So... I did it

[sewlow]

In simple mans terms, its almost bulletproof

'Almost bulletproof'. I've blown one up! It blowed up reeeeaaaalll good! Lol!

Ported Frankenstien...Nice find! Good lookin' truck!

 

[sewlow]

So, I've got an overhead console that I bought awhile agi, for the yukon, but never got around to installing it. I'm curious if this truck will have the holes under the headliner already to install it on, like the yukon does?

It's only the reg. cabs do not have the O/H console mounting holes.

 

[frito-bandito]

It's only the reg. cabs do not have the O/H console mounting holes.

Really? If so, that's great news!

 

[Portedfrankenstien]

It's only the reg. cabs do not have the O/H console mounting holes.

I thought that's what I had read on here before, on the overhead console thread. I didn't pay it too much attention, because I already had a yukon, with no intention of getting a new truck.

 

[Mangonesailor]

So, I've got an overhead console that I bought awhile agi, for the yukon, but never got around to installing it. I'm curious if this truck will have the holes under the headliner already to install it on, like the yukon does?

They have the mounting holes in the roof for it. I put an overhead console in mine.

Poke around with a thick paper clip to mount your holes...

You must be registered for see images attach

And put it up there!

You must be registered for see images attach

You will need the front insert for the screw in the forward most hole from a tahoe/burb. Unless you have a nut-sert kit then a #10 insert will work just fine in there (this is what I did).

Well, the new wheels are a bust, unfortunately. The guy I got them from, took them off of his ford. When I put them on the balancer, and it wanted 31.5 ounces on one side, I took the wheel off, and realized he had taken a grinder to the hub holes, to make them fit his ford. When I put them on, they don't even make contact at any point with my hubs, so the entire weight of the truck is on the lug studs. So they are coming back off, and the steelies will have to go back on. On a lighter note, they do look good on the truck, though. But they come off tomorrow.

You're probably over the wheels, but if they fit his Ford then the lug pattern was wrong anyways. If he tightened down the lugs on them he likely ruined the seating surfaces. My truck came with an extra set of 20s with rubber band tires, as well as some crappy aftermarket wheels. Come to find out the lug pattern was wrong on both sets and I had already driven the truck on the highway a couple of times.

The chevy size is SAE, the ford is metric. If i recall correctly its a couple of mms in diameter difference. Puts a lot of shear load on the studs...

You said earlier that your truck takes an hour to start. Your FPR, and likely your injectors are FUBAR. Get a set of the "Blue knight" injectors from 5-0 motorsports and a delphi FPR and you should be good to go. Fuel pressure rail is plastic, be gentle with it or you're out another $100-150.

 

[frito-bandito]

You're probably over the wheels, but if they fit his Ford then the lug pattern was wrong anyways. If he tightened down the lugs on them he likely ruined the seating surfaces. My truck came with an extra set of 20s with rubber band tires, as well as some crappy aftermarket wheels. Come to find out the lug pattern was wrong on both sets and I had already driven the truck on the highway a couple of times.

The chevy size is SAE, the ford is metric. If i recall correctly its a couple of mms in diameter difference. Puts a lot of shear load on the studs...

.

Great advice for me cause I was contemplating trying out a set of Ford wheels for mine, thanks for helping me dodge that bullet!

 

[Portedfrankenstien]

They have the mounting holes in the roof for it. I put an overhead console in mine.

Poke around with a thick paper clip to mount your holes...

You must be registered for see images attach

And put it up there!

You must be registered for see images attach

You will need the front insert for the screw in the forward most hole from a tahoe/burb. Unless you have a nut-sert kit then a #10 insert will work just fine in there (this is what I did).



You're probably over the wheels, but if they fit his Ford then the lug pattern was wrong anyways. If he tightened down the lugs on them he likely ruined the seating surfaces. My truck came with an extra set of 20s with rubber band tires, as well as some crappy aftermarket wheels. Come to find out the lug pattern was wrong on both sets and I had already driven the truck on the highway a couple of times.

The chevy size is SAE, the ford is metric. If i recall correctly its a couple of mms in diameter difference. Puts a lot of shear load on the studs...

You said earlier that your truck takes an hour to start. Your FPR, and likely your injectors are FUBAR. Get a set of the "Blue knight" injectors from 5-0 motorsports and a delphi FPR and you should be good to go. Fuel pressure rail is plastic, be gentle with it or you're out another $100-150.

Yeah, I've got a new fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, spark plugs. I now have a set of factory GM injectors on the way. I really was hoping they would be ok, because I've done them on the vortech 350s, and it's time consuming. I've never messed with these 7.4L ones, though. It definitely feels like it has a fuel delivery problem, but I have not tested the pressure yet. It definitely has a factory GM pump in it thouh, because you can hear it from a mile away.

 

[Mangonesailor]

I now have a set of factory GM injectors on the way.

Those things are not worth the money. Even if they are "rebuilt" they are historically junk. Witchhunter's website even specifically calls them out as junk and will not even attempt to clean them if you sent them in.

I really was hoping they would be ok, because I've done them on the vortech 350s, and it's time consuming. I've never messed with these 7.4L ones, though. It definitely feels like it has a fuel delivery problem, but I have not tested the pressure yet. It definitely has a factory GM pump in it thouh, because you can hear it from a mile away.

It'll be different under the plenum of the 454. I'd pick up a MAP sensor to replace while you're under there. Mine was full of crap. Just the life of an EGR'd vehicle I guess. You'll need 13mm wrenches, 9/16 socket (or 14mm), two 1-3/16 wrenches (or a combo of knipex and cresent) for the EGR tube, 5/8 and 1/2" flare nut wrenches, and I think a 10mm or 3/8" socket.

Make sure you get o-rings for the fuel lines on the rail.

The GM delphi pumps only last till about 100kmi anyways, so yes, it'd a good idea to go ahead and swap it out.

Here's some pictures of what you'll see taking things apart.

 

[thz71]

Fords had the same bolt pattern until 97

 

[frito-bandito]

Fords had the same bolt pattern until 97

That figures because the only affordable rims on CL around here are Ford metrics