EVAP Canister R&R?

DerekTheGreat said:

Hmmm. I look at that thing occasionally, not bulged or strange looking. Truck starts and runs as if it was new. I have been curious about that though, and do not top off the fiancée's 2002 Tahoe as I consider that a modern car which might be susceptible to my shenanigans.

How do you like those 7.3s? I remember thinking to myself Ford did something right by going back to a single camshaft and 2 valve per cylinder design.

Click to expand...

The gas 7.3's are plenty of power for our purposes, gas mileage sucks as you might expect (about 7-8mpg in our setup), but what I'm trying to figure out so far is why several of them have prematurely croaked. The one I'm driving currently is a 2021 and it had been ticking since about 70K and finally went for major engine repair around 117K. Sometimes the word I get back from the mechanic is a little vague since it's secondhand, but what I heard was "crank bearings" bad. Now we have a 2022 that is not ticking but knocking at 27K miles. 27K. Mostly quiet at idle but rev it at all and it sounds awful. Either the guys doing our oil changes are screwing up bigtime somehow (which I'm beating the drum for) or these engines are hit-or-miss junk.

HotWheelsBurban said:

The EVAP system is real sensitive on the 800s; went through changing the solenoid under the truck on the '06. Not a fun job even with the spare tire off. The "quick disconnect" is anything but.....
So I don't top any of our vehicles off anymore.

Click to expand...

You aren't kidding. I'd say each time you pull up next to a GMT800 in traffic you can almost bet money on looking over and seeing the CEL and if it's on, majority of the time it's because of an EVAP code. I replaced the vent solenoid with the upgraded design and still have related codes. Wife's truck started doing it too but I guess it's not a hard code yet as I saw the CEL on and it cleared itself later. Mine stays on.. been on since 2017.



Richard

EVAP system effectively seals the fuel system preventing the evaporation of gasoline. Limits condensation forming inside the tank which causes alcohol to separate, and absorb water.

someotherguy said:

The gas 7.3's are plenty of power for our purposes, gas mileage sucks as you might expect (about 7-8mpg in our setup), but what I'm trying to figure out so far is why several of them have prematurely croaked. The one I'm driving currently is a 2021 and it had been ticking since about 70K and finally went for major engine repair around 117K. Sometimes the word I get back from the mechanic is a little vague since it's secondhand, but what I heard was "crank bearings" bad. Now we have a 2022 that is not ticking but knocking at 27K miles. 27K. Mostly quiet at idle but rev it at all and it sounds awful. Either the guys doing our oil changes are screwing up bigtime somehow (which I'm beating the drum for) or these engines are hit-or-miss junk.

Richard

Click to expand...

Oh wow, that's a bummer. Surprised the one is nearly dead at 27k as Ford is going to have to foot the bill. The others didn't surprise me as of course, just outside of the warranty. Can't see how it gets any better for the manufacturer that way. I wonder if there is a class action lawsuit in the works?

El Tigre said:

EVAP system effectively seals the fuel system preventing the evaporation of gasoline. Limits condensation forming inside the tank which causes alcohol to separate, and absorb water.

Click to expand...

Well damn, i guess it's a no go to remove it...lol (said the friend!)

Another question...does it have to be vertical or can it be mounted horizontal? When I delete the ABS I sure would like to move this canister out of the front of the engine bay.

I'd keep it vertical, maybe mount it to the frame rail.

El Tigre said:

I'd keep it vertical, maybe mount it to the frame rail.

Click to expand...

Good idea...thanks!

I figured i would revive this thread insted of starting a new one. Got this truck from a flipper so i am assuming all changes from stock were done by him. He only had it a month so im sure it hasn't had very many hours running with its current set up, but the evap canister is missing and it seems that the canister purge hose is connected directly to a line that goes to the fule tank. If the picture loads correctly, from my preliminary inspection it seems that number 7 has been connected directly to number 5 (see images) i am asuuming this is bad?

Why folks delete this is beyond me. There is zero performance advantage.
Along with multiple significant drawbacks resulting in driveabilty issues.

Will it be ok to run it like this or do i need to go junk yard diving and find a canister? Or maybe just disconnect it entirely?

Anything other than returning it to its intended function has the potential for problems.