Open request to help interpret TunerPro recorded log

[Scooterwrench]

I think I read it in a Chilton manual years ago to test a KS you tap near the sensor with a small hammer or ratchet handle and watch and listen for the timing to retard. The idle will slow as the timing retards. I think you can turn off your KS or lower its sensitivity using TunerPro but you will have to burn a chip to do that.

 

[Moss]

Alright, got a buddy with a timing light to help out.

I took a single frame from a video taken during the light test so it's a little over-exposed, but you can still see the mark in relation to the notches.

Looks like its at 7 degrees (advanced?)
When he set his timing light to 7 degrees it was in the middle of the largest cutout.

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Above pic I drew the line for visibility, below is the overexposed pic is taken from the video

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And for the test I unplugged this tan wire w/ black line located behind glove box. Easily accessible.

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[PlayingWithTBI]

Looks like its at 7 degrees (advanced?)

Yeah, 7° is a little too much, I've run it at ~4° before and it kinda liked it. After thinking about it, I don't think your KS is the issue because the PCM is pulling timing down to ~8° during acceleration (not even WOT). I'd look elsewhere.

 

[Moss]

The timing light friend mentioned he's seen the gear at the bottom of the distributor wearing on these trucks- would that cause (or add to) any of these issues?

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

he's seen the gear at the bottom of the distributor wearing on these trucks- would that cause (or add to) any of these issues?

I doubt it.

 

[Scooterwrench]

Worn gear would be like a stretched chain and retard the timing. Did you reset the timing? With the base timing at 0 if you still get knock counts listen carefully for any motor knocks that would set off the KS especially when it starts acting up. Even a bad motor mount will rattle it. If the motor is old and loose and rattling you may want to consider a little heavier oil. I see your up there in the great white north so 10w-40 would be as heavy as you would want to run in the winter. I'm in the same boat with you,I'm running a worn out 305 with 20w-50 and antisieze in the crankcase until I can get my other motor dropped in.

 

[Scooterwrench]

The timing light friend mentioned he's seen the gear at the bottom of the distributor wearing on these trucks- would that cause (or add to) any of these issues?

When you replaced the cap how did the magnetic pickup look inside?

 

[Moss]

Worn gear would be like a stretched chain and retard the timing. Did you reset the timing? With the base timing at 0 if you still get knock counts listen carefully for any motor knocks that would set off the KS especially when it starts acting up. Even a bad motor mount will rattle it. If the motor is old and loose and rattling you may want to consider a little heavier oil. I see your up there in the great white north so 10w-40 would be as heavy as you would want to run in the winter. I'm in the same boat with you,I'm running a worn out 305 with 20w-50 and antisieze in the crankcase until I can get my other motor dropped in.

I have not reset the timing, the timing light had to go back to the shop and we didn't have time for me to run and get a crow's foot socket to reach that bolt under the distributor. Hoping to in the coming days here.

Should I set it back to 0 degrees? Could there have been a reason a previous owner would have set it so far advanced?

As for oil, I've been hesitant to go thicker since my oil pressure is so high...but lately I'm wondering how accurate that actually is. If the dash gauge is off or something of the sort.

When you replaced the cap how did the magnetic pickup look inside?

I am not familiar with what that is. Looking it up, it doesn't look like anything we checked or that I remember looking at.

The underside of the cap did have corrosion on each contact.

 

[Scooterwrench]

I have not reset the timing, the timing light had to go back to the shop and we didn't have time for me to run and get a crow's foot socket to reach that bolt under the distributor. Hoping to in the coming days here.

Should I set it back to 0 degrees? Could there have been a reason a previous owner would have set it so far advanced?

I wouldn't go over 4deg and in your case I think starting off at 0 would be smart.

As for oil, I've been hesitant to go thicker since my oil pressure is so high...but lately I'm wondering how accurate that actually is. If the dash gauge is off or something of the sort.

The oil pump has a pressure relief valve to keep it from over pressurizing.

I am not familiar with what that is. Looking it up, it doesn't look like anything we checked or that I remember looking at.

Did you replace the rotor?

The underside of the cap did have corrosion on each contact.

 

[Moss]

Did you replace the rotor?

Yep, distributor cap and rotor.