Gear selector silly question

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Dariusz Salomon

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Before you go any further

It does look awkward - and chances are the pigtail leads to the outside - not the middle - of the truck.
Before you go further, are you absolutely certain there is no fuel whatsoever at the test port?

If your pump is 'stuck', might it be possible to shift it by pressuring (carefully!) through its delivery line? (I'm assuming a vane type pump). If that worked, then it might identify the pump as culprit and save a lot of time chasing wiring which is OK. And save the amount of time you have fuel stored in jerricans while waiting for a new pump to arrive.

If you were closer, I'd happily come over and let you syphon your full tank into my 'Burb's tank. Really, I'd not mind at all.
Lol-I bet you wouldn't.
 

Dariusz Salomon

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Sorted(hopefully). Looks like a wire from ECM to relay-green/white one-was knockered-I spliced in the killswitch into this one-but is in generally poorish condition,so soon I will replace it. For everyone in future-make sure you measure those currents on relay as a first step. Here's the diagram of wiring to a pump. From VCM it's the first pin on the right(smallest,24 pin connector-BLACK)-pin 1 going to pin 85 on relay. Thanks to all for suggestions-as always everyone is helpful.
 

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Pinger

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Oh wow! How sweet is it when you find a dodgy wire that saves you dropping a full tank?!!!
Now you know why I was hitting you so hard about checking wiring first. Good result - you must be much relieved.
 

Ed Hardy

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Maybe ask from the opposite direction - what exact symptom is your truck having?

Richard
I have no pulse at injectors/ for injectors. I made her fire up the other night by grounding out the blue wire on the injector connectors. She fired up on her own, I did not have to assist her and spoonfeed her fuel. she only ran for a minute and then popped the breaker/fuse. Ive bought yet another brain this one supposedly completely refurbished I have to change over my prom chip over into it I’m waiting on an extraction tool, to be here tomorrow. That’s why I stand I traced and owned and tested everywhere I get a hold of going to the ECM the only wire seems to be grounding is the gray wire. And you’re supposed to be correct? I got this one that’s the one that goes to the fuel tank and the oil fuel safety switch. So that’s where I stand. just over a year ago, that was the first time I’ve heard her run on her own. That when it comes to pull Egyptian put them back in I mean I know a shower and probably Katie beard it kind of makes me nervous and say something I’ve never attempted before especially home shopping I want to run again ha
Hook up a fuel pressure gauge and check for pressure when it cranks, but not fire up.
I have gauges on the fuel oil safety switch and I have a gauge installed in fuel supply line at mounted to the backside of the throttle body. I can get 30 psi just cranking in oil pressure and I get up to 15 psi cranking on the fuel gauge.
 

Ed Hardy

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Hook up a fuel pressure gauge and check for pressure when it cranks, but not fire up.
There is no pulse I cannot get this damn thing to pulse. I tried faking it out by grounding it out. She will start if I run a wire from the battery negative to the Data side of the injectors the blue and green and she will start when I connect those two gator clips. But like I said only for a minute. During the pulse they don't stay grounded long enough to pop. as it does when they are grounded straight out.
 

Ruff Idol

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Don't know if this helps, but I had this EXACT problem in my 99 Explorer. Turned out to be the shift cable improperly adjusted (little plastic toothed wheel adjustment behind the instrument cluster bezel) so the improper tension was causing the indicator to land between park & reverse instead of on park. Until I adjusted, the truck could only be started in neutral or if I really pushed on the shifter to line up the indicator on the P.
 
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