Removing trim w/ eraser wheel - adhesive wet or dry?

[truck]

Last time I did this a few years back to my previous OBS, it was a hot ass day so it was as dry as can be, but it took forrreeeverrrr (as referenced in The Sandlot)

Anybody ever try soaking it first? Maybe with water or a practical solvent and then using the wheel? Just shooting ideas

 

[michael hurd]

For thick adhesive ( side moldings ) it may be beneficial to shave down the remaining tape first. You can use a single edged razor blade, or other similar scraping tool, HOWEVER I would put at least two wraps of masking tape on both sides of the blade, so that it's not touching the paint itself.

IE: tape on either side of what you are trimming off. The razor or other scraping device must be sharp... otherwise it's going to be a PITA. Once most of the thick part of the tape is off, then it's not as much work for the eraser tool.

Soaking it isn't going to help... but you may want some adhesive remover to go over the area after using the eraser wheel, I like 3M spray adhesive remover, but it's expensive here in Canada... goes for almost $30 a spray bomb.

 

[97PROSHOZ71]

I've never even found one of those eraser wheels. I need one badly.


I took mine off right after a wash, the majority of it pulled right off without heating it up. The harder parts I used a heat gun and a plastic scraper. Other people say fishing line works well too


Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[thz71]

Ive never tried it it seems like it would help though

 

[truck]

fishing line is to only remove the trim, not the tape itself. I had to use it on my old truck, but this truck it just pulled off. The issue that I am running into is that the adhesive is rock hard. It literally chips and flakes away when I use a razor blade. I will take a look at the 3M remover, maybe this will benefit the circumstance.

I've never even found one of those eraser wheels. I need one badly.

Want me to send you one?

 

[97PROSHOZ71]

fishing line is to only remove the trim, not the tape itself. I had to use it on my old truck, but this truck it just pulled off. The issue that I am running into is that the adhesive is rock hard. It literally chips and flakes away when I use a razor blade. I will take a look at the 3M remover, maybe this will benefit the circumstance.





Want me to send you one?

that would be awesome if you want to!

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

 

[great white]

3m eraser wheel is the bomb.

Get the trim off, make sure there's no dirt (I wash the vehicle before wheeling) and then go to town.

I find low speed on the drill saves the wheel and is far more controllable than high speed. You need decent forearm strength to handle it well. Cordless works fine, but you need several batteries to do an eclb.

Works great. Worth every penny of the 40 bucks I paid for it 10 years ago...

 

[thz71]

Ive used the same wheel on at least 5 vehicle its about time for a new one but it was worth every penny

 

[someotherguy]

$40 is the NAPA price on the 3M wheel; if you hunt around you'll find it cheaper. I paid that much for it too at first. For example, you can get it for under $20 through Amazon. Its proper name is the Stripe-Off wheel. http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00063VT0G/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

As mentioned before lower speed is the trick. They have a max RPM of something like 4000 but don't use that. If you look on 3M's site you'll see they recommend the best speed for them is around 2000 RPM and that's what I've found. I used mine on a variable speed electric drill that had max speed around 2400 but of course it slows down once you put the wheel to the paint.

Another tip - once the wheel really heats up, take a break. You'll appreciate the break and the wheel will, too. Doesn't seem to work as well once it heats up.

Richard

 

[thz71]

Yep and once it heats up th material just flies off the wheel