lickmyburger89
Newbie
failed to mention that he needed to check the temp sensor next to the t stat. i apologize for that, havent had much sleep taking care of my 15 month old son
TBI stumble under load. SOLVED!!
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@evilunclegrimace I know that the one in the head is for the gauge, I was just stating that that one was bad and it was brand new, so i guess that the one in the intake could also be bad. I put an old one back in. I suppose I can do the same with the one in the intake.
lickmyburger89
Newbie
its all good as long as you knew which one i meant lol. just ohm across the two terminals. heres a table for what it should ohm out at. mine tested out in spec, but i replaced it because of the plastic casing being broken around the terminals
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I can check that! Thank you. I'm pretty sure mine is functioning okay because when it gets hot it goes to closed loop and then the EGR will kick on if it is not blocked off. I unhooked the MAP sensor and it ran the same as before.
A couple other observations here for everyone:
When it's cold it idles fine.
No matter what temperature it runs rough at lower RPM. But if you get on it, it will get up and go just fine.
When it warms up and goes into closed loop it idles very poorly.
I am going to put a new AC Delco cap on it tomorrow. I hope that helps.
A couple other observations here for everyone:
When it's cold it idles fine.
No matter what temperature it runs rough at lower RPM. But if you get on it, it will get up and go just fine.
When it warms up and goes into closed loop it idles very poorly.
I am going to put a new AC Delco cap on it tomorrow. I hope that helps.
Dont know if this is any help but since you said it runs rough when in closed loop have you looked at the o2 sensor? When you did the swap did you by chance not get it hooked up or maybe the 4.3 uses a different one then the 5.7. Also you said that the SES light did turn on but doesnt now if i read right. Might be a dumb question but is the bulb burned out?
@smdk2500 the SES light does come on, I've made it come on for different codes (MAP and EGR). I did put in a new o2 sensor and it seems to be functioning. No dumb questions, light is working. It doesn't turn on for the EGR anymore. I must have had the vacuum a little loose.
lickmyburger89
Newbie
you can always plug off all vacuum ports and leave the map line hooked to check if its lines, spray carb or thottle body cleaner around the edges of the manifold to check leaks there.if it runs better at any point spraying,you know what you got to do, however it won't check the bottom side of the manifold.
also what ignition components have you tested or replaced?
also what ignition components have you tested or replaced?
SOLVED
After putting a new cap and coil on, it still did not clear up. I ohm tested all of the plug wires and #5 and #7 wires were dead. No resistance unless you held them in a particular spot. I put 2 new plug wires on and away she goes! Thank you to all, @lickmyburger89 you were a lot of help! Hope your issue gets sorted out also!
After putting a new cap and coil on, it still did not clear up. I ohm tested all of the plug wires and #5 and #7 wires were dead. No resistance unless you held them in a particular spot. I put 2 new plug wires on and away she goes! Thank you to all, @lickmyburger89 you were a lot of help! Hope your issue gets sorted out also!
lickmyburger89
Newbie
glad to hear that! I'll have my truck going before long. just waiting on a more capable scan tool to confirm/deter my suspicions of the ecm. everything has tested in spec
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