Rider's '94 K1500 Ecsb aka "Vegas"

[Darkrider]

The plan was to keep the stock keys in. Mostly looking at it for the benefit of dropping the front diff to correct the CV angles. And to correct the Balljoint angles with the UCAs

 

[ChrisAU]

Yes but it makes the lower ball joints, tie rod ends, and sway bar links have worse angles than a torsion bar crank. And to install that kit you will have to at least take the pressure off the torsion bars which requires them to be "adjusted."

 

[Darkrider]

Ok all valid points. See its stuff like this i need explained to me so i can understand why someone would be against the idea. Just throwing statements out like: "dont run this kit or dont run keys" without further reasoning behind it doesnt help. But now that its been fully explained it makes sense. However what if i were to run this kit without the UCAs? just run the factory arms and be taking advantage of the lowered diff up front?

 

[ChrisAU]

Well that would be interesting...it would help your CV axles IF you cranked 1.5" past stock and then dropped the diff 1.5". However, a 1.5" crank would not ride very well and certainly wouldn't be nice to front end parts.

Dropping the diff without shortening the CV's would put stress on the CV's unless you cranked a proportionate amount to the diff drop. They are designed to operate at stock specs. So if its reliability you are searching for, its really just stock or a full drop kit that addresses all components.


Just SAS that ho and don't do extra lift springs. It has been done and it is awesome. 3" of lift, and no more front end IFS crap!

 

[Darkrider]

Ok once again thank you for the reasoning behind it all. As for SAS...i have yet to see a method that sets the truck up less then 6" of lift....Believe me the thought has been kicked around several times. I even have a donor suburban lined up. To be honest im either just gonna crank it 1" up front to level it and call it good or eventually sas it. Ultimately i can for see cranking it 1" to level and running Bushwaker cut out flares to open up the wheel wells for 285/70R17s. The cut out flares only if needed..but i suspect i may need them with aftermarket wheels having different offsets.

 

[ChrisAU]

I think you'd be fine with 285/70/17's with minor crank and very minor to no trimming on the bumper, without any cut-out flares.

 

[Darkrider]

Took some pics of the truck today with my phone and my Nikon camera. will post the camera pics in a bit once i get some time to upload and resize them on the comp.

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Here are the wheels and tires i plan on running

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[Rewind]

I like those wheels!!!

 

[Darkrider]

I like those wheels!!!

Thanks! It was a toss up between the Chrome or the Black versions. in a way im half tempted to order the black ones and see if i can order the center caps from the chrome version seperately.

 

[Rewind]

Or maybe the chrome with the black center caps?????????