Soft/spongy brake pedal

[96-2D-Hoe]

Over the next weeks, I bled all four corners and keeping an eye on fluid level. Since this has happened til now - I have bled the brakes about 4 times and the fluid is solid at all corners.

What method are you using to bleed?

How much fluid do you put though each corner?

Why do you say the ABS does not work? is the ABS light on?

 

[VIKING_MECHANIC]

I have someone pump the pedals a few time as I hold the bleeder screw open, then have them hold the pedal down as I close the screw.

Somewhere in the neighborhood of 3-4oz. I have a rubber line going from the screw into a bottle filled with brake fluid so it can't suck in any air.

I skid to a stop under hard braking.
ABS light has burned out a long time ago, but it was on for the first 3-4 years after I bought it.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Check your cable and trace it

I'm going to see what I can do this weekend.

Also, I forgot to mention in the post, that after the abrupt stop, my parking brake no longer works.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

YES driving big trucks around is fun. Most people who learn how to move trailers around start small, and work their way up. I was the opposite, I learned how to dock a 53' then worked my way down to a 16' and 18' trailers.

28' hard. I've got dollies down, nervous for the 53'

 

[VIKING_MECHANIC]

Check your cable and trace it

I think the cable is good, but something in the drums may be seriously messed up. Hopefully this weekend I can make progress on this.

 

[VIKING_MECHANIC]

28' hard. I've got dollies down, nervous for the 53'

Are you moving the trailers with a auto or standard? I learned in a 10 speed, planned on getting my CDL but then the company fell to **** and I left.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Both we got allison 8spd and standard 10spd. Auto easier but standard more fun... I have a hard time backing up to the bay with out over shooting it

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

I have someone pump the pedals a few time as I hold the bleeder screw open, then have them hold the pedal down as I close the screw.

Perhaps you just wrote this out this way, but you pump the pedal a little, if it's necessary, and then hold the pedal while the screw is closed. While the pedal is held down gently/firmly you open the bleed screw, and then close it again before the pedal travels too far/ to the bottom. And repeat. Pump, hold, open, close... A piece of 4x2 under the brake pedal will stop you from killing the MC. I've done it.

But you should not bother with bleeding until you inspect/correct the rear brakes as it will help a lot.

You really should also find someone with a Tech2 to scan the codes on your truck to start to find what is wrong with the ABS. Your issue could be many things and swapping out the unit may not fix it.

I can get the brakes to work, but I cannot get a decent pedal in my truck without setting off the ABS when it has air in it.

 

[VIKING_MECHANIC]

While the pedal is held down gently/firmly you open the bleed screw, and then close it again before the pedal travels too far/ to the bottom

I don't quite follow. So do I perform this procedure BEFORE the pedal reaches the top of it's travel, where it normally would sit?

I will look at the rear and see if anything is damaged or severely out of adjustment. But when I replaced my wheel cylinders, everything looked good.

I don't know if there's anywhere near me that has anything that can do that, but I can look around.

Although, I don't suspect air in the system, if there is, it's taking a lot of effort to get it to leave through the bleed screws.
Last few times I bled the brakes, the fluid was solid for several seconds before I closed the screw.

 

[96-2D-Hoe]

I don't quite follow. So do I perform this procedure BEFORE the pedal reaches the top of it's travel, where it normally would sit?

The 4x2 under the pedal is recommended and almost essential. Engine off. MC reservoir lid open. Reservoir full. (I just crack/leave front corner open. Put rags around as fluid will highly likely spill out.)

Hold pedal gently/ firmly at point of resistance. (Pump pedal if necessary to create higher point of resistance and then hold)
Open bleed screw and let fluid out for a second or two (Stop before the pedal hits the floor)
Close bleed screw
Release pedal and wait 10 secs
Repeat

It's all about keeping up the pressure and not allowing any air or fluid back in on the upstroke of the pedal/MC. I almost always imagine a bubble going back uphill while I wait 10 secs to push the pedal again.

If your handbrake has stopped working something isn't right. At very least the rear brakes need adjusting up. That will help you bleed more easily/effectively

Re air. A few seconds of clear fluid doesn't necessarily mean all the air is out. It all depends how much got in. Did the front of the MC reservoir run dry? FYI I've put over three gallons through my identical system recently. It's a PIA.

It's possible air is not your problem as an issue with the rear brakes could also cause you to have a bad pedal and handbrake. You should check the rear before you do anything else.

You could perhaps post in the forum here to see if anyone close to you has a tech2 to read any ABS codes you might have. Maybe a local brake shop would have something to read it. Otherwise it's a dealership. I just bought a Tech2 clone on ebay for $275

I one man bleed and that is not as effective as the two man process. But I need 40 pushes of the pedal to get about a pint of fluid from the rear passenger, then about 20 for RD. 20-25 for the front. If you're not aware you start bleeding at rear passenger, then rear driver, front passenger, front driver.

Hope that helps. Can't think of much more.