How to wire dual alternators.

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Duallylife

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I have a 93 k3500 that I'm putting dual alternators in. Now for the guys who are going to ask "why? Just get a big single" I have tried, I tried OEM, juiced up aftermarket, and had some built over the years. I just find when they get hot they have a hard time keeping up, then eventually burn out. And at 400$+ for aftermarket or built here by a guy a piece every year or two it gets expensive. I want low RPM output, big singles are good at higher RPM's.

I want this because I use it for plowing and sanding, so there is heavy draws. Typically while I'm plowing the plow it self is a 200amp motor, plus alot of time while I'm plowing I also have my sander on, so another 100 amp? I'm not sure what that motor is. All of my strobe lights, at night all my marker lights, headlights, and light bars. Sometimes I'm using 4wd which draws alot. Heater on, which also draws alot. Sometimes whipers or other misc stuff, of course the usual stuff you know, radio (with a sub), phone charger etc. Alot of times I have to turn stuff off with OEM alternators or it falls too low. Even juiced up ones sometimes, or they get very hot. It's not wiring, as I have re wired most of the lights 2 years ago. And I clean all my connections, grounds positives etc once a year. On the batteries, alternator frame body etc. Also has dual 1,200 cranking amp batteries, less then 2 years old and I test them once a year. I have always had this issue with my GMT400's, even my square bodies. I have had this truck about 12 years, always had this issue just dealt with it. It did help after I rewired the truck though haha. I also plan to do the "big 3 upgrade" on the wires.

My question is, how do I wire it up? Right now my stock alt reads and charges the passenger side battery first, the second battery just adds reserve, (it isn't directly hooked to the alternator) So I would like to hook the second alt to that battery, one alt on each battery. Can I do this? I should just be able to run a wire from the back of the charging stud on the alt to the second battery? What do I do for the exciter wire? Where do I run that to? If I can separate it from the passenger side battery so it reads the drivers side that would be great. Or do I need to splice them together?
 

Nick_R_23

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I started this thread 12 years ago, which might have some useful information for you:


For your second alternator, you can jump the exciter wire to the output stud, or wire in a resistor depending on which pin you use on the plug. You can have both alternators charging both batteries, all in the same circuit, or you can keep each battery and alternator isolated and tie them together with a high amp switch or battery isolator, so they’re only connected when you want. I have a wiring diagram posted that shows how this is done.
 

Duallylife

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I started this thread 12 years ago, which might have some useful information for you:


For your second alternator, you can jump the exciter wire to the output stud, or wire in a resistor depending on which pin you use on the plug. You can have both alternators charging both batteries, all in the same circuit, or you can keep each battery and alternator isolated and tie them together with a high amp switch or battery isolator, so they’re only connected when you want. I have a wiring diagram posted that shows how this is done.
The batteries are already hooked together, so I'll keep it that way. I just want one alternator to read one battery and the other alternator to read the other battery, that way one battery isn't charging off another battery, makes it stay at proper voltage better and quicker. I'll be running the factory 1 wire plug style alternator. So I can take the exciter wire on my new alt and just run it to the stud on the back that runs to my battery?
 

Nick_R_23

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That’s really not possible if both batteries are connected together, the system is all connected at that point. If both alternators are working properly, they’ll maintain system voltage like normal, just with more amps available.

As far as your new alternator (I’m assuming you’re using CS130’s?), you’ll have to research which pin allows one-wire operation. I know that one pin can just be jumped to the rear stud, but another pin wants to see a resistor/idiot light in-line to work properly.
 

Duallylife

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That’s really not possible if both batteries are connected together, the system is all connected at that point. If both alternators are working properly, they’ll maintain system voltage like normal, just with more amps available.

As far as your new alternator (I’m assuming you’re using CS130’s?), you’ll have to research which pin allows one-wire operation. I know that one pin can just be jumped to the rear stud, but another pin wants to see a resistor/idiot light in-line to work properly.
I'm not sure which part number it is, just know they are oem, other then the one I'm putting In I just get them from scrap yards most times and get them freshened up, cheaper that way. I think you're thinking of the 96+ ones? When they switched to OBDII, those had multiple wires for the plug, mine just has 1. In total my alternator only has 2 wires for everything. 1 small one on the plug, then one big one on the charging stud. If I jump the exciter wire to the charging stud obviously it can read when the voltage drops below the minimal so it will "kick the alternator on" but then once it starts charging won't it read a higher voltage (ie 14volts instead of let's say minimal 12.8?) So it will then think it's fully charged and shut off? Basically constantly cycling on and off not really charging?

Sorry for so many questions, just trying to learn, and don't want to do this wrong and either waste my time because it doesn't charge, or burn up alternators, or burn my truck down because it's wrong haha. Had an alternator regulator go bad last winter, started pushing such high voltage non stop it boiled my battery... Not fun
 

RichLo

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I have that exact setup on my plow truck also. 2 batteries and 2 alternators. I have both of my batteries connected in parallel like yours and the second alternator is a simple GM 1-wire connected directly to the positive on the first battery.

The 1-wire doesn't excite until you rev it up a bit but I normally push snow around 2k rpm anyway so both are charging for 90% of the time. I also hooked up inline Ampere gauges for both alternators so I can see their output.

I also have a dual battery selector/cutoff switch in the cab so when the truck is off they are not draining each other trying to match voltages
 

Frank Enstein

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BTW
Powermaster alternators use a "Wye" winding rather than the cheaper and easier "Delta" windings giving them much greater output at idle. A Summit 100 amp one wire 10si alternator (from 25 years ago) produced 20 amps @ idle where the Powermaster 100 amp made 70 @ idle in the same era. Other brands may use a Wye winding but I don't know this for a fact. I learned this from the Powermaster rep.
 

GoToGuy

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I'd like to know what kind, make of snowplow? How do you control it, like up down, left right, tilt? The sander is electric motor powered? These motors that are high load, high draw, what do the id tags say on amp draw? I'm doing some spark math. Thanks
 

GoToGuy

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I have that exact setup on my plow truck also. 2 batteries and 2 alternators. I have both of my batteries connected in parallel like yours and the second alternator is a simple GM 1-wire connected directly to the positive on the first battery.

The 1-wire doesn't excite until you rev it up a bit but I normally push snow around 2k rpm anyway so both are charging for 90% of the time. I also hooked up inline Ampere gauges for both alternators so I can see their output.

I also have a dual battery selector/cutoff switch in the cab so when the truck is off they are not draining each other trying to match voltages
Can you explain the " not draining, matching voltage " statement idea? I'm not familiar with that...
 
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