Starter repair.

[R422b]

I have a friend with a 1991 G20 van with a 350 motor and his starter doesn't always engage so he asked me to price a replacement. Well I have read enough on here to know that the quality of new ones is questionable so I would like to repair the one he has.

I have seen posted what parts should be replaced while you have it open but the search feature failed me so maybe we can post that information here and I will provide pictures of the rebuild process.
I would like this to become a thorough guide to repairing your starter rather than replacing it.
Who's with me?

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[R422b]

Here is what I found on rock Auto. I probably don't need the bolts but they are so cheap. Is there anything else or is there a better brand?

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[man-a-fre]

Good move on keeping factory starter and rebuilding it . I would also like to see a factory alternator rebuild because all the parts house ones seem to be junk.

 

[R422b]

Good move on keeping factory starter and rebuilding it. I would also like to see a factory alternator rebuild because all the parts house ones seem to be junk.

Yeah. We actually have an old fashioned alternator shop here that I will go to if i get stumped or can't find the parts.

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[R422b]

So I called my local dealer and they said that all of those parts from GM are discontinued. So looks like rock auto is going to be my way to go.

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[R422b]

I'm hoping somebody will post what parts are required because I thought I read recently where somebody posted that there is a leather washer that needs replaced and I don't see that in the listing on rockauto.

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[Schurkey]

10MT starter rebuild (order parts for your specific vehicle--there's a surprising number of changes and differences in these old direct-drive starters.)

Parts:
Drive-end bushing
Armature-end bushing
Brushes
Starter drive (preferably 5-roller, not 4-roller)
Shift fork
Leather washer (armature end)

Labor
Disassemble solenoid, polish contacts
Polish armature
Lube bushings
Test field coils for opens/grounds
Check armature for opens/grounds

Thorough job, using special tools
Under-cut the mica insulation on armature
Test armature on "growler" (I haven't done this in forty years--never had access to a Growler. I bought one awhile ago, but I'll need to refurbish it before it can be used.)

If your starter works, but just needs to be "freshened"; you don't need to get too wild about testing the fields and the armature.

The solenoid contacts get burnt; need to be spiffed-up. The bakelite solenoid caps are somewhat fragile. Be careful removing them.
Photo 1. Solenoid cap removed from solenoid.
http://hbassociates.us/SolenoidCapContactsTopSM.jpg

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Photo 2. Underside of solenoid cap.
http://hbassociates.us/SolenoidCapContactsSM.jpg

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Photo 3. Solenoid guts including copper disc.
http://hbassociates.us/SolenoidContactsSM.jpg

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You'll want a "Round-Nose" chisel to remove the old bushings.

Some guys take the worn shift fork, and weld new metal to the pads that ride on the starter drive. I bought a bunch of shift forks, I don't weld the old ones. When they quit making shift forks, welding will be the only reasonable option.

Here's an eBay auction for the parts I've mentioned, plus a few extras I don't tend to replace. I suppose when the auction closes, the photos will not be available any more. I've never bought from this person; I don't know about the quality of these parts.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Delco-10MT...Fork-Chevy-Chevelle-Camaro-Nova-/201048700270

I got mine from the local NAPA about a million years ago. For example,
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ECH...&impressionRank=1&keywordInput=leather+washer