[TUTORIAL]
Tools:
3/8" drive ratchet
3/8" drive SAE socket set (must include 3/8" to 5/8" minimum, up to 1" with 1/2" drive to 1 1/8" is ideal)
3/8" torque wrench, 10lbft-80lbft
10" or 12" adjustable wrench
A selection of flat blade screwdrivers
A seal pick (small flat blade screwdriver works too)
An 1/8" pin punch
A 1/4" pin punch
External snap ring pliers with around 1" of jaw opening (if you have EVO)
Hammers, specifically a ball pein and small dead blow
A large plastic bowl, for cleaning internal parts
A larger container (cutoff 5 gallon bucket, turkey roasting pan) for cleaning dirty, external parts
Wire brush (brass)
Arbor press (optional) - for compressing the rear cover of the pump. A large, 12" C-clamp or a buddy leaning on a hammer handle works too.
A (reasonably clean) workspace, preferably a table.
A 4" PVC sewer pipe coupler to hold the pump while you assemble it.
A smartphone or digital camera - Take pictures of everything! This is good practice and can be the difference between a job well done and a job done twice!
Supplies:
1 Gallon Odorless Mineral Spirits
2 quarts power steering fluid
1 Scotchbrite pad (red or brown)
4 cans brake parts cleaner
1 roll lint free shop towels (cut up old t-shirts work well, too)
1 0.5mL tube of Loctite 545
Parts:
Power Steering Pump Rebuild Kit (Gates 350390 used here)
Dorman 926-049 Steering Bypass Tube (replaces EVO valve and fitting)
Procedure:
**Obligatory Safety Disclaimer**
Safety glasses and nitrile gloves should be considered bare minimum safety gear for this operation. Mineral spirits and brake clean will chew up your hands and skin, and can cause all manner of skin diseases and cancers from repeated contact. Power steering fluid is no different. You'll see my gloved hands at various points in this procedure for that very reason. These chemicals also don't help your vision should they find their way into your eyes. That goes double for flying bits of debris, clips, and springs. Wear your safety glasses!
**End Obligatory Safety Disclaimer**
This should go without saying, but you must begin by removing the pump from the vehicle. That process is not detailed herein, and is left to the mechanic to do the necessary. Once the pump is separated, you should have this:
A greasy, well worn piece of automotive history that has been seeping fluid since the (second) Bush administration. Take the larger of your two containers and pour about a quart of mineral spirits into it. Remove the bracket from the front of the pump, and the bracket held on by nuts at the rear of the pump, and place them in the mineral spirits to soak. On the back side of the pump, if you have EVO, there is a solenoid retained by two separate snap rings. Remove the snap rings, and the solenoid should slide off the valve like so:
**The snap ring requiring pliers is not pictured, as it split in two and flew off to parts unknown.. safety glasses, folks!**
Now remove the valve from the pump using the adjustable wrench, a properly fitting socket (1 1/8" deep socket, if you have it), or if all else fails, a hammer and chisel. If you DO NOT have EVO there will be a standard screw-in power steering fitting in its place, which is easily unscrewed. Take care here, as the pressure control valve is behind this fitting and under spring pressure. Once the rear fitting is removed, you'll have this:
If you are using the Dorman bypass kit or similar, the valve and adapter can be discarded. While sitting on your work surface, tilt the pump on its back. The pressure control valve and spring should fall out of the pump. Put a couple of inches of mineral spirits in your smaller bowl and put the valve and spring in the bowl to soak. Continue by removing the two studs from the rear of the pump, as shown:
Take note of the location of each stud. Remove them and place them in the larger container. Now pick the pump up by the shaft and, holding it over the work table, tap the sheet metal reservoir with the soft-faced hammer. It should fall off with relative ease. Once apart, put the reservoir in the larger container. You should be left with this:
The fuzzy looking disc that you see at the 1:30ish position of the pump is a magnet. A very, very dirty magnet. You should only find fine, powdered metal bits on this magnet if all is well. If you find chunks, you're probably not going to be salvaging this pump. Remove the magnet and wrap it in a t-shirt or paper towel, and set it aside. Use the seal pick to remove the three off white colored o-rings seen in the picture and discard.
Tools:
3/8" drive ratchet
3/8" drive SAE socket set (must include 3/8" to 5/8" minimum, up to 1" with 1/2" drive to 1 1/8" is ideal)
3/8" torque wrench, 10lbft-80lbft
10" or 12" adjustable wrench
A selection of flat blade screwdrivers
A seal pick (small flat blade screwdriver works too)
An 1/8" pin punch
A 1/4" pin punch
External snap ring pliers with around 1" of jaw opening (if you have EVO)
Hammers, specifically a ball pein and small dead blow
A large plastic bowl, for cleaning internal parts
A larger container (cutoff 5 gallon bucket, turkey roasting pan) for cleaning dirty, external parts
Wire brush (brass)
Arbor press (optional) - for compressing the rear cover of the pump. A large, 12" C-clamp or a buddy leaning on a hammer handle works too.
A (reasonably clean) workspace, preferably a table.
A 4" PVC sewer pipe coupler to hold the pump while you assemble it.
A smartphone or digital camera - Take pictures of everything! This is good practice and can be the difference between a job well done and a job done twice!
Supplies:
1 Gallon Odorless Mineral Spirits
2 quarts power steering fluid
1 Scotchbrite pad (red or brown)
4 cans brake parts cleaner
1 roll lint free shop towels (cut up old t-shirts work well, too)
1 0.5mL tube of Loctite 545
Parts:
Power Steering Pump Rebuild Kit (Gates 350390 used here)
Dorman 926-049 Steering Bypass Tube (replaces EVO valve and fitting)
Procedure:
**Obligatory Safety Disclaimer**
Safety glasses and nitrile gloves should be considered bare minimum safety gear for this operation. Mineral spirits and brake clean will chew up your hands and skin, and can cause all manner of skin diseases and cancers from repeated contact. Power steering fluid is no different. You'll see my gloved hands at various points in this procedure for that very reason. These chemicals also don't help your vision should they find their way into your eyes. That goes double for flying bits of debris, clips, and springs. Wear your safety glasses!
**End Obligatory Safety Disclaimer**
This should go without saying, but you must begin by removing the pump from the vehicle. That process is not detailed herein, and is left to the mechanic to do the necessary. Once the pump is separated, you should have this:
You must be registered for see images attach
A greasy, well worn piece of automotive history that has been seeping fluid since the (second) Bush administration. Take the larger of your two containers and pour about a quart of mineral spirits into it. Remove the bracket from the front of the pump, and the bracket held on by nuts at the rear of the pump, and place them in the mineral spirits to soak. On the back side of the pump, if you have EVO, there is a solenoid retained by two separate snap rings. Remove the snap rings, and the solenoid should slide off the valve like so:
You must be registered for see images attach
**The snap ring requiring pliers is not pictured, as it split in two and flew off to parts unknown.. safety glasses, folks!**
Now remove the valve from the pump using the adjustable wrench, a properly fitting socket (1 1/8" deep socket, if you have it), or if all else fails, a hammer and chisel. If you DO NOT have EVO there will be a standard screw-in power steering fitting in its place, which is easily unscrewed. Take care here, as the pressure control valve is behind this fitting and under spring pressure. Once the rear fitting is removed, you'll have this:
You must be registered for see images attach
If you are using the Dorman bypass kit or similar, the valve and adapter can be discarded. While sitting on your work surface, tilt the pump on its back. The pressure control valve and spring should fall out of the pump. Put a couple of inches of mineral spirits in your smaller bowl and put the valve and spring in the bowl to soak. Continue by removing the two studs from the rear of the pump, as shown:
You must be registered for see images attach
Take note of the location of each stud. Remove them and place them in the larger container. Now pick the pump up by the shaft and, holding it over the work table, tap the sheet metal reservoir with the soft-faced hammer. It should fall off with relative ease. Once apart, put the reservoir in the larger container. You should be left with this:
You must be registered for see images attach
The fuzzy looking disc that you see at the 1:30ish position of the pump is a magnet. A very, very dirty magnet. You should only find fine, powdered metal bits on this magnet if all is well. If you find chunks, you're probably not going to be salvaging this pump. Remove the magnet and wrap it in a t-shirt or paper towel, and set it aside. Use the seal pick to remove the three off white colored o-rings seen in the picture and discard.
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