Air induction; hood scoops

[Pinger]

When you take the front grill off on the passanger side there is a plastic like funnel directing air into the fender. It's very front kinda under the lights if I remember correctly. I ran my 4 high wires through this spot.But unfortunately I have no pics.

Al

Can I help with that?

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It is so big I was working right next to it and never even noticed it!

 

[Pinger]

https://www.cjponyparts.com/resources/hood-scoop-types#what
Assuming that the print below in bold is true, does anyone know if the operation of a GMT400 throttle body is similar enough to that of a carburetor that the added pressure created by increased air hood scoop create problems?

Functional hood scoops are situated in a high-pressure area of the hood. At higher rates of speed, more air will enter the hood scoop, and it will be moving at a higher velocity as it does. This cooler, denser air is responsible for the performance boost associated with hood scoops. In order to “catch” this air, the hood scoop needs to have an opening that’s high enough to clear the boundary layer around your car.

Engines rely on fuel and air to propel your car. Fuel is easy to increase, but it’s harder to increase the air intake or to get more power from each combustion. Hood scoops are an easy way to increase the air intake and also to ensure that the air being used is a desirable temperature or pressure for optimal combustion. In short, hood scoops function much the same way as cold air intakes, but they can be combined with cold air intakes for even greater power gains.
installing a hood scoop can be a serious problem for your engine. If you have a carburetor, then a Ram Air hood scoop could cause serious harm to the inner workings of your car if you don’t take the proper precautions.

I'd guess that with any increase in manifold pressure, the fuel pressure regulator will increase fuel pressure to compensate.
A carb should do the same providing the float chamber see the same pressure as the mouth of the carb. This is what was done with some early turbo systems - encase the entire carb(s) in a plenum and subject the float chamber to the same pressure.

 

[SuperTramp]

Thanks for the picture. Now I’m wondering what simple alterations can be made to increase the air way and air flow

IDEA: has anyone thought through the idea of cutting a hole in the fire wall furthest from the cab, to direct air under the hood? Just Continuing with that train of thought, a pipe could be attached into the hole and directed to cold air intake or... redirecting the air to under the hood needs to be thought through. Possibly, there could be a way to direct the air down through the cowl with a small, curved piece appropriate 6-8” long and 2-3” tall. I’d imagine some traditionalists are chuckling about now. However, some version of this design may accomplish the objective without changing the look of the truck. I welcome your thoughts and ideas.

 

[Supercharged111]

Intake inside is gonna be LOUD. If you do use a cowl or a scoop to feed the engine, make sure that's its only purpose. Running an open cowl good to "cool" the engine bay will do the opposite, it'll stall airflow across the radiator. Just get a tune from Blackbeard, toss the throttle body lip, and get a decent flowing exhaust on that thing if you want to boost performance. The factory inlet at the core support supplies fresh, cool air to the engine and, at highway speeds, that location is likely a (relatively) high pressure area. The fender plumbing may be a little restrictive, but only above 3000 RPM.

 

[Schurkey]

GM did all the work for you. All you have to do is NOT SCREW IT UP.

 

[thegawd]

How about some fender vents on the passanger side fender?

I personally dont think changing the oem set up will gain much without further mods and programming (which requires more mods) Simply because the computer makes adjustments accordingly. I'm also pretty sure this set up is considered a cold air intake and not much is gained by messing with it unless your at wide open throttle. But I'm far from an expert and my trucks are mostly stock. I just run a good non oiled air filter and make sure it stays clean.

Al

 

[Donald Mitchell]

Your overthinking it.

 

[stutaeng]

Yeah, if you are thinking about "keeping cool" focus on cooling system. Fluids are way better at transferring energy, in this case, heat from a thermodynamic perspective than air.

Where an air-cooled engine would be better than water-cooled would be simplicity. That's it. I mean, you don't have a VW Beetle under your hood, right?

If you have the towing option from the factory, then you have engine oil cooler, transmission cooler and power steering cooler. If not, then add those.

These GMT 400s worked/work very well for towing and hauling. About the only improvement I can think of is using a 7.4 radiator, as that was thicker.

Maybe compare cooling system to 3500HDs GMT 400. Those trucks were like GVWR of 15,000 lbs, and a lot of them were equipped with 5.7s.

Put some new coolant and inspect hoses and check thermostat/radiator.

 

[SuperTramp]

Thank you guys for your insights. I agree with you.


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[454cid]

Yeah, if you are thinking about "keeping cool" focus on cooling system. Fluids are way better at transferring energy, in this case, heat from a thermodynamic perspective than air.

Where an air-cooled engine would be better than water-cooled would be simplicity. That's it. I mean, you don't have a VW Beetle under your hood, right?

If you have the towing option from the factory, then you have engine oil cooler, transmission cooler and power steering cooler. If not, then add those.

These GMT 400s worked/work very well for towing and hauling. About the only improvement I can think of is using a 7.4 radiator, as that was thicker.

Agreed. The 454 radiator is also taller (I didn't think it was thicker, but ok). The larger radiator will need a new shroud, and brackets.

Maybe compare cooling system to 3500HDs GMT 400. Those trucks were like GVWR of 15,000 lbs, and a lot of them were equipped with 5.7s.

The opposite is my understanding. Possibly some early HDs were 350's but most of them are swaps. Typically they are 454s or 6.5L diesels. 2001 and 2002's were 6.5's or 8.1's. The 3500 radiator has a taller filler neck that woun't fit under the hood of a pickup. I don't think the core is any larger any way. I don't know what the 8.1 radiator is like, but I think the diesel uses larger hoses.