Overland K1500 Silverado Project "Old Red"

[Matt Dylan]

So up next will either be the SFI to MPFI conversion or replacing the bumper with a license plate bracket and bumper guard.

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(Image from 1AAuto.com) (Image from LMCTruck.com)

While I still need to de-lift the truck, the parts and process will need some extra tools and help since that part will be exceptionally dangerous so that will be put on the backburner for the time being, and while the truck is still lifted i can clean up the frame.

The MPFI Conversion will also go in hand with the rest of the fuel system PMCS/Replacements Including the pump/sending unit and filter, the fuel tank is pretty sound all things considered it just needs some new tank strap pads.

 

[Matt Dylan]

Ordered some heat shields and wire insulators for the spark plug wires and waiting for those to come in.

I got my final MPG numbers to determine the fate of the TB Spacer, 13.7mpg. TB Spacer is going away.

I ended up towing my sister's car (2008 Pontiac G6 GT sedan with the 3.5L V6) to the mechanic with the Chevy and it was perfectly happy towing the car while on the dolly. I will definitely want to see how well it fares when i have to haul cars on a normal car trailer, but this was a good indicator for things more within the realm of it's capabilities than a giant travel trailer (even if the travel trailer is technically within the towing capacity, it is certainly maxing out the truck).

Sadly i didn't get any pictures of the truck towing my sister's car, but maybe I'll get some pictures of the truck hauling my brother's car.

To sum up, so far it has no issues towing a full size sedan, tb spacer is snake oil, and I will be hauling a 2003 Mitsubishi Galant to either a mechanic, or someone willing to make the car a project car (or to scrap it).

 

[Overlandgmt400]

Nice i just got a blue 98 ill be doing similar with.

 

[Matt Dylan]

One thing that's gonna be interesting is going to be removing the bed without a hoist. i have to get that figured out to remove the spacer blocks welded to the frame, since the rest of the stuff is going to be easy with replacing bolts and I'm going for a Class 4 10K hitch to replace the rusted 5K rated hitch.

I found a set of steps by APS Running Boards that are currently going for just under $300 that bolt into the body mount areas so it looks really good and looks pretty solid.

I have my eyes on a set of 7200lb rated Delco leaf springs and shackles, since I'm going to be maximizing the whole 6400 GVWR of my truck with towing and hauling.

I checked the glove box and it does have the tow package, (add-a-leaf, external transmission oil cooler, wiring harness, etc.) but has the GU6 code but no G80 going to run either a clutched or torsen LSD with 3.73 gears when my time and finances allow but i want to ask you guys, should i do clutched rear torsen front or can i do torsen front and rear with a towing/daily driver/soft-roader?

While the loss of the body lift is going to make the truck look less "heavy duty" but the steps and planned new bumper with accessories will bring a new (and more stable) look.

 

[Sean Buick 76]

Yup my one ton C3500 CCLB is shorter than a current model half ton 4x4. Height wise anyway! And actually the modern crew shorties are only about a foot shorter in length than my REAL truck.... Amazing how they get bigger, but not really more useable.

Agreed! This is why I’m keeping my 92 stock height and it will be about 2.5’ lower than my 2012 with a lift.

 

[Sean Buick 76]

One thing that's gonna be interesting is going to be removing the bed without a hoist. i have to get that figured out to remove the spacer blocks welded to the frame, since the rest of the stuff is going to be easy with replacing bolts and I'm going for a Class 4 10K hitch to replace the rusted 5K rated hitch.

I found a set of steps by APS Running Boards that are currently going for just under $300 that bolt into the body mount areas so it looks really good and looks pretty solid.

I have my eyes on a set of 7200lb rated Delco leaf springs and shackles, since I'm going to be maximizing the whole 6400 GVWR of my truck with towing and hauling.

I checked the glove box and it does have the tow package, (add-a-leaf, external transmission oil cooler, wiring harness, etc.) but has the GU6 code but no G80 going to run either a clutched or torsen LSD with 3.73 gears when my time and finances allow but i want to ask you guys, should i do clutched rear torsen front or can i do torsen front and rear with a towing/daily driver/soft-roader?

While the loss of the body lift is going to make the truck look less "heavy duty" but the steps and planned new bumper with accessories will bring a new (and more stable) look.

Simply Jack it up and slide some 8 foot long 4x4s under it. Support the 4x4s and drive the truck out from under the box.

 

[Matt Dylan]

Dug up some old pictures from around the time that i purchased the truck back in 2017, well before I had really understood the vehicle and was learning how to drive it and how everything worked. what's hilarious is that i immediately decided to go for the "trail boss" style before Chevy had even made that an option yet. All those stickers and the cracked skull and crossbones badge really seem to be the PA staple along with the oversized tires and body lift.

A purchase i made out of desperation has turned into the best investment I've made since.

Before my buddy accidentally backed into the front with this 2016 GMC Canyon leaving a chrome dent in the front of my truck and wedging his tailgate shut.

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after replacing the door handle that had snapped, but all of the pins had stripped. so 100mph tape was needed before i found replacement trim and door card pins.

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From a good angle, it looks like i plowed into that tree.

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It's not really a wonder why this truck failed safety when I was trying to get it registered, but i will say that it's great that i live in a county that doesn't require safety or emissions so i can make repairs at my own pace as my budget permits.
I also do not miss the 12mpg average that this thing used to get, the exhaust leaking into the cab, the non-working AC, or the busted mirror controls. the only thing that actually worked reliably was the 4x4 but that died two years ago, now it's just 2hi and 2lo effectively.

(I still have no idea why it did so horribly at sea level, it actually gained 2mpg as i went up in elevation and averaged 14.2mpg on the E-Rated tires and aftermarket exhaust at 4000-ish miles above sea level)

This truck has been simultaneously the biggest POS and Unkillable Beast i have ever owned and will probably ever own. It shrugged off Florence, and the 2017-2018 Polar Vortex like it was nothing, was crashed during the storm, and then drove 2000 miles across the country to my home town where I've owned it since.

The "Service Engine Soon" light has been off since i replaced the O2 sensors, the TPS, the IAC, and the EGR, the steering is still slightly sloppy, but I'll be fixing that with the tie rod adjustments to correct the steering wheel.

Front diff still needs new oil.

T-case needs fluid and a seal.

Most of the repairs on on backburner because of other projects and lack of work due to being between contracts.

Thanks for joining on this nostalgia trip.

 

[Matt Dylan]

Removed the TB Spacer and installed the heat shields. I routed the throttle and cruise control cables under the AC line and it looks a little bit more streamlined.

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Not much else going on with the build currently, i just have to figure out how to remove the old remnants of the front bump stops to install the Timbren SES upgrades.

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You may notice that in the picture above that what is left of the OE bump stops is the metal plate that used to hold the rubber block, the bolts are so rotted that you'd be forgiven in thinking that the are rivets.

So the question is: Sawzall or grinding wheel?

 

[Matt Dylan]

I've had an idea for a while now. It will change the suspension geometry and I'm curious to see how it will turn out. I've located parts and it is pretty straightforward in assembly but it's mostly dependent on the availability of the aftermarket modifications (the shackle flip and axle flip kit)

I did a rough drawing that captures the basic idea of what I'm planning.

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the final product should be around 0-2" around stock but i do expect to need spacers for the timbren bump stops.

 

[Matt Dylan]

I took my trailer out to dump the tanks and i decoupled from my dually to use Red to maneuver through the yard.

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Gave me a chance to test my Timbren SES Bump Stops and new 6k hitch with a 2 5/16" ball. and i can say that they are rock solid, however the springs were flat on the overloads still but it definitely stabilized the truck a good deal but the 3/4-ton springs and 3.73's are a must in the future along with a trailer brake controller.
I wonder if i can get some spacers for the Timbrens.

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Unfortunately it looks like my current 5k receiver is going to have to go, along with the rust damage from PA the Grade 8 hardware i purchased to a few years back keep it on the frame isn't up to the task.

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I have a 6k/10k(WDH) on my wishlist to replace the current hitch as this is a real hazard and fortunately I only hook Red up to the evergreen for maneuvering through the yard to properly park it since my Crew-Cab Long Bed dually is too large for where it's parked on the property.