Rear Brake issues( Drums )

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2003Xtreme

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No no.. The line was disconnected at master cylinder. No fluid came out when pedal was pushed. When u took the reservoir cap off.. It worked fine. Once u put that cap and hasket back on.. U could push that brake pedal a million times and not a droP would come out. Remember.. There is no Line hooked up to the master cylinder for back brakes. The front ones are fine.. They bleed fine and everything. No idea why the back ones are being a *****.
 

Swims350

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MC isn't working then, must have air trapped in the front and need bled more.

If not then the seals are gone for the front already.
 

2003Xtreme

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Ok i will try to bleed that line again today hopefully.. There anything i could have done that would have blew out the seals??
 

Swims350

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overstroked the MC while trying to bench bleed it. Mine said do NOT stroke further then 3/4 to an inch, and by bleeding I hope you mean the MC, that's the only thing you need to try and bleed is it, then see if you can get fluid out of it.

I used my hand vac. pump on mine, tried it at all four, bled over 3 jars from each, still nothing. I can pump them and get half pedal hard with the truck off, then let up and hit it and it goes over 3/4 the way down, probably to the floor most likely.

I gotta get somebody help me pump and bleed and if that fails I'm changing my prop. valve.
 

2003Xtreme

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I got same problem. I am getting fluid at the back now or so i think. When u loosen the bleeder screw on back.. The pedal doesnt even drop at all. I think its the proportioning valve. How do you center the piston inside it so fluid goes evenly to front and back?
 

DRAGGIN95

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When you have bench bled the master cylinder do you get a nice firm pedal with the plastic plug's installed?
 

2003Xtreme

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Never tried that. I used the plugs that have the barb fitting on them and routed them into the reservoir and bled the master cylinder that way. How my dad told me to do it. It came with straiggt plugs. Phil you think i should put the plugs in it and see if the pedal gets hard? If the pedal gets hard assuming that would be good.. What if the pedal does not get hard??
 

Swims350

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agreed, your dad had you do apparently the "old" bleeding technique.

Mine had a paper saying new and improved bleeding procedure, and included the 2 plugs, you plug them and stroke the piston 3/4 of an inch to 1 inch total no more, and keep doing so until it barely travels 1/8 or less freely before being firm.

I did mine this way and mine gets firm as crap, less then 1/2 pedal travel before it gets rock hard. Then when I hook up the lines, it sucks.

I have no freakin clue on which way is centered on the prop valve, mine shoves outward when you are pumping to build pressure though. After I messed with mine it's kinda stuck in now.

I'm really REALLY sick of this piece a crap brake system. I even used my vac. hand pump, gravity bled, 2 person etc.

I have yet to use the 2 person method which IMO is the BEST way to do so, unless you have an actual pressure/power bleeder MAYBE, I have never used one. So I won't say for sure anything is wrong with mine until I can get someone to help me with the bleeding.

I will say this though, if it fails on the 2 man bleed job, a new prop. valve will be on order.
 

2003Xtreme

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I hear ya man. I have not had time to put the plugs in mine yet to try it out. Mine too when the pedal is pressed, the pin on the proportioning valve comes outward past the base of the proportioning valve.
 
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