play well with others
Joined
Sep 18, 2017
Messages
2,406
Reaction score
2,530
Location
pennsylvaina
I had the same problem with my '88 k 3500 years ago, I found that power feed from the switch had melted the connector that was behind the glove box after a bit of searching.
 

cc333

I'm Awesome
Joined
Apr 22, 2021
Messages
139
Reaction score
103
Location
Limbo
I have yet to actually check any of the wiring, but I'd like to know what, if any parts I should get other than the switch.

Connectors? Wiring harnesses? Fuses?

Thank you!

c
 

evilunclegrimace

Does not always play well with others
Joined
Sep 18, 2017
Messages
2,406
Reaction score
2,530
Location
pennsylvaina
I have yet to actually check any of the wiring, but I'd like to know what, if any parts I should get other than the switch.

Connectors? Wiring harnesses? Fuses?

Thank you!

c
The only way to tell what parts that you will need is to take it apart and start looking for problems.
 

cc333

I'm Awesome
Joined
Apr 22, 2021
Messages
139
Reaction score
103
Location
Limbo
Fixed!

Apparently all the wiring is OK, and it was the switch.

With the help of a friend, I opened up the switch and looked at the contacts. One of them – the main headlight circuit – looked visibly burned. Some quick trial and error determined that the contact was still intact, but was caked with dirty, burnt dielectric grease, so after cleaning it up with some mineral spirits, the headlights started working again!

As I was doing some research, I came across a listing at LMC Truck for a retrofit kit that rewires the headlights so that they draw power directly from the battery instead of through the switch. It costs about $26 for the wiring harnesses and another $15 for the relays. I'm sure I could do it myself for less, but the kit is appealing because it's easier and quicker to install.

Thoughts?

Also, I have a new switch on order, so I can have it ready to swap in if/when the existing switch fails again.

c
 
Top