Motor Pull

[Travis Shepherd]

Motor seized up on the way home the other day. Got a used motor saw running out of a suburban, same year Vortec motor. Radiator is out, compressor is disconnected, throttle cables will be disconnected. Headers are loosened and will be pulled tonight. As well as the distributor for clearance. So next step? Anyone know once I get under there what the best way to pull it is? Which bolts underneath am I loosening, I want to keep the transmission in, it is only 2wd so no tcase either. How do I access the mount bolts?

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[slowburb]

Take your time. Bag and tag everything, and take more pictures. Support the transmission from underneath. Undo bolts around transmission bellhousing. Undo motor mounts.

 

[evilunclegrimace]

Don't forget to unbolt the Torque converter from the flex plate

 

[c1500deathtrap]

If you pull the front clip it is much easier, but not necessary. Support the tranny with a floor jack and some wood or something similar, hook the engine up to your hoist, a load leveler is preferred, then pull the flexplate bolts there are 3 of them. But if the motor is dead solid seized then you won't be able to get to all 3 flexplate bolts. if that is the case leave them and just skip straight to the bellhousing bolts. After all of the bellhousing bolts are out undo the motor mounts and start pulling. Carefully of course. A side note, if the flexplate bolts can't be removed you will need a fair bit of room to slide the engine and torque converter as an assembly forward. there is a spline that engages them about 8ish inches will be needed.

 

[Tdean91491]

6 bell housing bolts if 9/16 best to use some long extensions. There 3 of them that have brackets on them you’ll need a 13mm to take them off before you can actually get to the 9/16 housing bolt. The two bottom ones on the bell housing have the little shield with the wires running through it then the 3rd one on the driver side has the bracket for the fuel lines if I’m not mistaken.

 

[Tdean91491]

I also found it easier if your on the ground to remove the transmission cross member that way you can tilt the motor a little little farther back to get to the housing bolts a little easier.


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[Travis Shepherd]

Thanks guys for all the replies, I got the two low bolts from the bellhousing and then trying to figure out how to get to the top two, which I think you all answered. Behind the distributor I see a small maybe 11 mm or something but that seems kind of small for a bolt that holds the two together. But makes sense with the brackets you mentioned.I got 3 of 4 bolts off the TC but couldn’t rotate anymore to get the 4th so I guess the TC is coming with the motor. Good idea with the removal of the crossmember I’ll do that this afternoon.

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[Travis Shepherd]

Was panicking searching YouTube and forums but all posts seemed to be years old, glad people are still active


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[Tdean91491]

Thanks guys for all the replies, I got the two low bolts from the bellhousing and then trying to figure out how to get to the top two, which I think you all answered. Behind the distributor I see a small maybe 11 mm or something but that seems kind of small for a bolt that holds the two together. But makes sense with the brackets you mentioned.I got 3 of 4 bolts off the TC but couldn’t rotate anymore to get the 4th so I guess the TC is coming with the motor. Good idea with the removal of the crossmember I’ll do that this afternoon.

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For the one top side on the driver side grab a 9/16 broke neck wrench and go right behind the fuel lines on top I found it way more efficient to go that route if your working on the ground and not a lift

 

[Travis Shepherd]

For the one top side on the driver side grab a 9/16 broke neck wrench and go right behind the fuel lines on top I found it way more efficient to go that route if your working on the ground and not a lift

Honest question, how hard would it be to pull the tranny with it? What all would need to be disconnected then? Connectors and driveshaft?


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