Positraction vrs Locking Diff?

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azmikep

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I don’t have a cam. It’s only got headers and air cleaner. I do have a hyper tech chip to go in…. Just waiting on gas prices to get a little better first.
Great advice so far. Should have mentioned I have 275/60/15’s as well.
 

azmikep

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For a 2wd in FL, I wouldn't consider a locker, just get a Truetrac. 3.42 is a good gear for a C1500 with TBI. I had that in my C1500, later went 3.73 when those gears got eaten by an exploding sun gear. The 3.73 was a bit much on the highway for a motor with no legs, but back then all I had close to home were 55 roads so it worked well for me. Doing 70+ it just didn't seem as happy as it did with the 3.42. Do you have a cam or anything to make it want to rev more than 4000?
No cam. Only my right foot!
 

kennythewelder

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I had to rebuild my rear end last year. I live in South Louisiana, so like you, it rains here a lot. I put an Eaton trutrac and some 373s. I have a 5.7L that is at about 325 HP, and a week and a half after doing the rear end, I blew up the 4L60E. So I had it rebuilt. Jd master rebuild kit, some Corvette survos, and a shift kit. With the 4L60E, it has a low first gear, so I was going to go with a set of 410 gears, but was talked out of that. I also had a set of 342 gears from the factory. I now push 300 RPMs more than before on the HWY than I did before the gear swap. If you go 410-411, your probably will be about 500 to 600 RPMs more driving down the HWY than you are now. As for driving around in the rain, man it's SOOOO much better. Yes, it will spin the tires, but I don't have to take off from a stop, like I'm 90 years old. It will excellirate normally, like the rest of the traffic does, and even a little faster before it starts to spin both tires. As for the install kit, yes that's what I did. I also used a crush sleeve eliminator kit. It takes a little more effort to install, but if for any reason, you need to remove the yoke, you can, and not effect your pinion depth setting. I also changed my rear brake cylinders, and replaced my axel shaft bearings. I wanted everything in my diff, new. It has been dead quite since the rebuild. I got most of my parts from Summit. The total for the rebuild, was $1100. I have no regrets, and the trutrac, will hold a lot of HP. I know a guy who has one on his 1967 Mustang GT 500 Shelby. He is pushing 865 HP at the rear tires.
 

highwaystar

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Had local shop install an Eaton Posi & Richmond gears and all bearings, yes on a bearing kit. I've done em before on jack stands but for 500.00 labor and reputable installer I handed it over. No issues for 2 yrs now. Reviews seemed to prefer Eaton diffs over Auburn. Yukon has good reviews too. TWO black marks now.
 

Schurkey

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Hi again Guys.
1990 GMC C1500 Shortbed mild 5.7 motor
4 speed auto tranny
I’ve got a 10 bolt with 3.42 gears.
I am looking for advice on either a locking differential or a posi rear install.
Putting money into a 10-bolt (8.5" ring gear) axle with crappy 254mm rear drum brakes is nuts.

Get a C2500 9.5" ring gear axle with 11.x duo-servo drums, in whatever axle ratio makes you smile. If that axle happens to have a Gov-Lock OEM "Locker" so much the better. If not, a Truetrack or other aftermarket "posi" is a fine add-on. You may need aftermarket axles to retain the 5-lug wheels. You get an axle that's MUCH stronger, enormously better brakes, and a "free" gear-ratio change which then requires some computer tuning to keep the rest of the vehicle happy.

IF (big IF) you don't remove/replace the pinion gear, and you re-use the ring gear, all you have to be concerned with is getting the backlash and bearing preload correct when you replace the differential case. Once you screw with the pinion, you'll have to perform the whole gear-mesh procedure. Do-able, but three times the work.

Just waiting on gas prices to get a little better first.
That'll never happen with the current administration. Dirtbag Buttgig and Senile Joe are fully-involved in The War on Cars.

Let's Go Brandon!
 

1989GMCSIERRA

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If it’s street driven…you’re gonna hate a locker on the street when turning. Or wet surfaces.

I’ve installed Auburn LS units on a few of my vehicles after the factory post unit went bad or worn or had a open diff. The Auburn is also rebuildable.

if you daily drive that truck get a limited slip. Stay away from the off brand stuff. Auburn Eaton Detroit…..stick to brand name stuff
 

RichLo

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Good advice here,

Wet rainy warm weather = LSD

Cold snowy weather = Real Detroit locker or spool or selectable locker

NEVER = a lunchbox locker
 

kennythewelder

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Just to clarify, an Eaton trutrac is a limited slip differential carrier. The trutrac works with helix gears. Not friction clutches. So there is nothing to ware out. That and all of the good things that I had heard about the trutrac, is why I went with it. I have new tires on my truck. 275/60/15s, so I don't do a lot of burn outs. Tires are expensive, but leaving the car show Saturday, I left 2 black marks about 20 yards or so long. I nailed the gas, while my truck was still turning. Once the tires do brake loose, it's not that hard to keep them spinning.
 

Schurkey

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The trutrac works with helix gears. Not friction clutches. So there is nothing to ware out.
I have an uninstalled Truetrac for my plow truck. Had hoped to get it installed before winter; but failed. (Who orders a truck intending to put a plow on it...and doesn't demand a locking differential???)

"Everything" wears out. I'm told the gears themselves wear in the Truetrac. Hopefully, it takes a very long time before that happens.
 
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