96 and 97 K1500's.
Both trucks still have the factory "driving lights" feature that come on as soon as I turn the key on.
BIG difference between "Driving lights" and "Damned Daytime Running Lights" (DDRL).
Driving lights are like high beams on steroids.
DDRLs are useless and annoying. They're a nanny-state, regulatory wet-dream.
Shurkey and others have mentioned too high of a voltage can contribute to shorter bulb life.
Depending on where you live--and therefore what "rules" are in place, headlights are rated for BRIGHTNESS at 12.8 volts (North America) or 13.2 volts (Not NA). Thus the 12.8 volts printed on the boxes.
However, they're rated for SERVICE LIFE at 13.2, or at 14 volts. A small increase in voltage results in substantially more light output, but cuts the bulb life in half. They're talking 5% more voltage = 20% more light, and 50% less service life.
www.carlightblog.com/2012/08/16/the-critical-1-5-volts-high-on-board-voltage-short-lamp-life/
Numerous questions and comments have indicated to us that a lot of drivers are interested in the service life of halogen lamps in car headlights. In this third part of our series, we discuss the influence of operating voltage. Conventional AA batteries and many others have 1.5 volts. That’s not...
www.carlightblog.com
The best single-source of headlight info is
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/home.html
You guys have any ideas or is it a function that Sylvanias actually do have a short lifespan?
Yes, as has been mentioned--high-output "boutique" bulbs can have crappy service life.
In the course of replacing my bulbs, I found I could rattle the relays and the headlights would flicker--my ChiCom relay box--and especially the connectors the relay spades slide into--are junk. Do any of you fine citizens have a good source for a quality relay and fuse box with decent connectors?
I would appreciate any helpful info......
I bought a bunch of relays and connectors; I'm probably set-for-life with what I have. Which is too bad, I discovered later that there are weatherproof, sealed relay-connector assemblies.
That's probably what we'd really want for this application. Next time you're at the Treasure Yard, look for fuel pump relays and their connectors. Some of them are the sealed kind.
I don’t know if this has been said but I would convert it over to an LED style bulb either way.
"Most" LED conversions are not compatible with OEM housings. Oh, sure, the thing fits inside, and glows brightly. Problem is, the OEM bulb has the filament in a certain place, and the LEDs have corncob elements. The difference in location from the filament to the multiple corncobs destroys the focus of the beam. You get lots of light--scattered randomly.
The housing has to be designed for the LED element, so the light gets directed where it needs to be, and NOT directed at oncoming traffic.