Knuckle Dragger
Rascal *****
Thank you
It’ll do
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I wish I had your skills. 30+ years as a mechanic but no real fab experience.
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Thank you
It’ll do
You must be registered for see images attach
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i bought the kit a few weeks ago. Installed them in about 3-4 hours. It was easy. Only issue I have now is that I can't get the air out of the lines. I installed a new MC, front rotor/calipers, steal braided lines and new barking brake cables. No amount of bleeding has worked on getting the air out. Not that it has anything to do with the kit, but it sucks that I can't drive my truck.
i bought the kit a few weeks ago. Installed them in about 3-4 hours. It was easy. Only issue I have now is that I can't get the air out of the lines. I installed a new MC, front rotor/calipers, steal braided lines and new barking brake cables. No amount of bleeding has worked on getting the air out. Not that it has anything to do with the kit, but it sucks that I can't drive my truck.
I have tried gravity, no joy. i have used a one man bleeder with a pump to suck out the air, nothing. I have had someone sit in the seat and push down the peddle while I open, close the bleeder,zip. I really think it has to do with the fact that the rears were drum and the prop valve/combo valve was for disc/drum. Here's what I have seen. The truck has been sitting and its rained a few times. A small amount of rust has built up on the rotors. When I went out driving yesterday, the fronts were clean and shinny w/ no rust, but the rears still had at least 50% rust on the rotor. You could tell that the rear calipers were not compressing hard enough to remove the rust. I don't understand the factory "rear anti-lock" prop/combo valve enough to understand if its the problem. I have purchased a few parts to bypass the valve. I was thinking about putting a Wilwood prop valve directly off the rear line. Then using it to control the amount of pressure being sent to the rear. Any thoughts?
What m/c did you put in? If it's a stock GMT 400 m/c that may be the problem- the calipers and m/c in the 400's were made to pull the pistons back off the rotor when you release the brakes (as a fuel saving measure, bad idea!), just one of the reasons these trucks had such bad brakes. Switching to a GMT 800 m/c from a 2WD 2500 will solve the issue, it does not have the valving I mentioned and a bigger cylinder bore that is not stepped to change front/rear pressures (it is intended for disc/disc) and seems to work just fine with the stock proportioning valve (mounted to the ABS unit). You will need to address the different brake line fitting size at the master cylinder- as I was changing lines anyway I just put the correct size fitting for the m/c on the 1/4" line going back, but there is an adaptor available to convert the thread sizes. Also, if you have ABS, you will need to do an ABS bleed with an appropriate scanner- the last bit of air I had in mine was hiding there and took a while to get out. Hope this helpsi bought the kit a few weeks ago. Installed them in about 3-4 hours. It was easy. Only issue I have now is that I can't get the air out of the lines. I installed a new MC, front rotor/calipers, steal braided lines and new barking brake cables. No amount of bleeding has worked on getting the air out. Not that it has anything to do with the kit, but it sucks that I can't drive my truck.
Did you try resetting the switch as I described?