Rebuilding Ford HP44 with GM outers for SAS.

[jps4jeep]

An advantage with a Dana 60 (other than the obvious strength) you will save money of you want to run high steer, ther eis no machining. You simply run a high steer arm off the top of the king pin knuckle. for a street driver, a factory knuckle in good condition is more than adequate. If your going to wheel, I would, at a minimum, suggest plating the knuckles or going straight to a reid or solid unit that either adds a 5th hole or key-ways the arm to the knuckle.

 

[AirmanSkee]

I think my best bet is going to be going with the 77.5-79 d44 or d60 (if I can find one). Its cheaper up here to buy a whole donor vehicle than just an axle. Plus I can make more money off it when it comes down to it, as I can junk or part the rest. Im still waiting on a reply from the owner about the F250 previously posted, to see if it is a HP or not. I hope so, if not, the search is back on.

 

[jps4jeep]

your best bet would be any ford D60, not just those years. the 77.5-79 is a lot harder to find since they made way less of them over a short period of time. Plus they generally get a higher price because they basically bolt into the front of a jeep YJ.

This is the kit you listed in your other thread
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/88-98SolidAxleConversion.htm

If you scroll down you will see this kit accomodates both 32.5" springs and 36.5" springs, this is in reference to the ford Dana 60. Honestly, I think the 85-97 axle is the better choice. They will be newer and in better general shape, if they salt the roads where you are like they do in the north east, 35 year old axle knuckles get mighty thin over the years. The offset diff will make the exhaust easier to modify, and the axle will be, flat out cheaper to buy.
I can be a bit of an axle horder, I will buy a DRW f350 D60 for short cash, which stock is really not that desirable, head to the junkyard, look for a 80's F250 with a TTB D50 and I pull the hub assembally, swap them over to the D60 and re-sell for a profit.

 

[AirmanSkee]

Ah okay. Ive just been going off of what Ive mainly seen, which was the 32.5". On the 85-97 Dana 60, will the knuckles need to be swapped for the flat tops? And any difference in the steering setups?

Sorry for all the questions, Just trying to get it all straightened out now so when I get home I can jump into it.

Edit: I found an 87 Kingpin out of an F350 with 4.10 gears for $450. Is that about right for the price? It also includes the springs, so could they be used instead of the GM rear springs?

http://anchorage.craigslist.org/pts/3502783690.html

 

[jps4jeep]

the most basic answer to that question... NO

 

[jps4jeep]

These are Stock D60 knuckles from a chevy (basically the same as a ford)

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These are stock knuckles with hi-steer, you bolt on using the factory KP cap bolts

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These particular ones are balistic arms, there are different typs (springless vs. spring) how other subject

this is an aftermarket knuckle (either solid or crane)versus a factory knuckle.

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Notice the key way, for a daily driver, the stock KP bolts will be fine, once you add 40"+ tires, full hydro and hard wheeling, you can have the knuckle develop cracks due to the forces applied.

this is a reid racing knuckle (same as dedenbear)

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Notice the 5th mounting stud for the arm and the extra meat on the knuckle.

 

[AirmanSkee]

Yeah I see now. I wont be going any bigger than 36-37s and will probably be starting with the 35s that I have now. It will be mainly my DD but I will be playing in it on the weekends and stuff. So it wont get the P~$$ wheeled out of it, but I want it to hold up to some mud and trails.

 

[jps4jeep]

Edit: I found an 87 Kingpin out of an F350 with 4.10 gears for $450. Is that about right for the price? It also includes the springs, so could they be used instead of the GM rear springs?

http://anchorage.craigslist.org/pts/3502783690.html

With out seeing it, that is a good price, before the economy collapsed, these axle were fetching a grand plus in absolute junk condition. Again, not see it, I would put $450 cash in my pocket, meet up with the guy, inspect the axle, if it checks out, offer him $300, if you can make a deal for $350-400, thats a damn good deal (at least for axles around here) expect to invest another $200-$300 for rotors, bearings, calipers, pads, you might not need them, but good to have in the budget.

I would probably not use the ford springs, most F350 springs were flat if not de-arched slightly, you would be better with a new set of chevy springs, me personally I would run 52" springs, so will disagree, but that really comes down to preference.

 

[AirmanSkee]

I was going to run a set of 52s from a friends K5 he just tore apart. And build a custom pack like 88GMCtruck did. His build is basically what I am basing mine off of, except I dont want to change over my TCase.

 

[jps4jeep]

t case.. another issue, you will need to see if you have a fixed front output or a slip yoke front output. There is only a little over an inch of spline engagement on the slip yoke, if you use this T-case for the SAS, you risk the driveshaft falling out of the the slip yoke due to the increased movement in the front axle. this slip shaft was only designed to compensate for chassis flex, not suspension travel. the only way to tell if you have it is to get under the truck and look.