Lift Tire Size Conundrum...

[FA31]

So I’m restoring/modding my 96 Tahoe Sport.

This is way more complicated than I wish it was.

In the past on these I did 6” lift and 35’s or 4” lift & 2” body & 35’s.

It’s getting a brand new paint job shortly, I don’t want any rub at all! I don’t want to bend my fender back either.

I am willing to trim the air dam.

I have read this forum and others and apparently most 6” lifts aren’t a true 6” inch like the old Cepek lifts were.

I also don’t want a spindle lift that pushes the tires out.

I’m also leery of a torsion key lift and it riding poorly, however I’ve seen some people say a Zone torsion key kit is fine. Interested to hear if anyone has a torsion kit they like.

So my question is, if I want to run 35x12.50’s what lift is necessary to have no rub and only plastic trimming?

The other option is 33x12.50’s.

So, should I do a 2” body lift and 33x12.50’s?

A 4” suspension lift and 33x12.50’s?

Is there a torsion key set that rides well and would fit 33x12.50’s with no rub?

I’d be super pissed if I painted this thing, and my 35’s on a 6” lift rubbed. I’m also going to be pissed if it rides like crap.

I realize wheel offset affects this too, I will do the minimum offset to avoid rub, don’t want them to stick out any further than they have to.

Apologize for the multi-facet question, but I greatly appreciate any input to help me make a more informed decision.

Any pics of your setup and what it is would awesome too, hell I’ll Venmo you a cup of coffee for the effort, I’m stressing over this because it’s my new baby and want it to be right.

I kinda worry a 4” lift and 33x12.50’s will leave too much empty in the wheel house and not look as good.

I’m never taking it off road, but I will build it nonetheless.

Doing a 14 bolt swap with TrueTrac, upgraded 4L60E, will lower the gears, etc.

Yeah it’s dumb, but don’t care, will build it to be capable, but won’t take it Off-Road.

Thank you!

 

[b454rat]

I have a 96 Yukon with 4" lift and 33s. No rub any where. I put some 315/70/17s on that I have laying around, and they rub. I had a 99 I think Tahoe, 6" suspension 3" body, looked goofy with 35s, but rubbed with 38.5 boggers. IMO, 6" lift for 35s, and 4" for 33s. Mine looks good with 4" and 33s, (285/75/16), and with the flares the tires are about even with the edge of the flare. Torsion keys are snake oil, they are just a glorified crank. I have a pic of my Yukon on here, but google has some too. Too bad far away, gonna be taking the lift off for an SAS.

 

[FA31]

I have a 96 Yukon with 4" lift and 33s. No rub any where. I put some 315/70/17s on that I have laying around, and they rub. I had a 99 I think Tahoe, 6" suspension 3" body, looked goofy with 35s, but rubbed with 38.5 boggers. IMO, 6" lift for 35s, and 4" for 33s. Mine looks good with 4" and 33s, (285/75/16), and with the flares the tires are about even with the edge of the flare. Torsion keys are snake oil, they are just a glorified crank. I have a pic of my Yukon on here, but google has some too. Too bad far away, gonna be taking the lift off for an SAS.

Thank you, that’s very helpful!

 

[Supercharged111]

The RC lift is 4" uncranked, 6" cranked from what I understand.

 

[FA31]

The RC lift is 4" uncranked, 6" cranked from what I understand.

May go this route, just hope 33’s fill up the space well.

 

[Supercharged111]

May go this route, just hope 33’s fill up the space well.

I have 285/70/17 with just a crank in the front and 2500 leaves out back. They don't rub on the street, but will rub if I flex at full lock. These are a true 33" tire, but narrower than what you're suggesting. I imagine 33x12.50 and a 4" lift would have plenty of clearance. Rim offset will play a role here too.

 

[b454rat]

First pic is how it sits now. 4” lift, 285/75/16s, 8” wheels, close to neutral offset. Tires pretty much flush with flares.

second pic is with old school rally’s and 33x12.5s.

last pic with 315/70/17s, rubbed on flares.

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[Mr_white_obs]

May go this route, just hope 33’s fill up the space well.

Exactly. If you measure the distance between the bolt holes on the drop brackets, they drop the components 5-1/8"

I measured before and after when I put the RCX lift in and it measured 5" increase on the same tires and I pretty much left the keys where they were at stock.

This is it with 285/75r16's - absolutely no rubbing at any angle. I also had 285/75r17's for a bit and they never rubbed either

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[GeorgiaMtnClimber]

I have the 4/6 RCX lift and have left it at 4in with 285/75/16 el cheapo MTs on procomp 252s with -6mm offset. CVs are completely flat and it rides more or less like a stock truck. Only time I've heard it rub was full lock in reverse with the back end of the truck in a ditch but even then wasn't much at all. Pics are right after RCX install and front end has leveled a bit since then. If you're thinking about the same kit and are worried about ride quality I'd consider upgrading shocks and ditching the rear block. And also not buying el cheapo MTs.

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[Supercharged111]

I have the 4/6 RCX lift and have left it at 4in with 285/75/16 el cheapo MTs on procomp 252s with -6mm offset. CVs are completely flat and it rides more or less like a stock truck. Only time I've heard it rub was full lock in reverse with the back end of the truck in a ditch but even then wasn't much at all. Pics are right after RCX install and front end has leveled a bit since then. If you're thinking about the same kit and are worried about ride quality I'd consider upgrading shocks and ditching the rear block. And also not buying el cheapo MTs.

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If you're not running a block what method did you use to lift the rear? I know ORD makes a shackle flip good for around 4".