When I swapped flat tappet cam and lifters (not cam bearings) I gained ~10 PSI. Now it's at 20 PSI warm at idle, ~50 at 2000RPM+, with the Mobil1 extended mileage filter and 10W40.
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You shouldn't, especially with a roller cam. When breaking in a flat tappet cam you're work hardening it, not grinding it down.If the retrofit camshaft and lifters are new won't i get more metal material in the filter and oil do to the cam and lifters getting broken in?
What RPM are you idling at. Before I did the swap i was getting 40psi at idle to 60psi at 2000rpm +. I'm about to adjust the throttle so i can idle closer to 1k RPM at idle while in gear with it being warmed up.When I swapped flat tappet cam and lifters (not cam bearings) I gained ~10 PSI. Now it's at 20 PSI warm at idle, ~50 at 2000RPM+, with the Mobil1 extended mileage filter and 10W40.
700 - 750 depending if I have the A/C on.What RPM are you idling at.
You should have some oil coming out around the lifters. More than a seep but less than a squirt. it will ooze out but it shouldn't be a big deal.Thanks for the oil information, didn't know that's what the number stamp was. Using AC Delco filter PF-52. I don't know what the bearing clearance is off hand. I'll dig through my pile of paperwork to hopefully get the specifics.
Also, how much oil should I be getting out around the lifters? Would the lifters have anything to do with oil pressure?
1/2" chuck, "500 rpm" air drill. The LAST thing a person needs is a drill that runs at 2K rpm like most 3/8 drills.By the way your electric drill will work very hard and plot your violent demise if it gets too hot while you are prelubing so try not to melt it! Mixing paint and prelubing engines are the reasons I bought an air drill!
Watch to see that all the rockers get oil as the engine rotates. Not all of them will get oil at the same time.