Yes, the belt on the power steering pulley. Your truck will start and run fine without it. Take it right off the ps pump and the crank pulley. You're not going more than a few feet at most anyways.
With the belt removed there is no hydraulics and you essentially have manual steering. If it is still binding it's not the hydraulic side of the house, it's mechanical.
Now I'm going to say something that I hope you don't take the wrong way:
I'm not trying to be insulting but at this point I'm going to say perhaps you should have a shop look at it. The nature of your questions indicate that might be the best/safest route here.
Cheers
Not at all great white, i understand its a very big safety factor Im taking my vehicle to a 4WD Fabrication shop that specializes in steering componentry inside and out and rebuilds the original steering gear boxes/components.
I installed my Borgeson steering shaft with a close family relative who graduated from wyotech but at this point i'd rather cough up some cash and have it done at a professional business that warranties there work.
@skylark ,Essentially im replacing the entire steering shaft that the paint/body shop decided to mess with as i've already replaced the power steering. i disconnected my idler arm but it's still bound up, i tried running my truck with the power steering belt off the ps pump and crank shaft pulley then rolling in drive and turning - it was able to be turned but was binding almost through every degree of turning.
Because of This would lead me to believe somewhere in between the gear box to the column is the problem?
Also if anyone else on here has had a shop remove/install the steering shaft how much did that cost? just want to get a ballpark estimate as i wanted to put in new gears and now this fiasco of a mess is making it a little harder on the wallet to achieve.
I'm more set on getting the problem fixed with the truck, my steering shaft replacement is free because it fell under the warranty and i ended up getting a double u joint as opposed to rag joint to u joint. (free exchange) I spoke to a few 4wd specialists and they said they don't ever see anyone that runs the traditional rag to u joint on a lifted let alone body lifted vehicle - they could be talking out there a$$ but i take everything with a grain of salt and cross reference that information with reliable sourcing.
@sewlow, i've been getting all the text messages/invoices phone calls in and out printed out as well as pictures. My truck actually came back with 98 more miles on it then when i dropped it off hmm.. glad i took a picture.
I have a folder i've been preparing with every possible last detail date and time mileage and video of the vehicle running prior and after service with dates and times to prove it, as well as craigslist! (had it posted with videos from early to late july)
@greatwhite , I agree taking it to a shop would be my safest bet, i don't want to make things harder or more expensive for myself so i'd rather have it done right and take the time off and learn how they diagnose the situation then how to properly assess and fix the problem area.
If im every paying a shop im always with my vehicle watching, or attentively asking questions. except this instance is a good example of what happens when your not there.
Im still trying to learn how to link a video to this forum so you guys can hear/compare quality of idle and startup from prior to current condition. the more i think about it the more it bums me out but if i could get more input or advice it would raise my awareness of what might of actually suffered damage or failure.
Thanks again everyone for the replies hope everyone had a great weekend as well.