Rocker Panel Restore Help!

[benjaminbarton55]

Hello.

I own a 1998 Chevy silverado, extended cab. My Rocker panels are a bit rotted near the rear end of the cab on both sides near the bottom. Their is a small rusted hole on each rocker panel. It doesnt go the whole way through, however to pass inspection, the PA state law requires "no jagged edges". I've known some people to just tape of the rust with duct tape. However, I wish to completey fix them, just because i can, and becausse i would like to restore the classic look to my beautiful truck.

I've ordered a set of replacement rocker panels from the LMC magazine. I suppose it would have been easier to take the truck to a body shop, but im only 17. im on a tight budget here. so i figured id try it on my home. but I need help. I don't exactly know how to do this. Do i just tear of all the excess rust, then use the mig welder to weld the panel on, and sand it down? or is there a different method? i have never seen it done. and since most of my work is done under the hood, im a bit clueless on this body work part.

If anyone one could help me with this situation, it would greatly be appreciated.
post a comment, please.

Thanks again,
-Ben

 

[4x4incountryboy]

ok number one thing to this is never start hacking..... plan everything out well and tripple check everything like measurements placements and what not.. what i suggest would be remove as little as possible if any for you to get an accurate mark for where you need to make your cuts...theres two ways to to this...either the way most people do it or the nicer more experienced way.... first way is to have a true fit leaving just enough room to get some weld to hold the piece when tacked in.....the other requires a flanging tool.....this would create a small "lip" that would step downward so the new rocker would go over top and have a stuctural lip behind(where you can not see/inside) and leaves the right amount of gap for structual body welds...this would be done to the cab so the step is down not up...the piece would be a little longer than if done the first way to accomodate for the step down and flush surface...make sure the new replacement piece is all the way down agaist the lip/flush....keep pressure on it close to where you are welding...i usually tack about every inch apart and make sure i tack where i hold pressure first and work my way back ...benifts to doing it this way is the piece is able to warp less and has a stronger structural body and often requires less grinding. when welding make sure DO NOT WELD CONTINUOUSLY FOR TOO LONG! it will warp the metal.... do good tack welds or even very short beads then stop and go weld a good distance away from the previous weld where the heat has either very little or no tranfer from the prior weld. If you arent sure you can tackle this, ask for help so you arent up creek without a paddle or too far into it that makes the repair harder and for gods sakes when doing bondo....do thin layers at a time...make sure the surface is rough enough and clean for the bondo to stick...sand it work it...hands dont lie! and clean it good and repeat if need be... ive seen many people put too much on too quick and it results in cracking, peeling, and leads to rust and defeats the whole purpose. ...hope this helps?

 

[tj98gmc]

check out my build thread,,, i have a bunch of pics from when i did my cab corners and rocker panels... i dunno if it will help ya or not..
the link to my build thread is in my sig

 

[benjaminbarton55]

Thank you. I will take your advice and update you on my progress. Haha whenver the weekend comes!

And yes. I will check out your thread. Thanks for advice!

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[1993-Sierra-Z71]

at least you got rockers, i got none anymore from friggin salt and sulfuric acid they dump on the roads here.

 

[benjaminbarton55]

Im with you on that. The salt literally eats the truck alive.

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1998, CHEVROLET Silverado z71, extended cab.
350 v8, Vortech Engine