Rear Leaf & Torsion Bar Removal - Tips?

92GMCK2500

I'm Awesome
Joined
Nov 14, 2017
Messages
134
Reaction score
131
Location
.
I've found a SRW K3500 locally that is being parted out. I've arranged to go around to he guys place and snag the rear leaf pack and torsion bars out of it this weekend. Intend on installing them on my LD 2500 (7200gvw).

No doubt the parts will be rust affected. Any tips for a safe and easier removal?

TBH, I've never done this before so any help is appreciated! Leafs don't seem too bad but the torsion bars are a little more intimidating.

Should i grab the LCA's while im there?

Cheers.
 

stutaeng

I'm Awesome
Joined
Aug 7, 2019
Messages
1,404
Reaction score
1,480
Location
Dallas, TX
Well, the leafs are easy as you stated. Just remove the Ubolts and the through bolt on each eye of the leaf spring.

There's a torsion unloader tool to release the tension on the front bars. I think you can also lift the frame and let the hug assembly drop to release the tension, not sure if that's true or not.

I think the entire front UCA and LCA will swap if you want to swap to an 8 lug for the larger brakes. The LCAs should be forged. Might was well nab the 10.5" axle. Not sure if that's an option though, as some guys want to keep their trucks' stock wheels. And it's more work.
 

92GMCK2500

I'm Awesome
Joined
Nov 14, 2017
Messages
134
Reaction score
131
Location
.
Thanks. I'll see about renting the tool. In theory, if i unload the tension and remove the UCA & LCA bolts, can i take out the whole thing in one piece?

Im considering nabbing the whole truck as it is only 800 bucks.
 

stutaeng

I'm Awesome
Joined
Aug 7, 2019
Messages
1,404
Reaction score
1,480
Location
Dallas, TX
You'll have to remove the torsion bar, tie rods, axle nuts, and upper and lower control arms where they mount to the frame...shocks. I think the rotor is still attached? It's going to be really heavy.

$800 doesn't sound that bad. What else does the truck have? Engine or tranny?
 

92GMCK2500

I'm Awesome
Joined
Nov 14, 2017
Messages
134
Reaction score
131
Location
.
Any other special tools required? Like tie rod ends? Pickle fork?

Whole truck, CCLB, 5.7L, 4L80E with no reverse apparently. Dont know the history. Its a 92 as well (so TBI) and blue interior like my truck which is a big plus. I need a bunch of random interior stuff...

I would like to go 4L80E in the future (swap from TH700R) so id like to get a hold of the harness if possible. Im justifying the whole truck now haha
 
Last edited:

boy&hisdogs

I'm Awesome
Joined
Mar 2, 2012
Messages
240
Reaction score
82
The torsion bars and leaf spring bolts might be rusted in place so bring plenty of blaster. There is also a high chance that the U bolts will fight you so a grinder or sawzall with a GOOD metal specific blade is highly recommended.

Also, a cordless impact is your friend. I have two of them, a small 3/8 drive one and a big 1/2 drive one. Both are Dewalt XR's. The 3/8 will occasionally struggle with certain bolts, (like today it hard a hard time with the LCA bolts that are torqued to 125 pounds) but the 1/2 hasn't met a (non-damaged) bolt that it can't remove yet. I take them with me every time I go to the junkyard. They have saved me and my arms hours of wrenching over the past year or so that I've had them.

This is coming from someone who just swapped springs and an axle last weekend and I currently have the truck back up on jack stands relocating the torsion bars.
 
Last edited:

92GMCK2500

I'm Awesome
Joined
Nov 14, 2017
Messages
134
Reaction score
131
Location
.
Cheers. This is exactly the info i was after. I ain't got a cordless cutting tool other than a hack saw, manual labor at its finest. Do have an impact tho. Who knows, maybe it will all slide out seamlessly! I'm an optimist :headbang:
 

boy&hisdogs

I'm Awesome
Joined
Mar 2, 2012
Messages
240
Reaction score
82
Cheers. This is exactly the info i was after. I ain't got a cordless cutting tool other than a hack saw, manual labor at its finest. Do have an impact tho. Who knows, maybe it will all slide out seamlessly! I'm an optimist :headbang:

A hacksaw will do it, slowly, but it will get done if you want it bad enough! A hammer and a long punch (or maybe a long skinny bolt) would be nice too if the bolts don't just slide out. I had to use one a couple times. The T bars very well could be rusted in place too, you'll definitely want a punch for that.
 

Nad_Yvalhosert

I'm Awesome
Joined
Oct 11, 2016
Messages
277
Reaction score
320
Location
Rochester, NY
The bars and lower A-arms should be a direct bolt in from 6 lug to 8 lug. But NOT the upper A-arms. The 8 lug uppers are different where the arm attaches to the frame. Also, the taper of the ball joints are different. So 6 lug knuckles, 6 lug ball joints, and 6 lug upper arms are a matched set. Same goes for the 8 lug... no mix and match.

But the 3500 torsion bars will fit the 1500 and 2500LD.
 
Top