Vortec alternator upgrade

[mtl111]

It's all plug and play, same belt too. My engine is I assume the same as yours, an L31 Vortec 350 so it should be the same part number as mine. I can run headlights with a 4 Hi kit, 6 led offroad lights, ac and have the JBL Audio powered sub cranking and it keeps up with no problems.

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[RawbDidIt]

Looks like $185 on summit and jegs. Says 150amps. Long as the model 48206 should be the same right? Dont need a new belt and should be plug n play? And last I need to do the big 3 upgrade lol just having done it but after the forums I've read I know I need it. Just now I put on my high beams, ac high, wipers, radio, and fog lights and it was doing good at idle then it started to bog down and jump back then big down and jump up...

Double check the pulley size, should be the same, I always change the belt when I do upgrades like this unless it's new already. I used the stock size on mine, went in like a dream, even have a video on YouTube for it.

And yes! Do the F----ng wiring upgrade, why spend the extra money and not get any of the extra power?

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[SUBURBAN5]

True and yes planning upgrade asap just 1 thing at a time lol. Thanks everybody hopefully this powermaster still a good product, love it especially when it's from USA and last it's a cheaper route then what I was planning originally. So thanks again. Next will be the big 3 trust me just gotta make it to work and save money after this obstacle. So when I do the upgrade leave the stock grounds on or changed them out?

 

[RawbDidIt]

True and yes planning upgrade asap just 1 thing at a time lol. Thanks everybody hopefully this powermaster still a good product, love it especially when it's from USA and last it's a cheaper route then what I was planning originally. So thanks again. Next will be the big 3 trust me just gotta make it to work and save money after this obstacle. So when I do the upgrade leave the stock grounds on or changed them out?

I replaced them entirely, the terminals only have so much room for copper, so I didn't mess around with the stock ones when I had 1/0 or 4 gauge copper core going to the same place. Doesn't hurt leaving it there, but it's unnecessary, unsightly, and a pain to try and integrate in my opinion.

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[SUBURBAN5]

So on that note buy 4gauge and build the harness and cut small scraps for the grounds?

 

[RawbDidIt]

So on that note buy 4gauge and build the harness and cut small scraps for the grounds?

Harness for what?

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[L31MaxExpress]

Get a Napa 200 amp AD244 for a 2002 Tahoe. It is a bolt on with a 1" longer belt. Charged my Express conversion van perfectly with 40 amps of added load from the Tahoe electric fans. Also have 4 hi mod. Voltmeter shot was taken with EVERYTHING on at idle. High beams, A/C blowers on high speeds, all the interior lights on and the TV on as well as both of the engine cooling fans on high speed.

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[SUBURBAN5]

Harness for what?

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Basically copy the stock electrical lines from battery , fuse center, negative and positive, and ground strap locations with the 4awg?

 

[L31MaxExpress]

Forgot to add a little information. Added a remote sense wire to alternator from the input of the underhood fuse box. Charged at 14.2V at the battery after. A/C blowers blow better and the headlights were brighter. No more sluggish power windows either. Duralast AGM battery lasted 5 years, so it was not over charging it enough to hurt its life. 14.2V at the vans battery also charged the deep cycle house batteries on my travel trailer more quickly through the circuit on the trailer connector. I could leave an overnight camping spot with 1/2 charged deep cycles and arrive in a new place 4-5 hours later with fully charged house batteries. Made vacations in cooler weather off the grid much more enjoyable. Van also has a deep cycle on the frame on a 6.6 diesel van frame mounted tray. It is tied to the main battery via a GM auxiliary battery relay. Trailer house batteries charge off the auxiliary relay output in parallel to the vans house battery. I moved all the conversion van inputs to a separate fuse box powered by the house battery. I can run the conversion add on interior lighting, TV, rear radio and 3,000 watt inverter off the house battery without killing the starting battery. The only conversion van add-on circuit powered by the OEM van battery is the rear a/c. With the trailer connected the two 6v Trojan T105 225 ah golf cart deep cycle batteries in series on the nose of the trailer and the 12v 125 ah deep cycle under the van are all tied together. Gives me approximately 350 ah all together and 175 ah without going under the 50% recomended 1/2 cycle of a deep cycle. More than enough to power the LED trailer lighting, 1,100 cfm Maxair ventilation fan or heater blower, water pump for showers and dishes, my TV for a few hours, microwave for several minutes, fridge vent stack fan, and 12v cell phone chargers overnight. I have a 4,000 watt inverter hard wired in the nose of the trailer that connects to the trailer via an automatic switchover. I turn off the breaker for the converter when running on the inverter. I do not use the a/c, electric fridge heater element, or electric water heater element on inverter power. The fridge, water heater and heater are propane fired off grid and I use the propane fired stove and oven in cooler weather. The alternator charges what was used overnight on the next days run. If I connect to shore power the trailers 12v converter charges all 3 batteries. Plan to add 600 watts of solar someday soon. Will use a 12v 500 watt element in the water heater drain as a dump load for the solar charger. Just have not gotten around to install the system even though I already have ALL the parts. With the solar setup I should be able to spend several days off the grid without running the van or connecting to shore power. Quite possibly might make it self contained as far as electrical energy goes. With 60 lbs of propane on the nose I can survive in 20°F weather for several weeks if I keep the trailer about ~65°F inside.

 

[RawbDidIt]

Basically copy the stock electrical lines from battery , fuse center, negative and positive, and ground strap locations with the 4awg?

Oh, I guess that is a harness, just never thought of it that way. Grab some 4ga (that's all you need for that alternator), some copper ring terminals (some with 1/4" holes, and some 3/8"), a new set of battery terminals (I like the kind that has the bar and the 2 bolts so I can put the ring terminals on each bolt, or solder all the wire ends together and clamp them down with an impact), an in-line fuse rated for as close to your alternators rated performance as possible, some dielectric grease and a crimping tool capable of crimping 4ga connectors. You'll do a total of 5 runs to get it right and you won't have to mess with it again until it corrodes, decades down the line.

1. Ground to body <1ft. Goes right to the inner fender just like the stock one.
2. Ground to alternator mount ~2ft. This should be mounted on the front of the alternator bracket using one of the bolts that retains the alternator.
3. Ground to frame rail ~3-4ft. This mounts to the frame rail right by the starter, there's a Ground strap there that goes from chassis to cab if i recall correctly, mount your Ground on the chassis side, these bolts get corroded, so do your cleanup while you're down there.
4. Pos to alternator ~2-3ft. This is where you mount your in line fuse. The fuse replaces the fusible link that is on that line, position the fuse as close to the battery as possible.
5. Pos to engine bay fuse box. ~6-8ft. 4ga should fit in the existing channel without loom, so you can pull the old wire and cut the new one to the exact same length to avoid guesswork.

Make sure you put dielectric grease on every connection, especially the frame rail where it gets real corroded and you're not able to inspect as often. This will mitigate corrosion, but i usually inspect annually and slap more grease on it. According to my napkin math, you should need about 18 ft, I think you can grab a 25ft roll on Amazon for a decent price, and you'll have enough in case you screw up (no shame, we all do it from time to time), or in the future when you forget to inspect and maintain the connections.

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