Gear selector silly question

[Dariusz Salomon]

Mine, if it sits a while, or overnight, starts faster if we prime it a few seconds. I'm sure the injection parts are all original, at 211K. We bought the truck with 130K on it and I haven't replaced anything up there.....
Most of the hot slow crank issues it was having got fixed with the new starter and battery. Amazes me how it decided to quit, right there in the shop!

Starter,fuel filter,battery all new or under 2k miles. Spider,injectors I believe original but it all pinpoints to pump/wiring(more wiring). One question-where is the pump grounded to? It goes as I understand via the wire from pigtail to fusebox and then where? Is there a separate ground maybe? We talkin Tahoe so burb and silverados are in different places-of all tahoe's tank position is most awkward-even if(and that's a big if as I'm not keen on that sort of modifications,tho I do see the advantage the gice) I'd like to make a "service hatch".

 

[stutaeng]

The starters are grounded to the engine block, via the aluminum starter housing.

 

[Pinger]

One question-where is the pump grounded to? It goes as I understand via the wire from pigtail to fusebox and then where? Is there a separate ground maybe?

Haynes just shows it going to ground but as you say, it is in the harness that goes back toward the fuse box. It is a black and white wire if you can find it entering the fuse box (or in its vicinity) you should be able to check it.
It was the ground wire that was bad on mine.

We talkin Tahoe so burb and silverados are in different places-of all tahoe's tank position is most awkward

Have you tried groping above the tank? There has to be a clearance space between the top of the pump and the bodywork. That's how I found the pigtail on mine.
If you can get it in your hand just to wiggle it and see if you can regain contact, it would be confirmation that the fault is there. If you can pull it clear enough to work on, it'd save you dropping the tank or cutting holes.

 

[Dariusz Salomon]

Haynes just shows it going to ground but as you say, it is in the harness that goes back toward the fuse box. It is a black and white wire if you can find it entering the fuse box (or in its vicinity) you should be able to check it.
It was the ground wire that was bad on mine.


Have you tried groping above the tank? There has to be a clearance space between the top of the pump and the bodywork. That's how I found the pigtail on mine.
If you can get it in your hand just to wiggle it and see if you can regain contact, it would be confirmation that the fault is there. If you can pull it clear enough to work on, it'd save you dropping the tank or cutting holes.

I was thinkin about it but it may not be easy-tank on mine is on driver's side and, looking at the video, very well covered. I'm about to go out there and start diggin.

 

[454cid]

I was thinkin about it but it may not be easy-tank on mine is on driver's side and, looking at the video, very well covered. I'm about to go out there and start diggin.

If it won't start/prime, use a rubber hammer or a piece of wood and pound on the bottom of the tank as close to directly under the pump as possible and try the key again.

 

[Pinger]

I was thinkin about it but it may not be easy-tank on mine is on driver's side and, looking at the video, very well covered. I'm about to go out there and start diggin.

Think how pissed off you'll be if you drop the tank then realise the pigtail could be reached by hand with the tank in situ.
Get diggin!

Can't save/copy image to post but here >> https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=971468&cc=1352988&pt=6268&jsn=1034
is a pic of a Suburban tank. The pigtail came close enough to the front edge of the tank to be accessible enough for soldering. If your pigtail is the same length....

 

[Dariusz Salomon]

The starters are grounded to the engine block, via the aluminum starter housing.

I was talking about pump not starter but thanks nevertheless.

 

[Dariusz Salomon]

If it won't start/prime, use a rubber hammer or a piece of wood and pound on the bottom of the tank as close to directly under the pump as possible and try the key again.

I did that number of times and seem to have no effect.

 

[Dariusz Salomon]

Haynes just shows it going to ground but as you say, it is in the harness that goes back toward the fuse box. It is a black and white wire if you can find it entering the fuse box (or in its vicinity) you should be able to check it.
It was the ground wire that was bad on mine.


Have you tried groping above the tank? There has to be a clearance space between the top of the pump and the bodywork. That's how I found the pigtail on mine.
If you can get it in your hand just to wiggle it and see if you can regain contact, it would be confirmation that the fault is there. If you can pull it clear enough to work on, it'd save you dropping the tank or cutting holes.

That's the position and screenshot from the clip on removing tank

 

[Pinger]

Before you go any further

That's the position and screenshot from the clip on removing tank

It does look awkward - and chances are the pigtail leads to the outside - not the middle - of the truck.
Before you go further, are you absolutely certain there is no fuel whatsoever at the test port?

If your pump is 'stuck', might it be possible to shift it by pressuring (carefully!) through its delivery line? (I'm assuming a vane type pump). If that worked, then it might identify the pump as culprit and save a lot of time chasing wiring which is OK. And save the amount of time you have fuel stored in jerricans while waiting for a new pump to arrive.

If you were closer, I'd happily come over and let you syphon your full tank into my 'Burb's tank. Really, I'd not mind at all.