Air induction; hood scoops

[Ehall8702]

So, these aren't the additional 50hp that the owners claim them to be?
Damn. Have to go cancel my order.

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U only get the 50hp if u out em on with the 3m double side sticky tape! Gotta be where ppl can c u used tape to or no extra hp for u!

 

[Aparke4]

Anyone install louvers or louver panels? This was big in my Jeep XJ days and my big block makes a lot of heat... I like the 300$ cowl 2 inch hood but don't mind a little metal work for something decent looking/ cut holes and use a metal mesh behind.

 

[Supercharged111]

I've thought about this for the dually. Something like these.

https://trackspecmotorsports.com/shop-by-part/hood-louvers

 

[Schurkey]

Anyone install louvers or louver panels? This was big in my Jeep XJ days and my big block makes a lot of heat... I like the 300$ cowl 2 inch hood but don't mind a little metal work for something decent looking/ cut holes and use a metal mesh behind.

A big cowl hood that ISN'T sealed to the air cleaner will make the airflow in the engine compartment WORSE.

Louvers look '50s silly. Placed properly, they can remove some heat. They'll also drool rainwater into the engine compartment and potentially give you corrosion problems.

Cutting sheetmetal and hoping for good results is unlikely to achieve good results. FIRST thing I'd do is make sure all engine compartment ducts and seals are in place and in good condition. Second thing I'd do is put a (larger) air dam under the radiator support. Third thing I'd do is look into heat shielding--including ceramic coatings--of the exhaust manifolds/headers. And then walk away before screwing something up.

 

[Supercharged111]

A big cowl hood that ISN'T sealed to the air cleaner will make the airflow in the engine compartment WORSE.

Louvers look '50s silly. Placed properly, they can remove some heat. They'll also drool rainwater into the engine compartment and potentially give you corrosion problems.

Cutting sheetmetal and hoping for good results is unlikely to achieve good results. FIRST thing I'd do is make sure all engine compartment ducts and seals are in place and in good condition. Second thing I'd do is put a (larger) air dam under the radiator support. Third thing I'd do is look into heat shielding--including ceramic coatings--of the exhaust manifolds/headers. And then walk away before screwing something up.

If you're not hauling beyond the factory ratings, there should be ZERO mods required. Even pulling beyond GM's recommendations my water temps stay perfectly stable. I just find with the dually that merely checking oil requires gloves as everything under the hood is just nuclear hot despite coolant being 180.

 

[HotWheelsBurban]

If you're not hauling beyond the factory ratings, there should be ZERO mods required. Even pulling beyond GM's recommendations my water temps stay perfectly stable. I just find with the dually that merely checking oil requires gloves as everything under the hood is just nuclear hot despite coolant being 180.

Yes my old dodge intrepid had a transmission dipstick that was like that. If you got the car warmed up enough to accurately check the level, you'd burn your hand on it. We ended up getting one of those "Ove Glove " heat resistant mitts and it worked great.
That was one of the few things I didn't like about that car. It was so quick, a blast to drive or even ride in, and all 4 of us could be comfortable in it. My dad was 6',275, and my brother is 6'5" with big feet. You can see how we got into Suburbans lol

 

[Pinger]

If you're not hauling beyond the factory ratings, there should be ZERO mods required. Even pulling beyond GM's recommendations my water temps stay perfectly stable. I just find with the dually that merely checking oil requires gloves as everything under the hood is just nuclear hot despite coolant being 180.

Likewise. I had a briefish drive in mine a few weeks back and as I was still disconnecting the battery after every run I pulled the engine dipstick just to check the level while I was there and couldn't believe how hot it was - too hot to hold.
After a 3 mile drive this week, I poked my fingers through the grille to check my trans cooler - luke warm. It is cold here just now and the need to reinstate the first (main rad saddle) cooler remains. The engine temp gauge was showing normal temp though - in 3 miles! - and that was really gentle driving. I read on this forum that 'these trucks get up to heat quickly and hold it for the rest of the day'. No lies there!

 

[Erik the Awful]

please dont buy 3-row aluminum radiators:

Back in the day, when aluminum radiators were still rare and expensive, three and four row brass radiators were a good upgrade. I still have a three-row RX-7 radiator on my shelf that I wouldn't hesitate to put in a car. That said, aluminum radiators are cheaper and lighter. Aluminum is less effective than brass at heat transfer, but the "High Efficiency" design used in aluminum radiators makes up for it.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/1304cct-how-to-select-a-radiator/

What you should be looking at is core thickness, and between two radiators with the same core thickness, a two row will outperform a three row. Also, past a certain thickness the efficiency of the radiator goes down. The incoming air is heated by the front edge of the radiator so that the back edge of the radiator is trying to cool with heat-saturated air.

 

[Supercharged111]

Likewise. I had a briefish drive in mine a few weeks back and as I was still disconnecting the battery after every run I pulled the engine dipstick just to check the level while I was there and couldn't believe how hot it was - too hot to hold.
After a 3 mile drive this week, I poked my fingers through the grille to check my trans cooler - luke warm. It is cold here just now and the need to reinstate the first (main rad saddle) cooler remains. The engine temp gauge was showing normal temp though - in 3 miles! - and that was really gentle driving. I read on this forum that 'these trucks get up to heat quickly and hold it for the rest of the day'. No lies there!

The 350 Vortec has a coolant bypass that really makes a noticeable difference in how quickly it warms up. My 454 has that same feature, but takes noticeably longer to warm up. More metal I guess? But it makes more heat too. . .

 

[Pinger]

What you should be looking at is core thickness, and between two radiators with the same core thickness, a two row will outperform a three row. Also, past a certain thickness the efficiency of the radiator goes down. The incoming air is heated by the front edge of the radiator so that the back edge of the radiator is trying to cool with heat-saturated air.

Which is why I've never understood why one radiator is placed in front of another radiator as with AC rads. In the case of AC rads I can only guess that the air that has passed through it isn't so very hot. The disruption of air flow is still there though.