Distributor

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CrustyJunker

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Never figured mine out on my old truck, but also never replaced parts other than the gear itself.

First distributor gear lasted 140,000 miles, second one 55,000 miles, and the third one 30,000 miles. Always ate one side of the gear more than the other. Never knew If it was camshaft, oil pump, or distributor shaft. 5W-30 Mobil-1 synthetic it's entire life at regular intervals.

@CTX-SLPR I also second keeping your OEM coil, at least keep it on the shelf should you want to change it. I've been stranded more than once from aftermarket coils...It stinks when you're far from home.
 

CTX-SLPR

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Reasonable.


Do you have a scan tool, so you can get it put back in properly? If so, pull it out, look it over. Check for gear wear, and loose bushings. The plastic housing is not known for longevity. If it's good...put it back in.


If the coil is still working properly, the old ~200,000 mile coil is probably BETTER than the brand-new aftermarket junk being sold.
I have HPTuners but that's it. Not looked into how to set it properly so I'll do that in the coming days while I wait for the 5-0 Motorsports injectors to arrive but probably skip it unless I have high confidence it's within my skill set.

Accell or Blue Streak cap and rotor?
 

Schurkey

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Before you start disassembling, use your scan tool to verify "Cam offset" or whatever your tool calls it. It's measuring the synchronization of the cam sensor signal to the crank sensor signal, in degrees. Spec is + / - 2 degrees at 1000--1200 rpm.

If your tool won't provide that info...leave the distributor in place or come up with a scan tool that does.

Based on a recommendation from a member of this forum, I bought a United Motor Products cap 'n' rotor for my '97 7.4L. The cap for the Vortec distributor is vented, which seems to be an advantage. But note that I haven't actually installed the thing--I have no direct experience with it.

I've used the Accel cap and rotor for the coil-in-cap HEI with good success. The last part I bought from Blue Streak looked pretty, and went back to the vendor because it was made in Communist China. I also returned a TBI distributor cap with MSD branding for the same reason.
 

CTX-SLPR

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All was going well till the ear snapped off of the distributor putting the new cap on!

Now have to get a new one and leave the Suburban disabled in my garage till it gets here as I'm not going to risk putting "what's available" in there to get it going again.
 

CTX-SLPR

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Frank Enstein

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What is the year of the truck. HP Tuners doesn't do much older than a 2000 model year. There are some but it's kind of spotty what it covers.
 

454cid

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Option 1: Delphi (P/N CZ20005), $251.32
Option 2: Accel Performance (P/N 59132), $180.99
Option 3: eBay Billet, $249.99
Option 4: New Napa (P/N NNDST1878), $110.20

The Delphi seems like the most reliable option as they are/where an OEM supplier. The Napa branded one is more attractive price wise but for the amount of work to get into the distributor I'm leary of it pooping out on me. It's not listed as an Echlin like the earlier noted DA100.

That Delphi looks like it's got an aluminum body..... oem wasn't aluminum, and Delphi isn't exactly the old Delphi. After the backruptcy and closing many plants, they split into two companies, Aptiv and Delphi Technologies, which has now been purchased by Borg Warner. Given that its not identical to the original, I'd guess it's not a lot different than the typical aftermarket distributor. If I were going to spend the money, I'd go for the US made billet distributor through ebay.
 
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