Will someone help me interpret my TunerPro output so I know if I should load the parts cannon?

[ninety1500]

Thank you so much in advance y'all! So I was able to get TunerPro RT working and I went for a 10 or 15 minute drive in the old gal. I did not have any codes when I checked with the paperclip method.

Some of the "issues" that concern me:
- Pretty strong smell of "running rich". I hope this data will prove that but I definitely smell the exhaust and my wife hates it lol
- Rough idle (sometimes), stutters, stalls out on rare occasions
- A little slow to start, but nothing TOO crazy

Those are the major ones. It smells rich (I'm hoping the fix doesn't make me poor ), and it stutters sometimes and feels like it's going to stall. I notice if I take my foot off the gas that's when it will stutter. Coming up to a stop light for instance I always worry about it. But giving it a lot of gas at once (turning into traffic) or if I tried to floor it just to see, it will often stutter then too.

The only thing I've changed so far is the battery is brand new (thanks for leaving me stranded AT THE DMV when I switched the title. The last place you want to be stuck!). I'm holding off on all other parts so far.

I appreciate everyone so much and I know your time is valuable. I am attaching the relevant files here but please let me know if there's anything specific that I can do to help. I don't really know what to look for in the logs (.xdl file) The attached zip contains my .adx, .xdf, and the .xdl file created from my drive.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Pretty strong smell of "running rich". I hope this data will prove that but I definitely smell the exhaust and my wife hates it lol

it actually looks like you're running too lean with your BLM showing 172 most of the time. Other than that I can't tell you much. See the other numbers in red? Unfortunately for the 1227747 .xdf you need to load the "Patch" for that so your RPM and Injector DC make sense (see picture below)

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Here's an example of the "Patches" upgrade. Do you have the capability to "burn" your PROM with the "Patches"? This way, if you want to, you can add HLC and EGR delete too. YMMV. Unfortunately I can't remember how to add that Parameter, it's been too long ago. Maybe someone else can explain it but, it's not hard at all, you just need a way to modify your .bin on your chip.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[ninety1500]

it actually looks like you're running too lean with your BLM showing 172 most of the time

I thought I saw that it was lean in the output also! I'm glad I'm not going crazy. It absolutely doesn't smell lean...I wonder if the O2 sensor is shot.

Here's an example of the "Patches" upgrade. Do you have the capability to "burn" your PROM with the "Patches"? This way, if you want to, you can add HLC and EGR delete too. YMMV. Unfortunately I can't remember how to add that Parameter, it's been too long ago. Maybe someone else can explain it but, it's not hard at all, you just need a way to modify your .bin on your chip.

I don't believe I have a device that can write to the chip, unless it's extremely basic and done through the ALDL like I pulled TunerPro but I think it's more involved than that.
Thank you for always helping out @PlayingWithTBI! I really appreciate it. I will see if anyone else has an explanation of burning the .bin.

 

[GoToGuy]

How old is the O2, if it's not switching fast quickly, might be getting lazy , slow, fast easy fix.

 

[GoToGuy]

This was a normal conditions run? Will the engine temp being low cause a commanded rich condition?

 

[ninety1500]

This was a normal conditions run? Will the engine temp being low cause a commanded rich condition?

This was just me driving. It normally. I was finally able to get the scanner hooked up to the computer. So I just took it on a ten or fifteen minute ride.

I just recently bought the truck. So I don't know exactly how old the O2 sensor is. But I would imagine it is probably a little bit older.I will probably change it only because I because I don't know how old is, so I'm going to consider that kind of a tune up item. I just wanted to make sure there was nothing jumping out that someone else with more experience can see.

Thanks for the reply @GoToGuy !!

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

How old is the O2, if it's not switching fast quickly, might be getting lazy , slow, fast easy fix.

Cross counts looked good with 234 in my screen shot. I watched it switching on the playback but, that doesn't mean the sensor can be bad. If it's old - ditch it for $hits and giggles anyway.

 

[ninety1500]

Cross counts looked good with 234 in my screen shot. I watched it switching on the playback but, that doesn't mean the sensor can be bad. If it's old - ditch it for $hits and giggles anyway.

That's what I'm thinking....it shouldn't hurt to have a new one and it's pretty cheap. Now it's just figure out the bosch vs AC delco debate.

 

[PlayingWithTBI]

Now it's just figure out the bosch vs AC delco debate.

IDK if it really matters that much anymore, unless you can find a USA made AC Delco. Now may be a good time to decide if you wanna go to a 3-wire instead.

FYI - I found a "GM Genuine Original" made in USA, so it says

www.amazon.com/Genuine-Parts-55498433-Airflow-Sensor/dp/B000C9RRA0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=O2+sensor&qid=1701627138&sr=1-3&vehicle=1988-47-424-440-29-31-11-7-4572-483-8-2-141-90-4&vehicleName=1988+Chevrolet+C1500

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[GoToGuy]

You could consider an NGK, NTK. They talk about their O2 sensors being manufactured appropriate for OBD 1 systems.
Did temp reading ever get to normal operating temp around 195 something?