Key wont come out and wont shift out of park.

[JDurks2]

can't find much on my issue. Dropped dash and replaced the hvac door box, put back together, replaced mode selectors, swapped vacuum pump and vacuum lines (its a 6.5 diesel). Got it all back together, batteries is dead. Key can turn but won't come out and it won't shift out of park. It's not on any more of a slope than normal. I tried turning the steering wheel to get key out and shift out of park. No luck. It worked fine before I parked it to work on it. Does the batteries dying have anything to do with that?

 

[GoToGuy]

Shift interlock functional before working on it? What model year? Is the key in " off " position? Key tumbler cylinder damaged, worn out?

 

[Schurkey]

WHAT VEHICLE?

Does this have the insane interlock where the brake pedal has to be pushed to shift out of Park? Does the brake switch work and is adjusted properly?

 

[JDurks2]

Sorry guys just saw the replies. It's a 98 suburban k2500 with the 6.5. Key will cycle through and start/run it. It will shift but without pulling the stick back, just over into a gear. Key will cycle back until just before all the way off/ pull Key out mode.

 

[AuroraGirl]

Sorry guys just saw the replies. It's a 98 suburban k2500 with the 6.5. Key will cycle through and start/run it. It will shift but without pulling the stick back, just over into a gear. Key will cycle back until just before all the way off/ pull Key out mode.

check your shifter cable condition but you should crawl to your transmission and verify its in park with your hand /visually. Then pop the shifter cable off the trans. Then try working your column, brake, and key switch to remove. at this point, you should adjust your shifter the factory procedure. On FWD 4t65e it was push the shifter FORWARD when you are in 1 all the way right, then shift up slowly until you arent let any further, this will guarantee neutral on that shift gate. I dont know what the RWD trans adjustment is, but the idea is you can put the column in neutral, you can put the trans in true neutral because of the clear detent turns and then counting from one direction.

Whatever it is for the trucks, if you then see your cable is "not a slip on" at that point, your cable is probably near death

 

[Keeper]

4L80e. Shifter cable is not fully engaging P on the side of tranny?? My guess is rusted sheath on cable under drivers side carpet is allowing cable to bulge out and is therefore not pushing all the way into P. If you can manually push the shifter on the tranny further foward and into P from underneath, it is definitely shifter cable. Use the ebrake and/or chocks... if it's not in P, it's not in P.

 

[AuroraGirl]

4L80e. Shifter cable is not fully engaging P on the side of tranny?? My guess is rusted sheath on cable under drivers side carpet is allowing cable to bulge out and is therefore not pushing all the way into P. If you can manually push the shifter on the tranny further foward and into P from underneath, it is definitely shifter cable. Use the ebrake and/or chocks... if it's not in P, it's not in P.

my 96 4l60e had the sheath worn from the improper routing by PO when did a floor pan repair. the line cut acoss and was loose so feet traffic and vibrations worn through, then when shifting the cable would "kink" because it was of course a natural curve too and basically couldn t ever shift past a place oine direction well.

 

[east302]

Dropped dash

When you let the column down, you might have kinked or broken the shift cable where it attaches along the steering column. I did that once, it was a bit irritating.

 

[JDurks2]

I'll have to wait a few days to dive back into it. I did drop the steering column to drop the dash for an hvac repair. I probably at least have something kinked.