interior paint suggestions

[ryan243]

i bought a 1990 std cab 2wd silverado , and it was missing most of the interior so i have been piecing it together from bone yards and ebay it was originally blue but is very faded and nothing matches so i am going to change everything to black with grey accents in door panels and trim. which clothe and viny paint or dye is better the duplicolor stuff or the sem? any opinions appreciated. i used the duplicolor blue on my international scout in the past and quality was good , but didnt like the color

 

[magimerlin]

The SEM by far is the better product. It's a little more usually but gives a better and more durable finish.


Sent from what use to be a great country.

 

[sewlow]

My '98 had a stripped down plain-jane interior when I got it. I hunted down all the plastic pieces from the up-scale & the early trucks (Which came with all the plastic trim. GM cheaped out on the later models.)
The pieces I found came from several different trucks, in several different colors. You'd never know unless I told you. (You know now! LOL!)
This is the procedure I used.
I recommend SEM.

This my interior in my '98. Don't look at the seats (!) Those are reupholstered. What this pic is for is to show the back panel under the rear window. It used to be dark blue, dyed to factory color. In the pic, the 'B' pillar pieces are not yet installed, but they were tan. They came out the same as the back panel.

You must be registered for see images attach

Dye is NOT paint.
The dye does not sit on top of the plastic, like a paint. It soaks INTO the plastic.
The key to properly dying plastic or vinyl is prep. I can't emphasize this enough!
I like to scrub down whatever is being dyed with a 10% vinegar/water solution first. This will remove the oils & ground in dirt.
Once they're dry (next day), I'll wash 'em down again, with T.S.P. (Tri-Sodium Phosphate) Paint/Home improvement stores will have this. House painters use this to neutralize oils from hands around light switches & stuff. Comes as a powder. Mix as directed on box. Use a good stiff bristle brush for both of these procedures.
Rinse, rinse, rinse, with cold water. Let sit to dry in the sun, or somewhere warm overnight.
Do not touch anything that is gonna be dyed, after these steps, with bare hands. Use 'throw-away' rubber gloves, or touch only where it won't be seen. The oils in your hands will effect the adhesion of the dye.
Knock down parts to their smallest pieces. Makes for a better finished job, & requires less masking off of pieces not to be dyed.
Hang small parts on coat hangers or wire.
At this point, you can use a product called 'Vinyl Prep'. (SEM product, check their website.)
http://www.semproducts.com/product-catalog/prep-products/vinyl-prep/
This works, too.
http://www.semproducts.com/product-catalog/prep-products/sand-free/
Both are available @ O'Rielly's.
This softens up the first layer of plastic. The dye will react with this, such as a catalyst for fiberglass. It allows the dye to soak in, then it 'kicks' to make the plastic hard once again. The dye is sprayed on while the vinyl prep is wet.
Several light coats are better than a couple of heavy ones. Drips will NOT be able to be sanded out.
Let dry for at least a day before handling.
Any rough texture can be knocked down after a few days (Want to make sure that the dye has cured well) with a bit of newspaper, which is the equal to about 4000 grit sandpaper. Don't have to rub, just a nice easy wipe! Follow that with some 'interior detailer' to give a nice semi-gloss finish.
Good luck.

 

[ryan243]

My '98 had a stripped down plain-jane interior when I got it. I hunted down all the plastic pieces from the up-scale & the early trucks (Which came with all the plastic trim. GM cheaped out on the later models.)
The pieces I found came from several different trucks, in several different colors. You'd never know unless I told you. (You know now! LOL!)
This is the procedure I used.
I recommend SEM.

This my interior in my '98. Don't look at the seats (!) Those are reupholstered. What this pic is for is to show the back panel under the rear window. It used to be dark blue, dyed to factory color. In the pic, the 'B' pillar pieces are not yet installed, but they were tan. They came out the same as the back panel.

You must be registered for see images attach

Dye is NOT paint.
The dye does not sit on top of the plastic, like a paint. It soaks INTO the plastic.
The key to properly dying plastic or vinyl is prep. I can't emphasize this enough!
I like to scrub down whatever is being dyed with a 10% vinegar/water solution first. This will remove the oils & ground in dirt.
Once they're dry (next day), I'll wash 'em down again, with T.S.P. (Tri-Sodium Phosphate) Paint/Home improvement stores will have this. House painters use this to neutralize oils from hands around light switches & stuff. Comes as a powder. Mix as directed on box. Use a good stiff bristle brush for both of these procedures.
Rinse, rinse, rinse, with cold water. Let sit to dry in the sun, or somewhere warm overnight.
Do not touch anything that is gonna be dyed, after these steps, with bare hands. Use 'throw-away' rubber gloves, or touch only where it won't be seen. The oils in your hands will effect the adhesion of the dye.
Knock down parts to their smallest pieces. Makes for a better finished job, & requires less masking off of pieces not to be dyed.
Hang small parts on coat hangers or wire.
At this point, you can use a product called 'Vinyl Prep'. (SEM product, check their website.)
http://www.semproducts.com/product-catalog/prep-products/vinyl-prep/
This works, too.
http://www.semproducts.com/product-catalog/prep-products/sand-free/
Both are available @ O'Rielly's.
This softens up the first layer of plastic. The dye will react with this, such as a catalyst for fiberglass. It allows the dye to soak in, then it 'kicks' to make the plastic hard once again. The dye is sprayed on while the vinyl prep is wet.
Several light coats are better than a couple of heavy ones. Drips will NOT be able to be sanded out.
Let dry for at least a day before handling.
Any rough texture can be knocked down after a few days (Want to make sure that the dye has cured well) with a bit of newspaper, which is the equal to about 4000 grit sandpaper. Don't have to rub, just a nice easy wipe! Follow that with some 'interior detailer' to give a nice semi-gloss finish.
Good luck.

awesome info ! thanks, any input on using it on fabric, like the inserts on the door panel ? or should i just use diff fabric u think? i am just going to use as seat cover for my bench seat

 

[sewlow]

Don't like dying fabric. Auto stuff is usually a man-made textile, & it's hard to get it to take the dye so that it's presentable. It usually ends up being hard & crispy with a tendency to flake off. The door panel inserts are fairly easy to re-&-re & recover with some new fabric.

 

[ryan243]

thats what i figured , thanks. now i just need to find a armrest that doesent cost an arm and leg haha

 

[DR CHOP]

sem is the best. Like sewlow said, prep,prep,prep.