I need AC! Help!

[Ken K]

Just joking for the most part. But while the thought of removing a dash is a 4 day job, remove most all of the bolts, lift up on right side, then place a length of 2X4 under it.
I had a lady with a new one who claimed to smell antifreeze, but the heater core was dry. My service manager said to do it anyways. So, it came into the dealer a few days later, removed most all of the fasteners, lifted the right side only and stuck my 2X4 under it to hold it up, then went to work.
As stupid as most salesmen are, one came thur the door and saw the inside tore up. He asked; "What s wrong with this one?", I told him that I drop a quarter down the defrost vent and was looking for it". He bought it and walked away

 

[VortecBurb]

Very interesting.... Got pics of the cuts?
Wonder if that could be done to access the flapping blend doors, etc.....???

here is a video that gave me the idea similar location shape I didn't use the saw

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Here is another video of a 96-99 series suburban that shows alot of what the HVAC looks like
So you can pause it and see the shape

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[David Barry]

Hey guys just recently bought my 95 z71 and I recharged the AC, it was blowing cool air while the charge. Three hours later I get in and take off and nothing but hot air comes out again :/ what do I check for next?

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What was the pretty penny you paid for that red beauty?

 

[Tony Almaraz]

What was the pretty penny you paid for that red beauty?

$3800

 

[Ken K]

After research in my area, Advanced Auto sells "Interdynamics" A/C Pro universal leak dye for R12 / R143a UV in 1 oz bottle. This will do 4 vehicles as 1/4 oz is required. The bottle is marked on the side so add into a low pressure hose disconnected or into the accumulator. Take your R134a charge kit and add two 12 oz cans of R134a.
It is always best to evacuate the system, block off, check for holding vacuum...but most people don't have all of this equipment. You can salvage a seal compressor from an old fridge and add a saddle joint fitting.

Either way, after running and experiencing the same issue, now, a bright "Yellow" dye will show up where ever your leak is. Could be compressor front seal so look on bottom next to compressor, but hose, shine UV light thru grill to check the condenser or drain on bottom of evaporator housing at the drain. Anywhere, even the ends of hoses where the crimp is.

Yes, have a UV flash light is best as they sell them with either UV "LED's" or UV lens over "LED's to work ok. Take the UV light out of the bedroom in front of your ELVIS or JIMMY HENDRIX poster, then go to garage.

Unless you have an electronic leak detector, then UV dye is best. GM start in 2000, putting UV dye in a pack to dissolve with PAG oil and circulates thru the system.

As a retired ASE Master Tech, I have two sets go gauges, 3 different vacuum pumps, oil injection kit, all kinds of stuff. But after fixing everyone in our family, I ran out of the ACDelco bottles of A/C leak dye UV type, and is no longer sold. I had 10 of these bottles, but like time, where does it all go? Still got 10 bottle of PAG oil 40, 100, 125VS or measured in "Centi-Strokes". (Sorry Engineering Term for A/C Viscosity)

Best of luck but just do not over charge the system. Look for the "Yellow" Harrison sticker. Remember to convert pounds into ounces as two 12 oz cans = 1.4 pounds. Don't know what your system holds.

R134a holds more latent heat per pound than R12. But R12 boils off at a lower temp. So with R134a, it takes less in each system to work. On a day with 88 degrees F, I got my system to hit 34*F, shut of and came on at 42*F. Mine had TXV, not CCOT system like yours.

Yours will vary!

 

[dkknaebel]

I got a very good tip on the blender door that flaps that you can only get to if you drop the dash. Mine is shot so my newly fixed ac just blows out of everything. Super cold on my feet for sure! So a former Master Mech from GM asked my hubby if we were keeping my truck for forever and he was like yeah, she ain't getting rid of it. He said take the one screw out that you can get to and then take a pry bar and bust off the other one. Put the new blender door in there with the screw you can reach and some epoxy on the other side. He said more than likely the new one will stay in place with the gear alone but the epoxy is a fail safe. Then when it quits, do the same process. Viola!

 

[Ken K]

He said take the one screw out that you can get to and then take a pry bar and bust off the other one. Put the new blender door in there with the screw you can reach and some epoxy on the other side. He said more than likely the new one will stay in place with the gear alone but the epoxy is a fail safe.

What is going on here? Seriously, the A/C works, hand get cold on low pressure line while operating? Dude says to bend & epoxy? WTH.
Blend doors move to direct air thru the heater core or around it, so hot or cold, not floor to feet.
You are not removing the "Whole" dash, but you do have to replace the blend door motor as long as it is not jammed due to debris!

Mode changes from floor to dash to defrost. Max air means outside air is blocked off. Blend door by-passes heater core as hot coolant moves thru it as the engine is running and warm to hot. CJ2 HVAC?

I could never bring myself to rig a system while fixing it correctly is best, unless you are on your way to the junk yard in a few months.

Un-thread this one / You may not need much heat in Florida, but this is like wrapping teflon tape on a leaking pinion seal for a keeper. Seen it!

 

[JackWagon92]

I made sure not to cut through the bottom and I sealed the sides back up with RTV and it doesn't leak and I live in the south and it is crazy humid. I don't plan on ever selling the suburban but yea I would show em if I'm able. I just didn't have 4 weekends to spare to take out the dash or room for all the parts. There's a video of a guy on youtube that did the same thing on an earlier model and another video of a guy that did the whole dash removal process and I just watched that to pickup on where it was located and how it was fastened. For the time it saved me I figured it was worth the risk. I know you can cut out for the blend doors on the Grand Cherokees but I haven't had to do mine yet.

Just a fyi, the grand Cherokee is one of the easiest dashes to remove. Everything stays in the dash. Just remove the bolts and unplug the bulkhead connectors and yard it out. Start to finish in an afternoon.
Ok, enough about jeeps.