Front end overhaul

[big_mike]

I’m about to get my 97’ Z71 back on the road finally and will be rebuilding the front end first. I’ve got some parts in my Summit cart but wanna make sure I’m not missing something.

Moog inner tie rod end (x2)
Moog outter tie rod end (x2)
Moog tie rod sleeves (x2)
Moog pitman arm
Moog idler arm
Moog replacement upper A-arms(x2)
Moog LCA bushing kit (x2)
Moog lower ball joints (x2)

Also after reading a lot of reviews I’m also gonna give those Gabriel MaxControl shocks a try front/rear as well. I have no reason to believe the hubs need replaced as of right now but will if necessary. I will also be doing breaks and getting a new PS pump without the EVO crap.

 

[Bodageta1995]

Get stabilizer bar end like for sure. You will possibly need to cut yours to get them off. I would get the stabilizer bar frame bushings too. End links are a pain to install. I just did my front end. Finished two days ago. You don’t have to do it now but I also relaplaced my CV joint axles for $44 each from rock auto. I also bought timken wheel bearing assys for $103 each from eBay. I had the ABS light on and that fixed it and a roar I had when I turned left. Bearings are a quick change anytime though. Pressing the bushings and ball joints out of the lowers was a huge pain. I would recommend a free standing press or take it somewhere to get it done. I pressed mine in and out with a rental from advance auto. FYI, my Moog stabilizer end links the problem solvers were too long and I took them out. Take photos as you go along. An impact tool really helps especially if you use a rented press. Lower aft bushing is too wide for the autozone press. I had to buy threaded rod and washers and nuts to press in and out. Don’t forget renting the torsion bar preload tool. I sprayed paint on my preload bolts to mark how far to install to get same ride height. Mark and or photograph your cam washers on upper arms before removing so you can semi put it back close enough to drive for an alignment. Good luck. Getting in in and out isn’t bad. Pressing the lower arm bushings and bjs are a total pain. Get a $44 harbor freight electric impact tool if you don’t have a compressor or pneumatic. Money well spent. Jack stands and safe to live another day. Get-R-Done. You will love how it drives when done. Sorry for my long winded answer.

 

[Bodageta1995]

I just wrote a novel to you and it was so long I guess it didn’t post. Get stabilizer bar end links at a minimum. You will likely find it easiest to cut your old ones in half to remove. I just finished last week and I’m full of info.

 

[Bodageta1995]

Moog problem solver stabilizer end links have a cool nut that helps install but the overall were a bit long. I bought a cheaper set at oreilly and pieced a set using some parts of both. If I had to do it again try this. Take both end links off, loosen center bushings and rotate down and insert bolts from upper side.

 

[Bodageta1995]

Pressing Bushings and lowerBJs our of lower control arms is a real pain without a floor press. Feel free to ask any questions as you go along. If it wouldn’t show public I would give you my phone number.

 

[big_mike]

Added the end links to my shopping cart, thanks cause I missed those little guys. Again hubs will be looked over during disassembly and replaced if need be. Luckily my cousin bought tools to rebuild his front end last year and he offered to come help me do mine. Any tools we might need I’ll go rent from Orielly’s.

 

[alpinecrick]

Idler arm bracket (not just the idler arm itself)
Center/Drag Link
Upper ball joints--they wear out faster on my K1500's than the lowers.

The next time I need to replace stabilizer bar links i think I'll try the AC Delco HD from RockAuto.

 

[alpinecrick]

Added the end links to my shopping cart, thanks cause I missed those little guys. Again hubs will be looked over during disassembly and replaced if need be. Luckily my cousin bought tools to rebuild his front end last year and he offered to come help me do mine. Any tools we might need I’ll go rent from Orielly’s.

If you decide to replace the factory upper ball joints, I'm pretty sure the factory rivets are made of Kryptonite. Cobalt drill bits and cutting oil helps a lot........

 

[big_mike]

If you decide to replace the factory upper ball joints, I'm pretty sure the factory rivets are made of Kryptonite. Cobalt drill bits and cutting oil helps a lot........

Not messing with those, replacing the entire arms with new bushings/ball joint installed. Wish I could do the same with lowers but no new units are available.

 

[alpinecrick]

My bad. I didn't read close enough to realize you were replacing with loaded upper A-arms--that's probably the smart way to go about it in the first place!