Vortec 350 Carnage

[Edahall]

It was just a 2 bolt block so now is your chance to snag a 4 bolt and upgrade. If you have the heads fluxed, pressure checked, thoroughly flushed and decked then you may be able to use them. With the condition of that oil I wouldn't though. Those heads probably have half an inch of sludge on them.

What's the advantage of a 4 bolt block? How do I find one? What application were they used on? Were any of the Vortec 350's 4 bolt?

I'll check the heads for sludge.

 

[withoutfear33]

where you from bud? have a buddy with a 350 4 bolt main and a 4l80 attached to it for sale.. he might split them up not sure.

 

[Tempted]

What's the advantage of a 4 bolt block? How do I find one? What application were they used on? Were any of the Vortec 350's 4 bolt?

I'll check the heads for sludge.

Just a little more solid as far as the crank is concerned. 4 bolt = two main studs per side on the 3 center main caps. You do not have to find a "Vortec" block for your truck. You can use any Gen 1 small block. You will need Vortec style heads if you intend on using the factory Vortec intake and fuel system. If you use an older block you will need a mechanical fuel pump block off plate but they are about 5 bucks from Autozone.

 

[Edahall]

where you from bud? have a buddy with a 350 4 bolt main and a 4l80 attached to it for sale.. he might split them up not sure.

I live in southern Texas. I updated my profile to show my location.

Just a little more solid as far as the crank is concerned. 4 bolt = two main studs per side on the 3 center main caps. You do not have to find a "Vortec" block for your truck. You can use any Gen 1 small block. You will need Vortec style heads if you intend on using the factory Vortec intake and fuel system. If you use an older block you will need a mechanical fuel pump block off plate but they are about 5 bucks from Autozone.

Cool, good to know this information.

I also heard that Vortec heads are prone to cracking. Is there any way I can check for this visually? The vehicle has 180k miles so maybe the whole drive train is toast.

 

[Hezsus]

Unless you know someone or are someone that can rebuild an engine i'd suggest a crate engine, The cost will likely be the same. Or see if you can find a nice LS2.. thats a good option too.

 

[Edahall]

Hydrolock wouldn't cause that. It prevents the engine from turning over all together. This looks like the results of lack of maintenance. Notice the sludge and cooked oil on the cam, crank, oil pan and block that can only be done over a period of time. I'd bet if you pulled the valve covers you would see syrup. Use NOTHING of this engine. It is junk. With broken pistons you are guaranteed bore distortion and deep scratching. It was just a 2 bolt block so now is your chance to snag a 4 bolt and upgrade. If you have the heads fluxed, pressure checked, thoroughly flushed and decked then you may be able to use them. With the condition of that oil I wouldn't though. Those heads probably have half an inch of sludge on them.

You seem to be on something here. I did some research and it seems like this damage was probably caused from cracked heads. The crack heads allowed coolant to seep into the front 2 cylinders and when the engine was started, a piston slammed into the non compressible coolant causing the whole thing to come apart. At this point, it looks like the whole engine is not much more than a boat anchor. However, I may be in luck, I've got an 1982 Suburban with a good 6.2L and transmission but the body is rusting away.

 

[Edahall]

Hydrolock wouldn't cause that. It prevents the engine from turning over all together. This looks like the results of lack of maintenance. Notice the sludge and cooked oil on the cam, crank, oil pan and block that can only be done over a period of time. I'd bet if you pulled the valve covers you would see syrup. Use NOTHING of this engine. It is junk. With broken pistons you are guaranteed bore distortion and deep scratching. It was just a 2 bolt block so now is your chance to snag a 4 bolt and upgrade. If you have the heads fluxed, pressure checked, thoroughly flushed and decked then you may be able to use them. With the condition of that oil I wouldn't though. Those heads probably have half an inch of sludge on them.

Here's what it looks like under the valve covers.

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[Tempted]

Eh the 6.2 would get you down the road but those motors aren't very desirable. A good 350 will run rings around the old 6.2 and is easier to find parts for. Plus putting a diesel from 82 into a truck designed for a newer gas burner is going to require a ton of work(all new wiring, fuel system, gauges, front suspension components, mounts, etc). A TBI block will work fine and you can buy them for $200 in running condition. You would need to go with Vortec heads, but you are going to have to do that no matter which option you take. As far as cracking heads, the TBI motors have been known to do that on occasion but Vortec heads are pretty solid. Many people confuse TBI and Vortec heads because of the center valve cover bolts, the two heads are completely different. You can not put a Vortec intake on anything other than Vortec heads. But you can put Vortec heads on any other gen 1 small block.

 

[Tempted]

Here's what it looks like under the valve covers.

You must be registered for see images attach

That's actually cleaner than I thought it would be. I'd still be cautious about using them though.

 

[TylerZ281500]

visually you look for cracks in the heads otherwise theres a lot of machine work that can be done to check for cracks, or any weaknesses in the metal. that poor truck ive never seen a piston blow apart and cause that much damage. we had a 454 in my friends suburban that snapped the crank and still rand but had no effect to the bores or anything other than the crank and journals.