GMT400 4L60e to T56 swap write up *dialup warning*

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KennyB01

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i got a tri ax by steeda a while back for the 03-04 cobra T56 form a trade. had a guy at work router the holes sloted to center it with the bolt patter of the inspection cover bolt pattern and it seems to work good. the clutch set up is off of ebay from a store called gripforce who is doing business in CA. under the name speed solutions international INC. if anyone knows a good alternitive let me know. i still have all the valeo set up that was stock that has not even been used. maybe that would be better, i do not now much about the good stuff since i have never tried nothing. and as far as gears i have a ss 454 rear out of a 92 that has 411 or 410, i lucked up on that, a guy had it listed on craigslist for $150.00, it has the eaton gov. lock which i will stick with untill i can plain on some thing else, it is tight so i feel good about it. i won't to do either the true trac or the E lock with either 456's or 488's but i am not rushing in too much to quick right now.
 

Aloicious

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right on, your clutch setup may be just fine, I've never used one of those, but I don't put much stock in cheap ebay products most of the time. if you want a less expensive option, I'd recommend using your valeo PP, and getting whatever clutch disc you want, I've heard good things about the centerforce dual friction disc. or just try the 'grip force' one, I mean you already have it, either way you go, just let us know how it works.

4.10's will be pretty good, definantly good enough to use for however long you need. I really like my 4.88's I have, but I may use slightly larger tires on my next tire change, I can cruise at 65 at around 2k, but around 75-80 I'm around 2300, so with slightly larger tires, I could lower that just a little bit. I'm thinking 265/70R15's compared to my current 235/75R15.
 

KennyB01

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i am running 265/75/15's, they are about 30". i think i will go with the centerforce you suggested, i have not bought the ones off ebay yet. them RPM's sounds about compatible to what my truck runs. if you do the math and compare the final gear ratio's of both (stock to what i is now) the 488's is very close.
 

Aloicious

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yeah, with 4.10's you'll be a bit lower, 6th may be difficult to use in any incline, like my 3.73's and 28.8" tires. but at least its still usable, you will be fine until you can upgrade at a later date.
 

KennyB01

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started changing the pedal assy. out. boy what a project not a walk in the park to say the least, i went ahead and pulled my steringcolum which i think now i could have worked around it. i have to take the brake booster off so that i can get my holes drilled. Aloicious, how did you do to get that lock off of the brake pedal that holds the rod from the brake booster? i have not messed with it yet it got dark but i did look at it and it looked strange. thanks
 

Aloicious

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its a thin little metal clip on there that holds the booster pushrod and brake pedal switch on there. I ended up breaking the little clip off, and just putting a new one on when I put the pedal back in. there is a way to get it off without breaking it, but I haven't had it off since so I can't tell you for sure.

its really tight up in there, I just worked around the steering column, I didn't have a problem with the booster. and I later converted to hydroboost. so thats not even an issue anymore.
 

KennyB01

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got the clutch pedal assy. and narow break pedal in. if i had not took out the steringcolum it would not have been that bad going back togeather. other than that it is pretty much staight foward, this was the part i have not been looking foward to. but it is a done deal now. a couple of changes i have noticed between the 96-99 in the assy.'s is on the clutch pedal in stead of a bolt going through to hold the pedal in place, they have spring loaded pins that push in on both sides and push in to place and they push out once they get in place. and the backet has no switch's on them, the switch's is a tube that the clutch rod goes through. and the clutch master cylinder kinda turns and locks in place instead of using the two bolts from the back that go through the firwall. it will be at least a month before i can move anymore foward with the project unless something comes up and i will have time.
 

Aloicious

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sounds good, yeah I did the same thing, I had the clutch pedal in there for probably a month or 2 before I had the T56 in...I had to go get it inspected for registration durring that time, and I had to explain to the guy why there was a non-functional clutch pedal in there. :D
 

90'rado

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Here's a pic of the custom 40 tooth reluctor I'm running. This would be one way to get the VSS working on a TBI w/ a T56.

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I didn't post this somewhere else already did I? I can't remember.
 

Aloicious

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looks good, did you have to make that yourself?
 
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