Help! - lower timing cover U-Seal. Impossible!

1997 K1500 5.7 -- conflicting information. Some say to use the old lip seal at the bottom of the timing cover (but mine is SWOLE and will not allow re-entry into that tight space (without removing oil pan). Shy of removing the oil pan (which I want to avoid at all costs), I want to be able to just put the timing cover back in place (new cover) using copious amounts of ultra black (Permatex). I have seen some people have success with this method, and some people end up with big leaks when the procedure is wrapped. If enough Permatex is applied, and in the right places, and is allowed to set-up properly, I don't see why this method should not work. But it's all theory until field-tested by yours truly. So looking for feedback on this one and if anyone knows the part number for that big fat lip seal at the bottom (so I can just get one aftermarket), that sure would be helpful if I elect to go that route. Oh yeah, the other route is to replace the entire oil pan gasket with a uni-body gasket (which negates the need for said lip-seal when doing timing cover replacement). K, thanks in advance. Oh, and in this video, the fella does not use a new lip-seal -- he just goes BIG on the Permatex (grey in this case). He crazy -- he told everyone to torque those cover bolts down to some insanely high ft. lb and they all post comments saying they snapped their bolts and would like to kick him in the nuts for giving them the improper torque specs (6lbs max is all you need!) But back to the question at hand -- you will see him add a big gob of sealant at the bottom of the cover instead of the big brown seal that it comes with from the factory. Has anyone performed this job using this method and had it not leak?

If the mating surfaces are immaculate (brake cleaner immaculate) it might work. You have similar product on front and rear intake manifold to block seal.
Be sure your PCV is functioning. Any oil where the sealant needs bond will result in failure. I've cut out the front cover section and replaced the cover with success. The new one-piece pan gaskets might not lend well to that fix. Clean surfaces is a must however you go at it. And, as you say, let it dry completely before starting.
The video guy probably got his feets and inch pounds mixed up..what with all that video and whatnot?

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I trim the lip off of the back side of the seal, clean like crazy with brake cleaner and use permatex right stuff. I back off the oil pan for all of the easy access bolts and test fit the seal. When all is good I clean everything and apply right stuff to the seal. I then wait 15 minutes, this IS important! After 15 minutes I install and tighten everything. I've had 100% success doing it this way.

Hey Skylark -- really appreciate you chiming in. Thanks for the input and guidance. I will prep all surfaces meticulously before I lay down that big fat bead (will apply on both surfaces too). This will be a pretty substantial amount of aggregated Ultra Black -- I would venture to guess the drying time will be at least 48 hours or more (with the temps right around 35-40 degrees in my garage). Decent guesstimate? I know they publish drying times but I have some variables that are atypical. But I think I will let the two surfaces "set-up" for a couple of hours (it says two on the instructions) before I torque everything down (will but bolts in just hand tight and let it sit in other words during set-up). And of course -- full oil change after this as all this activity right at the opening to the oil pan is bound to liberate some crud and deposit it where it don't belong.

Reporting back...

I implemented the above (Permatex Black - LARGE amounts) without reusing the old U-seal. And... zero oil leaks thus far (over 3 weeks and counting). Key is to clean the surfaces like crazy, then repeat, until there is no residue whatsoever -- then hit it with the P-tex and let it set up some before torquing it down to fac.spec. so far so good. Thanks for all the help.

soundquest said:

Hey Skylark -- really appreciate you chiming in. Thanks for the input and guidance. I will prep all surfaces meticulously before I lay down that big fat bead (will apply on both surfaces too). This will be a pretty substantial amount of aggregated Ultra Black -- I would venture to guess the drying time will be at least 48 hours or more (with the temps right around 35-40 degrees in my garage). Decent guesstimate? I know they publish drying times but I have some variables that are atypical. But I think I will let the two surfaces "set-up" for a couple of hours (it says two on the instructions) before I torque everything down (will but bolts in just hand tight and let it sit in other words during set-up). And of course -- full oil change after this as all this activity right at the opening to the oil pan is bound to liberate some crud and deposit it where it don't belong.

Click to expand...

how did this go? Work ok? As I’m doing this now

Why the reluctance to remove the oil pan? Is it because of 4WD hardware in the way?
I had to do this on my C2500 and managed it pretty easily without having raise the engine or even jack the truck up off the ground. The one thing I'd do differently if I was doing it again is to swing the oil cooler pipes out of the way (by detaching filter mount). All I had to remove for access - wasn't really removal, just the TC cover bolts removed and the cover moved a bit (not removed as that saved me having to detach exhaust) to access the most rearward oil pan nuts.
Fair enough on K models if the 4WD obstructs but on Cs, removing and replacing the oil pan isn't that big a deal.