Will someone help me interpret my TunerPro output so I know if I should load the parts cannon?

[Sabinoerc]

I don’t have as much experience with TunerPro as Playwithtbi so can’t help much there. However, after going thru the TunerPro learning curve and trying to hunt down a studder, occasional rough idle - only to eventually find that my fuel pressure was marginal, I’d suggest verifying your fuel pressure is solid if you haven’t already done so.
Good luck!

 

[ninety1500]

Thank you all for the help. I have read the fuel filters are notorious for getting clogged so that's a piece I want to do also. Is there a fuel pressure sensor or meter that you used and would recommend @Sabinoerc

 

[ninety1500]

You could consider an NGK, NTK. They talk about their O2 sensors being manufactured appropriate for OBD 1 systems.
Did temp reading ever get to normal operating temp around 195 something?

I will check on that, just the coolant temp I'm looking for? And thank you for NGK suggestion....now I'm debating if I want to do a 3 write conversion!

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Is there a fuel pressure sensor or meter that you used and would recommend @Sabinoerc

Here's what I did with mine. I got mine from RV Morse Machine but, he passed a couple years ago but, you can find the parts online. I also got an AFPR (red thumb wheel) from him.

You must be registered for see images attach

Here's what it looks like installed after a couple years.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Schurkey]

WHAT VEHICLE? The 1990 GMC Sierra 5.7L Automatic in your signature, or something else?


I wouldn't know TunerPro from Tina Turner.

- Pretty strong smell of "running rich". I hope this data will prove that but I definitely smell the exhaust and my wife hates it lol

"Smelling rich" is nearly always some amount of misfire, coupled to a failed (poisoned, melted, broken, "murdered") catalytic converter. Actual "rich" running has to be enormously rich to produce "rich smell". Any reasonable amount of "richness" drives the CO sky-high, but CO is colorless and odorless. No funny smell.

- Rough idle (sometimes), stutters, stalls out on rare occasions

More evidence of misfire.

Misfire is generally interpreted by the O2 sensor as a false-lean condition, leading to additional fuel added via the fuel trims. Even so, the "rich smell" is usually evidence of the misfire, not the added fuel.

- A little slow to start, but nothing TOO crazy

What is the fuel pressure during the prime cycle? What is the fuel pressure during high-demand use?

It smells rich (I'm hoping the fix doesn't make me poor ), and it stutters sometimes and feels like it's going to stall. I notice if I take my foot off the gas that's when it will stutter. Coming up to a stop light for instance I always worry about it. But giving it a lot of gas at once (turning into traffic) or if I tried to floor it just to see, it will often stutter then too.

The only thing I've changed so far is the battery

Verify ALL the "tune-up" items--initial timing, cap, rotor, plug wires, plugs, PCV system, EGR system, charcoal canister, heated-air intake.

Verify ALL the sensors especially O2 but all the rest in general; and computer outputs--short- and long-term fuel trims, electronic timing advance, IAC, EGR solenoid, AIR diversion if used, etc.

Make sure the outlet of the catalyst is hotter than the inlet. If not, expect to replace the catalyst AFTER you get the engine running properly otherwise.

 

[ninety1500]

Here's what I did with mine. I got mine from RV Morse Machine but, he passed a couple years ago but, you can find the parts online. I also got an AFPR (red thumb wheel) from him.

You must be registered for see images attach

Here's what it looks like installed after a couple years.

You must be registered for see images attach

Wow that's GORGEOUS! I'm not trying to do anything performance related and I still want that just because it looks amazing!! How much would you say the parts cost to add in the pressure sensor and regulator?

 

[ninety1500]

WHAT VEHICLE? The 1990 GMC Sierra 5.7L Automatic in your signature, or something else?


I wouldn't know TunerPro from Tina Turner.

"Smelling rich" is nearly always some amount of misfire, coupled to a failed (poisoned, melted, broken, "murdered") catalytic converter. Actual "rich" running has to be enormously rich to produce "rich smell". Any reasonable amount of "richness" drives the CO sky-high, but CO is colorless and odorless. No funny smell.


More evidence of misfire.

Misfire is generally interpreted by the O2 sensor as a false-lean condition, leading to additional fuel added via the fuel trims. Even so, the "rich smell" is usually evidence of the misfire, not the added fuel.


What is the fuel pressure during the prime cycle? What is the fuel pressure during high-demand use?


Verify ALL the "tune-up" items--initial timing, cap, rotor, plug wires, plugs, PCV system, EGR system, charcoal canister, heated-air intake.

Verify ALL the sensors especially O2 but all the rest in general; and computer outputs--short- and long-term fuel trims, electronic timing advance, IAC, EGR solenoid, AIR diversion if used, etc.

Make sure the outlet of the catalyst is hotter than the inlet. If not, expect to replace the catalyst AFTER you get the engine running properly otherwise.

Thank you for that! The details are all very helpful as I'm working through this. I really need to figure out the fuel pressure situation so I can give a realistic answer on that. My answer currently is "I have no idea" so I need to find a way to read the pressure. Hopefully one that doesn't totally break the bank since I won't really be checking fuel pressure on any other cars.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

How much would you say the parts cost to add in the pressure sensor and regulator?

IIRC I paid ~$130 total with the 30LB gauge. The AFPR was the most expensive part. Here's a web sight that carries TBI stuff, including the adapter you want. If you're gonna run stock, the 15PSI gauge will work fine for you.
www.marine-performance-parts.com/gmtbiperformance.aspx

CFM Technologies

CFM Technologies sells and manufacturers Magazine + TV Featured performance parts for GM TBI , Throttle Body Injection, along with custom carburetor spacers and the famous HVH Super Sucker Carb Spacers.

marine-performance-parts.com

 

[Schurkey]

I really need to figure out the fuel pressure situation so I can give a realistic answer on that... ...I need to find a way to read the pressure. Hopefully one that doesn't totally break the bank since I won't really be checking fuel pressure on any other cars.

Don't buy one, get a fuel pressure tester from the "Loaner Tools" program at a local parts store. Typically, you "buy" the thing, use it, return it within 24 hours, or maybe 48 hours, and they give you your money back.

 

[Sabinoerc]

Thank you all for the help. I have read the fuel filters are notorious for getting clogged so that's a piece I want to do also. Is there a fuel pressure sensor or meter that you used and would recommend @Sabinoerc

I bought this https://actron.com/content/gm-tbi-fuel-pressure-tester. Best location is after fuel filter where you can release clips to TBI to get some space for the adapter. If I drove the truck regularly/ wasn’t so lazy I’d put a permanent gage by TBI like playwtbi and others have done.
I think you can get something that works at harbor freight or loaner from auto parts place.
here is old thread on options https://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/253427

good luck!