Bought a used dash...not sure I'm gonna use it.

[Erik the Awful]

Overall the top looks good, I'm just concerned about its overall "health" and have my doubts about how long it might last.

Paint it with some vinyl paint. That will help stop the UV degradation. All my plastic bits that I painted with Duplicolor vinyl paint are tougher than the unpainted pieces. The paint also lays over the top of the plastic, so it'll take all the UV rays while the underlying plastic stays protected.

If I were any nearer to you, I'd make a bid on that dash. If I get around to rehabbing the interior on my son's truck to sell it, I'll need to replace the dash.

 

[someotherguy]

Paint it with some vinyl paint. That will help stop the UV degradation. All my plastic bits that I painted with Duplicolor vinyl paint are tougher than the unpainted pieces. The paint also lays over the top of the plastic, so it'll take all the UV rays while the underlying plastic stays protected.

Sounds reasonable. What product do you recommend?

I also plan on ordering a HeatShield windshield reflector for it. I use one on my '06 and it seems to cover well and has been pretty durable. Eventually the side and rear windows will get tinted so that will cut down on the UV, too.

Richard

 

[Erik the Awful]

Either Duplicolor or SEM. Make sure and use a flat or satin finish on top so you don't get a reflection on your windshield. WCJr's top is gloss, and it's annoying. Roscoe's top is painted flat black.

 

[someotherguy]

Either Duplicolor or SEM. Make sure and use a flat or satin finish on top so you don't get a reflection on your windshield. WCJr's top is gloss, and it's annoying. Roscoe's top is painted flat black.

I've used SEM Color Coat and their adhesion promoter, is this the same type of product you're talking about? I don't think in this scenario I'd use the adhesion promoter as it's meant to help the paint adhere to bare plastic (like the molded-in color parts other than the dash) where the dash is already painted by OEM.

Richard

 

[Scooterwrench]

Acetone,carb/brake cleaner,lacquer thinner are all adhesion promoters. Your actually softening the surface which allows the paint to melt in to the surface for lack of a better term.

 

[454cid]

Acetone,carb/brake cleaner,lacquer thinner are all adhesion promoters. Your actually softening the surface which allows the paint to melt in to the surface for lack of a better term.

Acetone will wipe the color off.... at least it did on my 69 LeSabre when I got a little on the dash while removing sticker residue from the windshield.

 

[Hipster]

So the dash in my '93 is obliterated. I mean, 100% unsavable, there's hardly anything left on top, it's so brittle it has shattered into millions of pieces. I have a cheap cover on top of it but the whole dash shakes while driving since it's not attached at the top at all.

Really having a tough time shelling out $600 for the LMC repro (that's about what it costs once it arrives with tax and shipping included - dash is $450, tax 44.76, shipping 92.50 = $587.21) then still gotta prep and paint it and move ALL my parts over to it after prepping and painting them as well, so it'll all match.

Instead, I bought a used dash.. paid less, but not enough less to feel happy about it. It's got some damage. Broken at the top right next to the edge of the driver speaker grille (very common spot I've seen these dashes break) and broken behind the center A/C vent/stereo panel, will probably be hidden by that panel. Has a few spiderweb cracks around various screws. Overall the top looks good, I'm just concerned about its overall "health" and have my doubts about how long it might last.

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I can probably live with the worn color areas and scuffs/scratches it has without bothering to repaint it. It "matches" my beater of a truck, ya know? But I'm wondering what is the best path for me to take in attempting to repair the break by the speaker, and the break below the center A/C vent panel since that's also a "support" area.

Or just say F it and spend $600 on an LMC dash and sell this one along, yet more accurately described than by the dude I got it from..

Richard

I don't often recommend plasric repair dual cartidge epoxies but they have a plastic cloth backer/mesh that can be used in conjuction. Just prep the back side and clamp accordingly. I'll clamp some vice grips covered with some saran wrap/wax paper until the epoxy on the backside sets.You can glue the crack with crazy glue type(poly acrylate?) quick fix, and reinforce the back without adding tremendous thickness. Glue it and epoxy/backer with a spreader or acid brush. The backer material is self stick like tape usually. Scotchbrite the back, degreaser, alcohol wipe, read the directions, etc.

 

[Scooterwrench]

Acetone will wipe the color off.... at least it did on my 69 LeSabre when I got a little on the dash while removing sticker residue from the windshield.

Yes it will. You have to be careful with solvents once the part is painted. No different than the paint on the outside of the vehicle.

 

[Erik the Awful]

Get a fine-bristled brush (I use a horsehair brush) and scrub the dash with Barkeeps Friend. Rinse, dry, and paint it. Done.

I just painted Roscoe's door panels this weekend, and I shot video that I'll be uploading on YurToob.

 

[KleenScottsdale]

I have successfully reinforced brittle plastic pieces with JB weld. I've made patterns from cardboard (30 pack beer boxes, not corrugated) cut some thin metal with tin snips, drill some retention holes into the metal, then epoxy into place on the backside.