Lower Control Arm Bolts

[SUBURBAN5]

Thanks to everyone that replied.

I do have new AC Delco bushings, but I don't believe they came with bolts. I'll double check.

I have a nut and bolt place I've gone to for specialty bolts. They should have whatever I need.

Was trying to look at GM parts sites and diagrams, but I was having a hard time finding the bolts.

Tried a torch a bit, but I can't see the sleeve where it is rusted and I don't want to get parts I'm keeping too hot. I have been soaking it in PB Blaster. Then heat it up with a torch and soak it again. I'm going to take another good shot at it before I start cutting. I have spun 1 of the bolts a full 360° with a 2' breaker bar.

Sounds like a tough one. With out seeing it. May need to chop it and use a punch to push it through. Btw is the arm loose or bolted all together with tension?

 

[RPMerf]

Connected by the 2 bolts at the frame and the torsion bar. Knuckle and shock are removed. Sway bar is disconnected. I can move it up and down pretty easily, so not under tension. Nuts are off, but the bolts don't want to move. I got the one to spin barely using a 2' breaker bar, but it doesn't like moving. Not sure if the bolt is spinning inside the sleeve, or if the sleeve is moving with it. I tried hammering the bolts out with a 3lb hammer, but they haven't moved.

Thinking I will sawzall through the bolts. Should be able to get a blade between the frame and control arm to cut the bolt.

 

[SUBURBAN5]

Connected by the 2 bolts at the frame and the torsion bar. Knuckle and shock are removed. Sway bar is disconnected. I can move it up and down pretty easily, so not under tension. Nuts are off, but the bolts don't want to move. I got the one to spin barely using a 2' breaker bar, but it doesn't like moving. Not sure if the bolt is spinning inside the sleeve, or if the sleeve is moving with it. I tried hammering the bolts out with a 3lb hammer, but they haven't moved.

Thinking I will sawzall through the bolts. Should be able to get a blade between the frame and control arm to cut the bolt.

If you had a air chisel you could do a punch. Hitting it with a hammer is a pain. Plus I've heard the bushings are tack welded. Mine a 2wd and the bolts came out like butter. But then again my truck has the rpo code to self lubricate its underside so rust doesn't have a chance to corrode

 

[TechNova]

don't those bolts haev a shouder? older ones did,

 

[SUBURBAN5]

don't those bolts haev a shouder? older ones did,

What is that?

 

[Insert Quarter]

Every time I've ran into this, I try to use the new bolt as is and end up struggling with it.

Then I grind a taper on the treaded end of it like the stock ones have, and everything goes together smoothly.

Make sure to clean up the threads and put some paint on it after grinding off the coating on the end, I also replace the type "C" lock nuts and grab a couple extra while I'm at it for future use.

 

[Cokeman95]

97 Suburban K1500 4WD

Had a clunk in the front end so I am replacing the upper control arms, lower control arm bushings, lower ball joints, and tie rods. Everything was going smoothly until I got to the lower bolts. They seem to be rusted into the bushing sleeve. I can barely get them to move with a breaker bar, and my impact and beating on them with a hammer has not been able to get them out so far. I think I am going to have to cut them out.

Does anyone have a source for LCA bolts? Should I just look for grade 8 bolts in the appropriate size?

Thank you

I bought new control arm bolts from LMC when I did mine a couple years ago.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

[tykar3]

don't those bolts haev a shouder? older ones did,

yeah mine did, i replaced them with regular washers. do you know if that’s a big deal or should i use the original washers??

 

[fancyTBI]

yeah mine did, i replaced them with regular washers. do you know if that’s a big deal or should i use the original washers??

I reused the original. Just cleaned them up some.