MT2500 ?

[Schurkey]

I don't recall seeing any electrolytics on the mainboard. I usually test them and if they're just fine I leave them.

My philosophy is to replace the lil' bastages on sight. Truth is, I'm too lazy to actually do that...but I don't trust an electrolytic cap any farther than I can throw it after it's ~20 years old.

I've recapped multiple loudspeaker crossovers, a Bose 901-V equalizer, a CD player, a couple of dbx 118s, and various other (mostly audio) projects. The audio stuff always sounds better after the aged-out electrolytics are in the trash.

The cartridges themselves are loaded right full of tantalum caps. Those do exciting things when they decide to cut loose.

Yeah, I learned about Tantalums during my dbx recapping/repair.

I'm told they're not wildly reliable, either. But I've never seen one actually popped. I put in fresh ones "just because".

It does boot wicked slow with the black cartridges.

20--30 minutes, less in summer than in winter? Naw, there was SOMETHING wrong with mine.

The red primary carts boot right up.

Not mine.

Honestly this thing is really only good for OBD1 but it is great for that.

Since I've never used anything but Snap-On scan tools (MT/MTG2500, and Solus Pro) for the last twenty-plus years, I've got nothing to compare to. However, I thought it worked just fine on OBD2 except for auto-bleed of the ABS; (14.2 will auto-bleed, I don't know when that started--I've heard 9.x and 10.x) and the very limited graphing capability of the MTG2500 which is a genuine downside. OTOH, the MT2500 has ZERO graphing and that's getting towards unacceptable even for OBD2.

I have a Tech2 for 1992-2010 GM rigs

I have this hypothesis, relating to my '03 Trailblazer. I suspect that with a Tech 2, I can disable the Damned Daytime Running Lights by turning the PCM pulse-width to zero. Which beats the relays and wiring mess I have keeping the DDRLs dark now.

But I've never seen a Tech 2 in real life, let alone held one in my hand.

So I don't know if my thoughts on fixing DDRLs would actually work. GM has a "secret" method of dealing with them, but I don't have access to that bulletin.

I am looking at trying out a Solus Pro or Modis with a scope module on my OBD1 rigs. The graphing capability would be real nice for viewing trends in the live data. They'll both use the MT2500 cables & adapters so I can buy a bare tool, clean it up, and reload the battery with fresh cells. Even if it comes without the charger, I can use an old AC power pak that has 12v DC 3A output from my drawer of wall warts.
I'm keeping the brick and my Tech2 tho.

I went from MTG2500 to Solus Pro 8.2; occasionally a Solus Pro 14.2.

The much-improved graphing and generally bigger screen is the big deal. Secondarily, there's memory for the last dozen or more vehicles that have been worked-on, so I have my entire fleet loaded in memory--I don't have to enter the VIN number each time.

There's a removable memory card, which I have not played with at all. I guess it allowed the tool to be updated via the internet, moving the card from a computer to the scan tool; and allows taking scan tool info from the tool memory to a computer to "show the customer" or for intensive study after-hours. Of course, there's NO updates for the Solus Pro any more. Support ended years ago.

And, yes, being able to use all my previously-obtained vehicle connectors and Personality Keys is nice.

The 8.2 Solus Pro came with a functional battery. Maybe doesn't have full and proper battery charge life, but it works just fine for me. The 14.2 Solus Pro had a dead battery that would not take a charge. I kept trying to charge it on-and-off. One time, I left the silly thing in the charger for about a week (I forgot it was in there) and when I came back...it works. Again, probably not to full capacity, but enough to scan a couple vehicles which is all I need.

 

[hatzie]

My philosophy is to replace the lil' bastages on sight. Truth is, I'm too lazy to actually do that...but I don't trust an electrolytic cap any farther than I can throw it after it's ~20 years old.

I've recapped multiple loudspeaker crossovers, a Bose 901-V equalizer, a CD player, a couple of dbx 118s, and various other (mostly audio) projects. The audio stuff always sounds better after the aged-out electrolytics are in the trash.


Yeah, I learned about Tantalums during my dbx recapping/repair.

I'm told they're not wildly reliable, either. But I've never seen one actually popped. I put in fresh ones "just because".


20--30 minutes, less in summer than in winter? Naw, there was SOMETHING wrong with mine.


Not mine.


Since I've never used anything but Snap-On scan tools (MT/MTG2500, and Solus Pro) for the last twenty-plus years, I've got nothing to compare to. However, I thought it worked just fine on OBD2 except for auto-bleed of the ABS; and the very limited graphing capability of the MTG2500 which is a genuine downside. OTOH, the MT2500 has ZERO graphing and that's getting towards unacceptable even for OBD2.


I have this hypothesis, relating to my '03 Trailblazer. I suspect that with a Tech 2, I can disable the Damned Daytime Running Lights by turning the PCM pulse-width to zero. Which beats the relays and wiring mess I have keeping the DDRLs dark now.

But I've never seen a Tech 2 in real life, let alone held one in my hand.

So I don't know if my thoughts on fixing DDRLs would actually work. GM has a "secret" method of dealing with them, but I don't have access to that bulletin.


I went from MTG2500 to Solus Pro 8.2; occasionally a Solus Pro 14.2.

The much-improved graphing and generally bigger screen is the big deal. Secondarily, there's memory for the last dozen or more vehicles that have been worked-on, so I have my entire fleet loaded in memory--I don't have to enter the VIN number each time.

There's a removable memory card, which I have not played with at all. I guess it allowed the tool to be updated via the internet, moving the card from a computer to the scan tool; and allows taking scan tool info from the tool memory to a computer to "show the customer" or for intensive study after-hours. Of course, there's NO updates for the Solus Pro any more. Support ended years ago.

And, yes, being able to use all my previously-obtained vehicle connectors and Personality Keys is nice.

The 8.2 Solus Pro came with a functional battery. Maybe doesn't have full and proper battery charge life, but it works just fine for me. The 14.2 Solus Pro had a dead battery that would not take a charge. I kept trying to charge it on-and-off. One time, I left the silly thing in the charger for about a week (I forgot it was in there) and when I came back...it works. Again, probably not to full capacity, but enough to scan a couple vehicles which is all I need.

I've found some tools work better on some model vehicles than other tools. Some functions are available on Tool A but not on Tool B. My Autel is great on GM and Toyota but not as good on VW so I have a Ross Tech cable. I find it best to have a few different tools.
My Chinese SP23-B Tech2 is actually pretty decent. I paid a little over $250 for mine but I bought it 10 years ago.
Here's a thread about them on the SAAB message board. SAAB Forum Tech2 Clone thread

I don't know what battery cells they've got in the Snap On Solus Pro and Modis 300 handheld tools battery packs. Probably NiMh or possibly even NiCd chemistry depending on how cheap they were being. If they used Nickel cells they are likely flat top AA or flat top sub-C cells. I doubt they sprung for 18650 Lithium cells but it might be possible.
You can buy modern industrial NiCd & NiMh cells with a lot higher amp hours than the original 2002 batteries.
Modern 18650 Lithium cells have improved power density over 15-20 year old batteries. Panasonic NCR18650G are 3600mah LG INR18650-M36 are 3550mah.

If you're not going for complete originality you can replace NiCd with NiMh cells that have significantly higher power density. 1100 mah NiCd vs 2500mah NiMh.
I just reloaded a battery pack in an antique Toshiba T1900 486 laptop with 1100 milliamp hour NiCd flat top AA cells. The original cells in the pack were 500 milliamp hour so the charged capacity is a little over double what the original paks were. If I'd gone with nickel metal hydride the capacity would have been nearly 5x the originals but I was worried about the charge circuits in my antique.
My guess is these handhelds have got between 7 and 12 cells depending on how they're laid out and how large the cells are.
I've seen $90 ish quoted for rebuilding Solus battery paks with new cells. I have a cell welder so I can do it myself for the cost of the cells, hot snot, and nickel straps.
If you don't want to DIY just go to Batteries Plus they'll crack open the old pak and weld up fresh industrial cells with nickel tabs for you and properly close the battery pak.

 

[Schurkey]

I am looking at trying out a Solus Pro or Modis with a scope module on my OBD1 rigs. The graphing capability would be real nice for viewing trends in the live data. They'll both use the MT2500 cables & adapters so I can buy a bare tool

There's a Modis 16.2 on eBay right now. Mildly wounded, the lower half of the screen has some issues--but still seems readable. No accessories included, but the price could be "right" for someone with skills and the Snappy adapters that could be shared with another tool.

Snap on Modis Scanner EEMS300 Updated Until 2015 for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Snap on Modis Scanner EEMS300 Updated Until 2015 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

I know your user name from...somewhere. Thirdgen.org?

 

[GoToGuy]

Here's a pic of the connector...

The VIN for the P-30 is in my signature. tell me some more about the Solus, Solus Pro and Solus Ultra. Much appreciated.

In case nobody mentioned it that is the "12 pin" ALDL , OBD1. Rectangle connector.

 

[hatzie]

There's a Modis 16.2 on eBay right now. Mildly wounded, the lower half of the screen has some issues--but still seems readable. No accessories included, but the price could be "right" for someone with skills and the Snappy adapters that could be shared with another tool.

Snap on Modis Scanner EEMS300 Updated Until 2015 for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Snap on Modis Scanner EEMS300 Updated Until 2015 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

I know your user name from...somewhere. Thirdgen.org?

Mildly worried about the longevity of the wounded screen on that one. That kind of screen behavior on a laptop is usually from being dropped.
It could be as simple as a loose screen ribbon connector or as bad as a failing grid on the screen or damage to the screen controls on the mainboard depending on how it is laid out.

I'm Hatzie on Impalaforums, T800 forums, 67-72 Chevy Truck Boards, Squarebody forums, and Chris's 73-87 boards among others.

 

[hatzie]

Rather than open my brick back up I did a search for one that's been opened. It's been a couple years since I cleaned my scanner. Notice the lovely celluloid ribbon cables for the monitor. Alll kinds of fun to get those situated so they don't come out when you close the shell.
https://gtsparkplugs.com/Snap-On-MT2500-5.html

Looks like there are five small diameter axial electrolytic caps and one big radial cap. Not sure of the values. Four near the Maxim 202 data transceiver chip, one on the opposite end of the board, and a fairly large radial on the bottom of the board near the keep alive battery connector... probably for power smoothing.
I usually lift one leg of axial caps and do an ESR and capacitance test. If the tantalums aren't shorted I just leave those alone. I solder the lifted leg or the whole cap back in the board as long as they pass muster and let em roll. These are likely Sprague and Panasonic components from the 1980's. Those are generally much much higher quality than the 1990's and later components including the top shelf stuff I can source now. I've opened up early to mid 1980's Atari & Nintendo consoles and arcade games with perfectly fine 1980's caps on the controller boards and I leave them. I only replace them if they're actually bad or they're situated near a heat source like the caps in power supplies and the ones near transformers like monitor flybacks, power supply transformers, and transistor heatsinks. Usually the hot caps are way off on capacitance or ESR or both.

20-30 minutes is way out of line. The black carts take about a minute or minute and a half to wake up but not more than 2. I would guess the slow load times are probably dirty slots and dirty cartridges. Put the card edge of the cartridge under your bench microscope and look at it. It's funny how bad the corrosion and filth can get and still look fine to your naked eye. I've brought a couple well loved game systems back to life for my nieces and nephews by just thoroughly cleaning the slots and the cartridges. The card edge connectors are the same tech. Games are exposed to a lot less filth than these tools were in garage service.

The female board edge connectors with the 90° terminals are still available from one of the usual suspects. I remember looking them up when I had mine apart. Just in case I wasn't able to clean the fingers well enough to make me happy. I was darn happy they cleaned up with my old electric toothbrush, Deoxit, and compressed air.
Desoldering that many pins in close proximity is kinda miserable even with a vacuum desoldering tool, low melting point solder, and hot air pencil.

 

[Schurkey]

Friggin' outstanding.

 

[jdjonesdr]

If you don't have a great deal of patience I wouldn't open up the red brick. The connector cable is two celluloid ribbon cables stuffed into connectors like antique 386 & 486 laptop display & keyboard cables. They're an SOB to get slid back in and close up the case. I have experience with those those kind of little monsters and it still took me more than one try to get them seated so the display was working.

I don't recall seeing any electrolytics on the mainboard. I usually test them and if they're just fine I leave them.

The cartridges themselves are loaded right full of tantalum caps. Those do exciting things when they decide to cut loose.

It does boot wicked slow with the black cartridges. Probably pushing the 1987 technology way outside it's envelope.
The red primary carts boot right up.
Honestly this thing is really only good for OBD1 but it is great for that.
I have a Tech2 for 1992-2010 GM rigs and an up to date Autel Maxsys for OBDII & CAN. Neither of those will talk to my 1990 Cavalier Z24 and Corvette. My cousin has an 89 F body and my brother has a 1990 K2500. So I've used the brick a bunch with them.
I am looking at trying out a Solus Pro or Modis with a scope module on my OBD1 rigs. The graphing capability would be real nice for viewing trends in the live data. They'll both use the MT2500 cables & adapters so I can buy a bare tool, clean it up, and reload the battery with fresh cells. Even if it comes without the charger, I can use an old AC power pak that has 12v DC 3A output from my drawer of wall warts.
I'm keeping the brick and my Tech2 tho.

Jumping in:

New to me MT2500 scanner.

Where do I plug in the 12V cable? Or is the 9V battery enough? I don't have any sort of barrel plug receptacle on my scanner, just the telephone type of plug like you see here. (I borrowed your pictures, thanks)

You must be registered for see images attach

I also have a Bosch 1300 scanner that reads my '94 without a problem. It's the only Bosch that works for OBDI

 

[hatzie]

Jumping in:

New to me MT2500 scanner.

Where do I plug in the 12V cable? Or is the 9V battery enough? I don't have any sort of barrel plug receptacle on my scanner, just the telephone type of plug like you see here. (I borrowed your pictures, thanks)

You must be registered for see images attach

I also have a Bosch 1300 scanner that reads my '94 without a problem. It's the only Bosch that works for OBDI

The RJ12 jack you circled on the back is an RS232 serial port. You can send data to a VT100 terminal or RS232 serial printer.

The MT2500 doesn't have an external power supply. The vehicle diagnostic port provides power and ground on Terminals 1 & 15 to run the tool.
The 9V battery will power up the unit as long as you hold the red button down. I don't bother with the 9v battery. It'll be upset with you during bootstrap but it won't affect operation.

You can get an MT2500-600A Super Power Pak if you can stomach the prices I'm seeing.
It's a clever little widget that passes the comms ground and power through while making the tool separate from the vehicle battery.
The evilbay sellers are super duper proud of these, judging from their prices, and they'll likely come with very very very dead batteries inside.
My tool came with one that had a leaking battery and no charger. I decided since I had the pak I might as well make it work. I've used it once on my brothers' truck cause the tool was shutting down when we cranked it.
The original battery pak inside the widget is 7 500mah flat top NiCd AA cells welded in series. I re-loaded mine with 7 1100mah flat top AA NiCd cells glued together with hot snot and with nickel tabs welded in series. The bare cells were $28 but I bet they cost more now.
The batteries have red and black 18 0r 20ga copper wires that were mostly jackets filled with green goo and battery juice. The terminals in the Molex KK156 plug were white and furry and the plug on the PC board was furry. According to my 2018 Mouser order Molex 08-58-0122 is the Molex KK156 terminal part number. I replaced the SPDT ON-ON switch too. I forgot about that.
The original Snap On charger for the super power pakis 24vDC 100ma 5.5mm x 2.5mm centre positive barrel plug. 24vDC 800ma or 1A with 5.5mm x 2.5mm centre positive barrel plug are easy to find and nearly free. My local thrift store always has all kinds of power supplies for cordless landline phones, adding machines, toys, laptops, speakers, game consoles, ...

I found several Super Power Paks on evilbay. These guys are really super proud of these things. They range in price from just a little too much to way way way too much to good lord what are they smoking. Guaranteed they have leaking dead power cells inside. I wouldn't pay more than $20 for one since you'll be cleaning up the leaked battery juice and the battery cells ain't cheap.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

The Vetronix Mastertech Bosch MTS is essentially a Tech1 with a big screen. You will not get a better handheld to talk to the OBD1 GM stuff. These were better than the Tech1 & Tech 1A. I had one several years ago and sold it along with a bunch of other stuff to pay for a divorce.
The MTS uses the Tech1 program cartridges and data cable adapters, but finding program cartridges may be an interesting scavenger hunt.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Schurkey]

The circled port can send the info on the display to the Counselor II diagnostic oscilloscope screen. The Counselor II does not do any OBD diagnostics, but the larger cathode-ray tube can display more lines of info at a time than the four line display on the MT/MTG2500.